Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I think you’d have to test out the trace element part.Yes, I use their B product (Just bought a 4kg bucket).
Is there mixing instructions for tropic marine a and k to add to any of the solutions?
www.tropic-marin-smartinfo.com
I guess my question would be if it could be combined with part one or two or both. I mix the parts to a liter instead of a gallon since thats what my dosing containers are. I wasn't sure if A and K could be added into part 1 or two. And if so how much I would weigh to mix and what part I would add it into.
I'm curious how you make pre-prepped food cubes? Meaning, what recipe do you use and what do you use to form the food cubes?Oh I know :)! the 1:1:1 super helpful. I’ve really simplified ongoing tank chores the last few years and it’s a game changer. My dosing container sizes, top off, pre-prepped food cubes, etc are all done for simplicity, repeatability and no intervention for 45 days (I travel for work). This thread fits perfectly with my approach.
Just added it.Oh, I thought that was in the thread, but K goes in the calcium part and A in the alk part. Are you using the A and K liquid?
Oh dear, Miami might ban be for sidetracking this thread! I’ll post a reply in my barely active build thread and tag you in it.I'm curious how you make pre-prepped food cubes? Meaning, what recipe do you use and what do you use to form the food cubes?
Is there any logic that the trace would be consumed proportionately to alkalinity? Or does bacteria, algae, etc consume trace independently so it won’t track with calcification?When you say instructions, do you mean more than the amount needed? Just add it and give it a quick shake.
In terms of amount, you can either try to match the ratios in AFR, or you can determine your daily dose of the two part (say, 20 mL of each part per day), and then incorporate the A and K based on the per day volume directions (starting dose is 1 mL per day per 100 L aquarium water). Thus, in this example, with a 100 L aquarium, you'd add 1 mL of trace to 20 mL of the two part and then dose 21 ml per day (or something equivalent) .
![]()
K+ Elements | Produktinformationen
www.tropic-marin-smartinfo.com
Add 1 ml of trace elements (each solution) to each 100 l of aquarium water daily. The trace element solution must not come into direct contact with the animals.
The dose may be doubled if the corals consume large quantities of trace elements (maximum dosage).
Is there any logic that the trace would be consumed proportionately to alkalinity?
Makes sense. Thanks. AFR works pretty well for me, but I suppose that’s probably because my tank is close to what it was designed for.Any logic? Some.
Not the best idea, IMO.
If the consumption of trace elements is mostly by hard corals, then yes, it is sensible.
If the tank grows macroalgae, soft corals, anemones, ATS, etc., then there will be a large amount of many trace elements consumed independent of alkalinity consumed.
It's a drawback of something like AFR and a plus for something like TM A and K which can be adjusted based on the tank itself.
For example, a soft coral tank that uses a little AFR for a little coralline algae growth, and maybe a hard coral or two, will be getting far less trace elements than an SPS tank using AFR that might actually be consuming smaller amounts of traces such as iron, manganese, iodine, etc.
Makes sense. Thanks. AFR works pretty well for me, but I suppose that’s probably because my tank is close to what it was designed for.
Do you think that we can add A to alk part based on NaOH?Oh, I thought that was in the thread, but K goes in the calcium part and A in the alk part. Are you using the A and K liquid?
Do you think that we can add A to alk part based on NaOH?
I've found using calcium chloride anhydrous could work out almost half the cost of dihydrate (here in the UK anyways)
Any are there any pros & cons using anhydrous?
Yeah it does say suitable for aquariums but the data sheet states "technical grade" so questionable.There's nothing wrong with anhydrous, though it will oven be more expensive for similar purity as I think it is usually made by adding a heating/drying step to the hydrate manufacture.
There's nothing wrong with anhydrous, though it will oven be more expensive for similar purity as I think it is usually made by adding a heating/drying step to the hydrate manufacture.
Yeah it does say suitable for aquariums but the data sheet states "technical grade" so questionable.
I know aquaforest calcium is anhydrous and uses 50g per liter but not sure if the concentration is the same.
Perhaps I'll just stuck with dihydrate