Difference in RODI 6 stage refill kits

[Freenow54]

This just caught my eye… 720-1440gpd rated flow rate…

A single 75GPD membrane in best-case scenario (1:4 product:waste) is only moving a total throughput of 375GPD with product and waste water combined…

Even my dual membrane/booster pump system at 240GPD 1:2 product:waste was at 720GPD total throughput, and only at 95PSI (over safe max operating pressure; any pressure reduction would lower total daily water throughput)!


this said, are you experiencing any heat issues with this UV lamp? How frequently does the lamp’s sleeve require cleaning?

— I’m genuinely curious, as I’ve been wanting to add a UV to my system, but haven’t found a suitable model rated for such a low flow rate!

My system produces 24 GPD it is a zero waste system by Watts so the light is perfect. The quartz sleeve does not require cleaning on an RO. I am going to add one to my two tanks. I am guessing they will need to have the sleeve cleaned I don't know how often yet may add a timer. I was told vinegar will clean it I read based on a 50 gallon tank you need 25-75GPD for Parasites and 150-225 for ALGAE.

 

[Freenow54]

My system produces 24 GPD it is a zero waste system by Watts so the light is perfect. The quartz sleeve does not require cleaning on an RO. I am going to add one to my two tanks. I am guessing they will need to have the sleeve cleaned I don't know how often yet may add a timer. I was told vinegar will clean it I read based on a 50 gallon tank you need 25-75GPD for Parasites and 150-225 for ALGAE.

So I am starting to investigate what the requirements are for a UV watts verses flow rate for a 75 specifically. Lots of info available even a review on Amazon about mine 6 watt explains in a very professional not personal way that 6 watts just is not capable of the required flow rate for my purpose. The minimum apparantly is 8 better is 15. The next one up in the Geekpure line is 25 so would have to lower the flow rate considerably to achieve Parasite control but price is 4x more however includes 3 extra lights, and 3extra Quartz sleeves which as far as prices for Quartz sleeves that I have seen is a true bargin. This unit should also do my 100 I think but was focusing on the 75. There is also a meter available for UV lights which I have not priced out yet.

 

[Freenow54]

BRS did have a video on this; it was many, many years ago, though…

If memory serves correct; BRS claims that their carbon blocks physically weigh more than competitors (more carbon)…

— the GE sediment filter is the gold standard, it’s actually graded between 1and .1 micron, basically just a better sediment trap…

The idea here being that your sediment filter should actually be replaced most often, followed by carbon block, then RO membrane(s)…

— the sediment filter keeps the carbon blocks from prematurely clogging

— the carbon blocks keep chlorine/chloramine from rapidly degrading the RO membrane(s)


Knowing this, I actually have a 5micron GE sediment prefilter, which I change every six months; allowing my 1micron sediment and dual 1micron carbon blocks to be changed roughly yearly! — this saves $ in the long run as RO membranes last 4+ years (and are by-far the most expensive component)!

— try ignoring the cost of the RO membranes in the replacement kit and looking at the cost of just sediment/just carbon… they are significantly cheaper than the RO membranes!

Randy Holmes said he has never changed his . My manual says 2 years they are not cheap. That being said I will wait until the others have to be done in December. The flow is fine and TDS is perfect

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

That is a fun fact indeed! I was not aware, thank you for that nugget of knowledge!

And here I was thinking I was leaving carbon on the table by just doing yearly changes to avoid substantial biofilm accumulation!

Shoot for changing out a carbon block @ about half the stated Chlorine Capacity.