Copper treatment

[4FordFamily]

So just to be clear, only this brand of pad is what is being referred to that will absorb copper?

I ask as I have some "Imagitarium Filter Pad" pieces in my tank for bacteria surface area. I'll test copper to make sure I maintain levels but I just wanted to understand.





OMG, you just blew my mind... I'm just getting started and am setting up a second QT now for a second batch of fish inc. I know to keep things separate but I bet without this, I'd probably touch both tanks somehow. This isn't even mentioning the DT...

In the case of test kits, are you supposed to have a kit for each QT?

On that subject, is it known how to kill the tomont (or any other at-risk) form or otherwise completely decontaminate equipment to make it safe for use on another tank???

I don’t use test kits, I just use the ammoni alert badge and Hanna checker

 

[Skep18]

I don’t use test kits, I just use the ammoni alert badge and Hanna checker

How do you decontaminate the Hanna vial between tanks?

 

[4FordFamily]

How do you decontaminate the Hanna vial between tanks?

I have more than one. In truth I typically use one QT at a time or two at the same stage of quarantine.

You could also soak in vinegar and air dry the vial.

 

[Skep18]

I have more than one. In truth I typically use one QT at a time or two at the same stage of quarantine.

You could also soak in vinegar and air dry the vial.

Oh my. Lol.

So soaking in vinegar then air dry will kill all stages?

 

[Humblefish]

So soaking in vinegar then air dry will kill all stages?

Yes, air dry for 24 hours with aid of a fan.

 

[Skep18]

Yes, air dry for 24 hours with aid of a fan.

Thanks.

I'm not trying to take over this thread I promise...

But is it necessary to "rinse" the fish in a transfer vessel between going from a copper-treated QT and into a DT to remove copper traces from the fish? I presume the remnant copper would hugely pale in comparison to a large DT but I'm not sure how sensitive the various inverts are to the copper treatment at even low levels.

With that said, I would consider going from post-QT treatment to a second monitoring QT but I'm afraid that would be too many tanks everywhere for me... The air dry for 24hr is the key to killing the parasite, right? There's not "quick turn" method to decontaminate a QT and return it to service as a monitoring QT afterwards?

 

[HotRocks]

Thanks.

I'm not trying to take over this thread I promise...

But is it necessary to "rinse" the fish in a transfer vessel between going from a copper-treated QT and into a DT to remove copper traces from the fish? I presume the remnant copper would hugely pale in comparison to a large DT but I'm not sure how sensitive the various inverts are to the copper treatment at even low levels.

With that said, I would consider going from post-QT treatment to a second monitoring QT but I'm afraid that would be too many tanks everywhere for me... The air dry for 24hr is the key to killing the parasite, right? There's not "quick turn" method to decontaminate a QT and return it to service as a monitoring QT afterwards?

If using a single QT, after 30 days of therapuetic copper. Do large WC and add carbon or cuprisorb to remove the remaining copper. Then observation for an additional 14 days once copper is completely removed. Then transfer to DT.

If using a 2nd sterile QT. You can transfer from copper QT to sterile QT after 14 days of therapuetic copper and then observe for 14 days.

The observation period is very important IMO to he sure you have erradicated parasites.

If you were to transfer a fish directly from a copper tank to a non copper tank. You don't have to worry about the minute amount that would come with the fish.

 

[Skep18]

If using a single QT, after 30 days of therapuetic copper. Do large WC and add carbon or cuprisorb to remove the remaining copper. Then observation for an additional 14 days once copper is completely removed. Then transfer to DT.

If using a 2nd sterile QT. You can transfer from copper QT to sterile QT after 14 days of therapuetic copper and then observe for 14 days.

The observation period is very important IMO to he sure you have erradicated parasites.

If you were to transfer a fish directly from a copper tank to a non copper tank. You don't have to worry about the minute amount that would come with the fish.

Thanks for the info.

In your single QT scenario, would you not have to treat the tank like an invert QT after copper? Even though the equipment started sterilized, in the initial two week period of PraziPro, couldn't an ich parasite drop off the fish and initiate the tomont stage, survive through the copper and reinfect the fish after the copper was removed?

 

[HotRocks]

Thanks for the info.

In your single QT scenario, would you not have to treat the tank like an invert QT after copper? Even though the equipment started sterilized, in the initial two week period of PraziPro, couldn't an ich parasite drop off the fish and initiate the tomont stage, survive through the copper and reinfect the fish after the copper was removed?

I guess I am a bit confused by your question.

Prazipro and copper are two different things.

30 days of therapuetic copper is usually enough time to erradicate ich and velvet. Could you run into a rare strain of ich that could still be present after 30 days? Yes but not likely.

My last round of QT I encountered a nasty gram negative bacterial infection and had to remove copper at the 28 day mark to begin NFG. Still remained parasite free.

I have run several batches of fish through 30 day copper treatment and have never encountered any re-infection after removing copper.

 

[Skep18]

I guess I am a bit confused by your question.

Prazipro and copper are two different things.

30 days of therapuetic copper is usually enough time to erradicate ich and velvet. Could you run into a rare strain of ich that could still be present after 30 days? Yes but not likely.

My last round of QT I encountered a nasty gram negative bacterial infection and had to remove copper at the 28 day mark to begin NFG. Still remained parasite free.

I have run several batches of fish through 30 day copper treatment and have never encountered any re-infection after removing copper.

Yea, I just brought up Prazi as that's a time the QT tank would be exposed to ich without copper present. With the whole 76 days fallow deal, leaving your fish in the exposed tank sans copper in theory could allow it to be reinfected I would think. But I suppose you're saying its very unlikely to encounter an ich strain that remained encysted that long.

Thanks again.

 

[HotRocks]

Yea, I just brought up Prazi as that's a time the QT tank would be exposed to ich without copper present. With the whole 76 days fallow deal, leaving your fish in the exposed tank sans copper in theory could allow it to be reinfected I would think. But I suppose you're saying its very unlikely to encounter an ich strain that remained encysted that long.

Thanks again.

Yeah no problem. I thought that's what you meant. The hope is that any tomont that is releasing free swimmers has finished doing so by the time you remove the copper.

The 14 day observation period is a fine time to treat them with prazi.

Fallow period of 6 weeks or 45 days would most likely erradicate anything unwanted in your tank. I still play it safe and use the 76 day rule for that one strain of ich!

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/coral-invert-quarantine-time-frames.334584/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-copper-works-and-why-it-sometimes-doesnt.255587/

 

[KEITH FERGUSON]

I have a question..... I had velvet wipe out all my fish in a fowlr about 3 weeks ago. Here is my plan, i will be going 6 weeks with no fish in my DT., and also using copperpower at 2.0 ppm. I use the API test kit and to be honest, it is a little difficult to read, so I think by the color chart, I am running slightly higher then 2.0. But with no fish, i'm not worried.

Also in my quarantine tank, that I set up 15 days after I went follow in the D.T. The only thing I'm questioning is I used the same water that was in my D.T, with also a few rocks that were in my sump. 5 days after starting up my quarantine tank I bought a pair of Flame Hawks, and added them to my quarantine tank. As of now everything looks good. I plan on keeping them in the quarantine tank with copper for 30 days.

Does this sound like i'm on the right track, or did I jump the gun in buying the 2 hawks ? Mr impatience here...

 

[Brew12]

I have a question..... I had velvet wipe out all my fish in a fowlr about 3 weeks ago. Here is my plan, i will be going 6 weeks with no fish in my DT., and also using copperpower at 2.0 ppm. I use the API test kit and to be honest, it is a little difficult to read, so I think by the color chart, I am running slightly higher then 2.0. But with no fish, i'm not worried.

Also in my quarantine tank, that I set up 15 days after I went follow in the D.T. The only thing I'm questioning is I used the same water that was in my D.T, with also a few rocks that were in my sump. 5 days after starting up my quarantine tank I bought a pair of Flame Hawks, and added them to my quarantine tank. As of now everything looks good. I plan on keeping them in the quarantine tank with copper for 30 days.

Does this sound like i'm on the right track, or did I jump the gun in buying the 2 hawks ? Mr impatience here...

Since you are treating your DT with copper, it will be just fine. In fact, as long as you have copper in your DT you can transfer your Hawks into it now if you would like. Just make sure you keep copper levels where they need to be since rock and sand can absorb a little.

 

[KEITH FERGUSON]

Since you are treating your DT with copper, it will be just fine. In fact, as long as you have copper in your DT you can transfer your Hawks into it now if you would like. Just make sure you keep copper levels where they need to be since rock and sand can absorb a little.

Thanks for your reply
You know what I find interesting, I used to use cupramine. In doing so I did have to add extra, because it was being absorbed by the live rock and sand. In using Copperpower ( i believe its the same as copper safe ) I dose it and it doesn't get absorbed by the rock and sand. I added the recommended amount and it stays there. No need to add extra, unless you do w/c. Just thought I would mention this.

 

[tgrick]

I have a question..... I had velvet wipe out all my fish in a fowlr about 3 weeks ago. Here is my plan, i will be going 6 weeks with no fish in my DT., and also using copperpower at 2.0 ppm. I use the API test kit and to be honest, it is a little difficult to read, so I think by the color chart, I am running slightly higher then 2.0. But with no fish, i'm not worried.

Also in my quarantine tank, that I set up 15 days after I went follow in the D.T. The only thing I'm questioning is I used the same water that was in my D.T, with also a few rocks that were in my sump. 5 days after starting up my quarantine tank I bought a pair of Flame Hawks, and added them to my quarantine tank. As of now everything looks good. I plan on keeping them in the quarantine tank with copper for 30 days.

Does this sound like i'm on the right track, or did I jump the gun in buying the 2 hawks ? Mr impatience here...

Please DO NOT USE API test kit. Reason: It is no where near the accuracy it needs to be. If you choose to use it...odds are you will lose fish. Why? You really can't tell where the true copper levels are. The Hanna HR Copper colorimeter is a GAME CHANGER and will enable you to have success. I feel that strongly about it.

I would not put copper in DT. No need. No fish so no velvet or ick. I would not use DT water but if you did then SLOWLY get copper above 1.5. It's impossible to tell with the API kit, hence the Hanna. You can go higher than 2 but I would not plan on having too many fish survive the treatment. In my 40 years of losing fish it starts at above 2.5 levels depending on the species.

My plan. DT fallow 76 days. QT tank with no copper until fish are in and then SLOWLY (5-7 days) raise copper to above 1.5. My target is just below 2 or 1.8 or so.

Good Luck

 

[KEITH FERGUSON]

Please DO NOT USE API test kit. Reason: It is no where near the accuracy it needs to be. If you choose to use it...odds are you will lose fish. Why? You really can't tell where the true copper levels are. The Hanna HR Copper colorimeter is a GAME CHANGER and will enable you to have success. I feel that strongly about it.

I would not put copper in DT. No need. No fish so no velvet or ick. I would not use DT water but if you did then SLOWLY get copper above 1.5. It's impossible to tell with the API kit, hence the Hanna. You can go higher than 2 but I would not plan on having too many fish survive the treatment. In my 40 years of losing fish it starts at above 2.5 levels depending on the species.

My plan. DT fallow 76 days. QT tank with no copper until fish are in and then SLOWLY (5-7 days) raise copper to above 1.5. My target is just below 2 or 1.8 or so.

Good Luck

Hi, Are you sure the hanna will read chelated copper ( copper power )...... Thanks....

 

[Brew12]

Hi, Are you sure the hanna will read chelated copper ( copper power )...... Thanks....

Yup, works very well on chelated and ionic coppers.

 

[4FordFamily]

Yup, works very well on chelated and ionic coppers.

Agreed.

 

[HotRocks]

Hi, Are you sure the hanna will read chelated copper ( copper power )...... Thanks....

100% positive!

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hi702-copper-checker-for-seawater.386806/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/c...ments-high-range-copper-checker-hi702.389436/

 

[lapin]

On that subject, is it known how to kill the tomont (or any other at-risk) form or otherwise completely decontaminate equipment to make it safe for use on another tank???

The consensus seems to be that using the TTM method you just need to rinse and let it dry for 24 hours. You can use bleach or a quaternary disinfectant. That will need to be removed before use.