Cutting Power Wire on AI Orbit 4

[Ken S]

I have 2 Orbit 4's. I swap them out every 4-6 weeks for cleaning. It's a peninsula tank & it's a pain to route that wire up & across the light rail to the back each time. It would be SOOO nice to have a connector so I can swap them for easy cleaning without routing that dang wire each time.

Thinking this would be quick & easy red to red & black to black barrel connector (and since I have male & female barrel connectors of various sizes), I opened up the AI connector. I found the span wire of wire I want to cut has 3 wires, Red, Black, White. All of my barrel connectors are two wire, so now I'm stuck.

Can anyone point me in the right direction? Will a barrel connector even work here? Any suggestions on the type of connector I should use & how to wire it? Is it as simple as just finding a 3-pin connector & wiring it red to red, black to black, white to white? I have some 4 pin connectors you can see in the photo. Can I use those? I don't see why it wouldn't work but thought I'd ask before I make the cut. The one I'm doing first is out of warranty.

The white arrow in the photo is where I want to install the connector.

I am not an electrician...... at all, obviously

 

[smitten with ocean life]

@UncommonSense

 

[UncommonSense]

This could work, assuming your existing four-pin connectors are rated for the requisite amperage (24v, 2A)!

The four pin connectors appear to have an indexing key so you cannot put them together incorrectly; that should be a non-issue!

I don’t see any reason why you can’t disconnect wiring between controller and pump, but that should be double-checked… there could be a reason to avoid this we’re missing, especially if the controller is powered!

the east way to split the cable would be after a pigtail coming out of the controller; allowing you to just pin like wire colors together!

 

[Ken S]

404 page

There is a link to the connectors I have. Do you think they'll work? What's the next move? Proceed with the install of the connector (trial & error method)?

I have the 4 pin, screw type connectors.

Thanks for helping!

 

[UncommonSense]

404 page

There is a link to the connectors I have. Do you think they'll work? What's the next move? Proceed with the install of the connector (trial & error method)?

I have the 4 pin, screw type connectors.

Thanks for helping!

Looks like there’s a link error… all we really need to know is their max rated current, though!

This should be straightforward like pinning of like colored wires, just be sure to note which direction the connector clocking key is oriented on both sides so you don’t get wires crossed when you assemble the plug!

 

[Ken S]

Here are the specs. Should be fine. I was using these for a DIY connector trying to get Hydros Kraken to power Sicce SD 7.0 return pumps. Kraken powers 24V devices to eliminate power bricks.

 

[UncommonSense]

Here are the specs. Should be fine. I was using these for a DIY connector trying to get Hydros Kraken to power Sicce SD 7.0 return pumps. Kraken powers 24V devices to eliminate power bricks.

Well, nothing on rated amperage, but if it was safely running a SDC 7.0… it’s probably fine?

 

[BriDroid]

Curious on how this works out.

 

[Ken S]

Curious on how this works out.

I am going to do it tomorrow or Monday, I'll update this thread on how it goes.

 

[Ken S]

Success! I spliced in the connector, plugged it in, opened Mobius, went to "add device" and there it was waiting for me to add it. So I can confirm it works. But further testing won't occur for 4-6 weeks when I change them out & run it for a while. Hopefully that will be the last time I will need to route that wire through the lightrail.

Here are some pics of the process. Last one shows the whole power wire with the shrink tubing applied. Let me know if anyone has any questions. I'm happy to help.

 

[BriDroid]

Success! I spliced in the connector, plugged it in, opened Mobius, went to "add device" and there it was waiting for me to add it. So I can confirm it works. But further testing won't occur for 4-6 weeks when I change them out & run it for a while. Hopefully that will be the last time I will need to route that wire through the lightrail.

Here are some pics of the process. Last one shows the whole power wire with the shrink tubing applied. Let me know if anyone has any questions. I'm happy to help.

That’s awesome!

 

[UncommonSense]

Success! I spliced in the connector, plugged it in, opened Mobius, went to "add device" and there it was waiting for me to add it. So I can confirm it works. But further testing won't occur for 4-6 weeks when I change them out & run it for a while. Hopefully that will be the last time I will need to route that wire through the lightrail.

Here are some pics of the process. Last one shows the whole power wire with the shrink tubing applied. Let me know if anyone has any questions. I'm happy to help.

Fantastic work!!

This looks very well done, I like the mechanical affixation those connectors have for pinning, too!

Here’s a few more tricks I learned in the automotive world to send you down the rabbit hole:

— Unfinished electrical cabinet; using braided split cable sleeving from Alex Tech for cable management!

— Deutsch type connectors for harsh environments; popular in vehicle applications! (Not cheap though, and do require dedicated wire gauged pins/crimping)

105PCS Deutsch Connector Kit in 2,3,4,6,8,12 Pin Configurations with Closed Barrel Crimper for Solid Contacts 14,16&18 Gauge

This 105-piece Deutsch DT connector wiring kit allows you to make easy, safe and waterproof Deutsch custom wiring harness. Deutsch crimper for use with size 16(AWG 14, 16, 18) solid contacts. Labor-saving operation in creating 4 indent, 8 impression crimps. Deutsch DT connectors in 2,3,4,6,8,12...

www.icrimptools.com

 

[Ken S]

Success! I spliced in the connector, plugged it in, opened Mobius, went to "add device" and there it was waiting for me to add it. So I can confirm it works. But further testing won't occur for 4-6 weeks when I change them out & run it for a while. Hopefully that will be the last time I will need to route that wire through the lightrail.

Here are some pics of the process. Last one shows the whole power wire with the shrink tubing applied. Let me know if anyone has any questions. I'm happy to help.

Fantastic work!!

This looks very well done, I like the mechanical affixation those connectors have for pinning, too!

Here’s a few more tricks I learned in the automotive world to send you down the rabbit hole:

— Unfinished electrical cabinet; using braided split cable sleeving from Alex Tech for cable management!

— Deutsch type connectors for harsh environments; popular in vehicle applications! (Not cheap though, and do require dedicated wire gauged pins/crimping)

105PCS Deutsch Connector Kit in 2,3,4,6,8,12 Pin Configurations with Closed Barrel Crimper for Solid Contacts 14,16&18 Gauge

This 105-piece Deutsch DT connector wiring kit allows you to make easy, safe and waterproof Deutsch custom wiring harness. Deutsch crimper for use with size 16(AWG 14, 16, 18) solid contacts. Labor-saving operation in creating 4 indent, 8 impression crimps. Deutsch DT connectors in 2,3,4,6,8,12...

www.icrimptools.com

That is a clean setup! Very nice work!

 

[Ken S]

Ok, the modified Orbit 4 with the connector is running on the tank. I guess if the house isn't burnt down in 4-6 weeks, the mod will be a success! Been running all day, no issues.

 

[Ken S]

Original Orbit 4 with the first mod worked fine for 6 weeks. I did the mod to my 2nd Orbit and it's in the tank running fine. I picked up a 3rd Orbit 4 (brand new, unopened) on FB Marketplace for $125 a couple weeks ago, couldn't pass it up.