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- Dec 2, 2020
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Well, I think you are breaking a few guidelines: one guideline is the UV should be whatever your system gallons are /3 (or as close to that as you can get it, mine is more like divided by 4) but in your case the UV is only 50watt for 300gal that is divided by 6 so many would consider not big enough.Thanks ScottB! I’m waiting on another microscope for ID bc the first one I ordered was a useless piece of . I have a Pentair 50 watt Smart HO UV for my system (300G net water volume) which is designed for saltwater systems up to 330G net volume. I have it on a closed loop system in my sump fed by a dedicated 1800gph pump with a ball valve for flow control. Changing plumbing to have UV direct inline with DT isn’t an option for me, but I’ve got 3X/hr system volume turnover going through my sump so I think I’m ok on that front. For uV flow, I’ve got it tuned high flow for bacteria and algae currently. I’ll take your advice and lower flow to nuke things to a crisp. Will report back in a few days. Thx!
Secondly since you are closed loop sump to sump its sort of a passive filtration into the UV not 100% effective so you are not following the guidelines on that front either.
The 1800gph pump sounds like its pushing the water too fast through your UV as previous poster said you want to BROIL them so maybe slow it down with a valve.
Also, since you cant plumb it into the return could you temporarily make it loop from SUMP-> DT? That would be a big improvement IMO
3x tank turnover in my humble opinion is pretty low. Some might say good enough, but its on the low end. That coupled with passive UV filtration could be hindering you.
Something to consider!
The other thing I forgot to mention earlier is some good manual removal I did a good substrate vac and as often as possible I tried to coax the dinos into water column especially at night time when lights go down. (Scrub them off walls, rocks, etc and help get them into the UV)