Difference in RODI 6 stage refill kits

[Rooles]

I was wondering whats the main difference between these kits for a refill on a 6 stage RODI unit and if its worth getting the most expensive one.

$74.99 option:
GE ROSave.Z 1 Micron Depth Filter
(2) BRS Universal 1 Micron Carbon Block Filter
(2) 1.25 lb. Color Changing DI Resin Refill

$69.99 option:
NeoPure 1 Micron Depth Filter
(2) BRS Universal 1 Micron Carbon Block Filter
(2) 1.25 lb. Color Changing DI Resin Refill

$56.99 option:
Neo-Pure 5 Micron Sediment Filter
MATRIKX CTO 5 Micron Carbon Block
MATRIKX CTO 1 Carbon Block
2x - 1.25 lb. Color Changing DI Resin Refills

Thanks!

 

[KrisReef]

The difference is in the price for the profilers and for my money I would get the least expensive option. The prefilters are more restrictive than required if I remember correctly and for certain having duplicate 1 micron filters (as opposed to 20 and the 5, or 1) isn’t really necessary to improve the process or the life of the RO membrane that prefilters protect?

The workhorse of the filter is the membrane, so good prefilters are important but having too fine and duplicate isn’t necessary or wise.

The DI resin polishes the RO filtered water and appears to be the same stuff in all of the posted options, so it’s out of consideration for this discussion, but it is important for the final product.

 

[Rooles]

The difference is in the price for the profilers and for my money I would get the least expensive option. The prefilters are more restrictive than required if I remember correctly and for certain having duplicate 1 micron filters (as opposed to 20 and the 5, or 1) isn’t really necessary to improve the process or the life of the RO membrane that prefilters protect?

The workhorse of the filter is the membrane, so good prefilters are important but having too fine and duplicate isn’t necessary or wise.

The DI resin polishes the RO filtered water and appears to be the same stuff in all of the posted options, so it’s out of consideration for this discussion, but it is important for the final product.

Sounds good ty!

 

[Rooles]

Does anyone else have any opinions on the pre filter selection?

 

[rhitee93]

Supposedly, there is some difference in the ability of the different carbon pre filters to deal with chloramine treated water. If I believe the people who are selling me the filters, (ahem) the lower end carbon filters lose the ability to filter out the ions from the chloramine process, after which, they end up depleting your DI resin quickly.

I don't really know if this is true, but I pay the extra $10 or so just in case.

 

[Rooles]

Mmmm i see. Im not sure which way to go now. Luckily i have some time before i make the purchase. I will probably wait until a sale comes through regardless

 

[UncommonSense]

BRS did have a video on this; it was many, many years ago, though…

If memory serves correct; BRS claims that their carbon blocks physically weigh more than competitors (more carbon)…

— the GE sediment filter is the gold standard, it’s actually graded between 1and .1 micron, basically just a better sediment trap…

The idea here being that your sediment filter should actually be replaced most often, followed by carbon block, then RO membrane(s)…

— the sediment filter keeps the carbon blocks from prematurely clogging

— the carbon blocks keep chlorine/chloramine from rapidly degrading the RO membrane(s)


Knowing this, I actually have a 5micron GE sediment prefilter, which I change every six months; allowing my 1micron sediment and dual 1micron carbon blocks to be changed roughly yearly! — this saves $ in the long run as RO membranes last 4+ years (and are by-far the most expensive component)!

— try ignoring the cost of the RO membranes in the replacement kit and looking at the cost of just sediment/just carbon… they are significantly cheaper than the RO membranes!

 

[Rooles]

BRS did have a video on this; it was many, many years ago, though…

If memory serves correct; BRS claims that their carbon blocks physically weigh more than competitors (more carbon)…

— the GE sediment filter is the gold standard, it’s actually graded between 1and .1 micron, basically just a better sediment trap…

The idea here being that your sediment filter should actually be replaced most often, followed by carbon block, then RO membrane(s)…

— the sediment filter keeps the carbon blocks from prematurely clogging

— the carbon blocks keep chlorine/chloramine from rapidly degrading the RO membrane(s)


Knowing this, I actually have a 5micron GE sediment prefilter, which I change every six months; allowing my 1micron sediment and dual 1micron carbon blocks to be changed roughly yearly! — this saves $ in the long run as RO membranes last 4+ years (and are by-far the most expensive component)!

— try ignoring the cost of the RO membranes in the replacement kit and looking at the cost of just sediment/just carbon… they are significantly cheaper than the RO membranes!

This is really good info. Okay i think ill get the GE/BRS pack. Do you recommend i order Sediment filter seprately from the packs once the sediment filter depletes? How do you become aware that the filters are depleted?

Thanks!

 

[UncommonSense]

This is really good info. Okay i think ill get the GE/BRS pack. Do you recommend i order Sediment filter seprately from the packs once the sediment filter depletes? How do you become aware that the filters are depleted?

Thanks!

I usually wait until the Black Friday/cyber Monday BRS sale then get a years worth of everything; I order sediment filters separately to have a replacement laying around at all times, just because they’re so cheap!

As far as knowing when you’re due to replace them I usually just look at how gross they’re getting, as opposed to waiting for a visible pressure drop!

Example:

Bottom center add-on canister is my 5 micron prefilter; now 7 months old (big chunks are bits of failing booster pump that got ejected)

Note how the 1micron factory filter is just becoming off-white, and the 5micron prefilter below it is, well, gross…

This said, I’m a bit overdue to replace my prefilter!

(Also note the neoprene sleeve/black electrical tape over carbon block #2! — carbon block #1 dechlorinates incoming tap water, this dechlorinated water sits in the housing of carbon block #2, literally growing green algae if exposed to sufficient light!)

 

[Rooles]

I usually wait until the Black Friday/cyber Monday BRS sale then get a years worth of everything; I order sediment filters separately to have a replacement laying around at all times, just because they’re so cheap!

As far as knowing when you’re due to replace them I usually just look at how gross they’re getting, as opposed to waiting for a visible pressure drop!

Example:

Bottom center add-on canister is my 5 micron prefilter; now 7 months old (big chunks are bits of failing booster pump that got ejected)

Note how the 1micron factory filter is just becoming off-white, and the 5micron prefilter below it is, well, gross…

This said, I’m a bit overdue to replace my prefilter!

(Also note the neoprene sleeve/black electrical tape over carbon block #2! — carbon block #1 dechlorinates incoming tap water, this dechlorinated water sits in the housing of carbon block #2, literally growing green algae if exposed to sufficient

I usually wait until the Black Friday/cyber Monday BRS sale then get a years worth of everything; I order sediment filters separately to have a replacement laying around at all times, just because they’re so cheap!

As far as knowing when you’re due to replace them I usually just look at how gross they’re getting, as opposed to waiting for a visible pressure drop!

Example:

Bottom center add-on canister is my 5 micron prefilter; now 7 months old (big chunks are bits of failing booster pump that got ejected)

Note how the 1micron factory filter is just becoming off-white, and the 5micron prefilter below it is, well, gross…

This said, I’m a bit overdue to replace my prefilter!

(Also note the neoprene sleeve/black electrical tape over carbon block #2! — carbon block #1 dechlorinates incoming tap water, this dechlorinated water sits in the housing of carbon block #2, literally growing green algae if exposed to sufficient light!)

Oooo okay i gotcha. I supposed id know the carbon blocks are depleted from tds readings spiking too. Okay good deal. Im not really sure how many filters ill go through in a year. I may go a little overboard at first just to make sure im good. I appreciate all of the information!

 

[UncommonSense]

Oooo okay i gotcha. I supposed id know the carbon blocks are depleted from tds readings spiking too. Okay good deal. Im not really sure how many filters ill go through in a year. I may go a little overboard at first just to make sure im good. I appreciate all of the information!

Oh, the carbon blocks do nothing for TDS! — they are chemical filtration!

Your RO membranes are what filter TDS out of the water; a RO product water TDS spike that doesn’t drop after an extended RO water production run indicates damaged or failing RO membrane(s)!

— BRS carbon blocks are rated for 35,000g of chlorinated water if memory serves correct… this means that you will get no chlorine going past them until their lifespan is depleted (note that chlorine and Chloramine are different, and require slightly different filtration techniques)…

To test for a spent carbon block:

Take a sample of your RO waste water (black line) , dip a chlorine test strip in your sample… if your strip reads any chlorine in the waste water, your carbon blocks are spent!

— or, you can just replace them every 12-18 months as a general precaution against organic biofilm accumulation, without trying to stretch lifespan with chlorine tests!

 

[Rooles]

Oh, the carbon blocks do nothing for TDS! — they are chemical filtration!

Your RO membranes are what filter TDS out of the water; a RO product water TDS spike that doesn’t drop after an extended RO water production run indicates damaged or failing RO membrane(s)!

— BRS carbon blocks are rated for 35,000g of chlorinated water if memory serves correct… this means that you will get no chlorine going past them until their lifespan is depleted (note that chlorine and Chloramine are different, and require slightly different filtration techniques)…

To test for a spent carbon block:

Take a sample of your RO waste water (black line) , dip a chlorine test strip in your sample… if your strip reads any chlorine in the waste water, your carbon blocks are spent!

— or, you can just replace them every 12-18 months as a general precaution against organic biofilm accumulation, without trying to stretch lifespan with chlorine tests!

Ooo okay thats good to know. Ill look into the chlorine strips!

 

[Freenow54]

The difference is in the price for the profilers and for my money I would get the least expensive option. The prefilters are more restrictive than required if I remember correctly and for certain having duplicate 1 micron filters (as opposed to 20 and the 5, or 1) isn’t really necessary to improve the process or the life of the RO membrane that prefilters protect?

The workhorse of the filter is the membrane, so good prefilters are important but having too fine and duplicate isn’t necessary or wise.

The DI resin polishes the RO filtered water and appears to be the same stuff in all of the posted options, so it’s out of consideration for this discussion, but it is important for the final product.

I agree but would consider a UV filter. I use one called a or should I say named made by GEEK .5-1 GPH for $59 Canadian. It was recommended to me by Randy Holmes for my set up , and it made a huge difference

 

[Rooles]

Oh, the carbon blocks do nothing for TDS! — they are chemical filtration!

Your RO membranes are what filter TDS out of the water; a RO product water TDS spike that doesn’t drop after an extended RO water production run indicates damaged or failing RO membrane(s)!

— BRS carbon blocks are rated for 35,000g of chlorinated water if memory serves correct… this means that you will get no chlorine going past them until their lifespan is depleted (note that chlorine and Chloramine are different, and require slightly different filtration techniques)…

To test for a spent carbon block:

Take a sample of your RO waste water (black line) , dip a chlorine test strip in your sample… if your strip reads any chlorine in the waste water, your carbon blocks are spent!

— or, you can just replace them every 12-18 months as a general precaution against organic biofilm accumulation, without trying to stretch lifespan with chlorine tests!

I found a couple of different test kits. One is for pools and measures both free and total chlorine from. 5ppm to 10ppm. The other is a restaurant test strip starting at 10ppm

I agree but would consider a UV filter. I use one called a or should I say named made by GEEK .5-1 GPH for $59 Canadian. It was recommended to me by Randy Holmes for my set up , and it made a huge difference

What does the uv filter do for the rodi systems?

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

Does anyone else have any opinions on the pre filter selection?

Your third option has a carbon block with the pore size smaller than the sediment filter... That's a no-no.

And of course we'd prefer you bought your filters at www.buckeyehydro.com!

 

[UncommonSense]

.5-1 GPH

This just caught my eye… 720-1440gpd rated flow rate…

A single 75GPD membrane in best-case scenario (1:4 product:waste) is only moving a total throughput of 375GPD with product and waste water combined…

Even my dual membrane/booster pump system at 240GPD 1:2 product:waste was at 720GPD total throughput, and only at 95PSI (over safe max operating pressure; any pressure reduction would lower total daily water throughput)!


this said, are you experiencing any heat issues with this UV lamp? How frequently does the lamp’s sleeve require cleaning?

— I’m genuinely curious, as I’ve been wanting to add a UV to my system, but haven’t found a suitable model rated for such a low flow rate!

 

[UncommonSense]

I found a couple of different test kits. One is for pools and measures both free and total chlorine from. 5ppm to 10ppm. The other is a restaurant test strip starting at 10ppm

There are strips specific to testing RO product/waste water, though I haven’t bought them in close to a decade… perhaps someone else can chime in here with a recommendation? — @Buckeye Hydro ?

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

— ...carbon blocks are rated for 35,000g of chlorinated water if memory serves correct… this means that you will get no chlorine going past them until their lifespan is depleted (note that chlorine and Chloramine are different, and require slightly different filtration techniques)…

Here's a fun fact to know and tell. The methods used to test "Chlorine Capacity" end when 50% of the chlorine gets past the filter. So never run a carbon block up to the manufacturer's Chlorine Capacity.

 

[UncommonSense]

Here's a fun fact to know and tell. The methods used to test "Chlorine Capacity" end when 50% of the chlorine gets past the filter. So never run a carbon block up to the manufacturer's Chlorine Capacity.

That is a fun fact indeed! I was not aware, thank you for that nugget of knowledge!

And here I was thinking I was leaving carbon on the table by just doing yearly changes to avoid substantial biofilm accumulation!

 

[Freenow54]

I found a couple of different test kits. One is for pools and measures both free and total chlorine from. 5ppm to 10ppm. The other is a restaurant test strip starting at 10ppm

What does the uv filter do for the rodi systems?

Controls Bacteria. Randy Holmes said he worked on a customers system and the flow was low. The issue was bacteria blocking the flow between membranes. In my case I have a Zero waste system so It produces 24 Gallons a Day so for me Mine is perfect. I was getting an awful smell in my hot water because that is where the water is forced. My water heater was rumbling like crazy. I used to be in the HVAC industry and that meant sediment build up, the smell and rumbling went away in a couple or three weeks Amazing