I've been in the process of setting up my new reef tank and I've been doing the research on various QT processes. Hopefully what I'm about to write up is a good gathering of that information and can be corrected if it isn't. I'm extremely risk adverse so here goes:
First of all, quarantine is done to prevent the introduction of pests, disease, and other undesirables lifeforms into our tanks. Anything wet going into the tank gets the quarantine!
The quarantine time of 76 days is based upon post here, summarized, math here
For corals, there's an additional component, the dip. In my reading, there's many different chemical mixes to dip with, from Coral RX, Iodine, Bayer Advanced and so on, but the importance is that one DOES dip their corals, thoroughly clean it, and remount it. The overall process, simplified from all my reading is this:
This does mean setting up another tank (20 gal) cycling it, and using it to hold coral or fish for the 76 day period. Water changes should be frequent, at least weekly 20% changes. This QT tank should have minimal equipment; a heater, powerhead, HOB filter, seachem alert tag, and sufficient light for corals; fish might not need the light.
Now my question.... is this right? Where should I correct my information?
First of all, quarantine is done to prevent the introduction of pests, disease, and other undesirables lifeforms into our tanks. Anything wet going into the tank gets the quarantine!
The quarantine time of 76 days is based upon post here, summarized, math here
- Ich Free swimmers are no longer infective after 48 hours.
- Velvet can survive up to 15 days.
- Tomonts cannot be washed away and neither dips nor copper kills them.
- Tomonts can take up to 72 days to "hatch" or release
- 2 days (free swimmers) + 72 days (tomont release) + 2 days (free swimmer effectiveness) = 76 days
For corals, there's an additional component, the dip. In my reading, there's many different chemical mixes to dip with, from Coral RX, Iodine, Bayer Advanced and so on, but the importance is that one DOES dip their corals, thoroughly clean it, and remount it. The overall process, simplified from all my reading is this:
- Acclimate coral to your QT tank temperature (appx 20 mins)
- While its acclimating, lightly scrub it with a toothbrush to remove algae, and other things that may be attached. Might not happen with a soft coral.
- Prepare 3 baths or 3 containers with QT Tank water:
- Bath 1 - the dip that you're using mixed in correct ratio with QT tank water
- Bath 2 - rinse, QT tank water that you'll use to rinse the corals of the dip, you'll clean in here too
- Bath 3 - QT tank water, a holding area for the coral frag after done rinsing
- After acclimating coral to the QT tank temperature, start a slow drip of the QT tank water until there's more QT tank water than LFS/Shipping water in the bag/container.
- Dip the corals in Bath 1, hitting the corals with a turkey baster to dislodge anything attached to the frag. (appx 10 - 20 mins, depending on dip)
- After time is up on the dip, move the frag or coral to Bath 2, swirl to rinse off the dip. observe and inspect the frag there.
- Remove the coral from bath 2, cut it off the frag plug it came on and glue it onto a new frag plug.
- Frag plug replacement might actually take place after acclimation, before the dip!
- Add the coral to bath 3 to remove the glue film that may form.
- Move the coral to the QT tank, put it through the above 76 day QT period.
- Every 30 days, re-dip all corals from QT tank.
- After 76 days, acclimate to display water and add to the display tank.
This does mean setting up another tank (20 gal) cycling it, and using it to hold coral or fish for the 76 day period. Water changes should be frequent, at least weekly 20% changes. This QT tank should have minimal equipment; a heater, powerhead, HOB filter, seachem alert tag, and sufficient light for corals; fish might not need the light.
Now my question.... is this right? Where should I correct my information?
