DIY Balling Method Recipe

That’s how it should be done.

1 gallon of the soda ash solution for alkalinity
1 gallon of the calcium chloride solution for calcium
1 gallon of the balling + magnesium mix



Mine was even higher because I used the incorrect magnesium chloride-to-sulfate ratio (which inspired this thread). This thread has the magnesium ratios to prevent high sulfate from happening again.

IMG_2668.jpeg


Do you change the water regularly? If so, the sulfate will naturally trend back down. I agree with Randy that your current sulfate will cause no issues.

You can also only use magnesium chloride for the extra mag part step. You’d use 8 cups of magnesium chloride and add 203mL with the balling, but it’s really not necessary.


I hope this helps.
Miami Reef, Sir! I decided to not waste what I was currently had mixed when I read thru this thread several weeks ago. Now I am ready to mix up the next batch. I hate to beat a dead horse but would you please let me know if I have this Balling C part mixing process correct?

7 scoops Balling C mixed in 1g jug of RO/DI

7.25 cups Magnesium chloride hexahydrate + 3/4 cup Epsom mixed in 1g jug of RO/DI

Then take 203ml of the Mag Chloride/Epsom solution & mix it into the 7 scoops of Balling C

The remaining Mag Chloride/Epsom is good to store in the jug longterm? No I'll effects?

Hard to believe such a small amount (203ml) will maintain my Magnesium when I'm pumping in like half that amount of BRS Mag every day. It must be a much stronger solution, yes?

When I go to dose it, I dose exact same as Alk, correct? Right now I'm dosing 200ml/day of BRS Soda Ash so 200ml/day of this Balling C/Mag solution, correct?

Thank you very much!
 
The remaining Mag Chloride/Epsom is good to store in the jug longterm? No I'll effects?
Yes. It will last indefinitely.
Hard to believe such a small amount (203ml) will maintain my Magnesium when I'm pumping in like half that amount of BRS Mag every day. It must be a much stronger solution, yes?
The solutions should be the same concentration since BRS uses Randy’s recipes.

Magnesium depletes very slowly, much slower than any reef test kit can detect. I think there’s a faulty test kit at play. There shouldn’t be a need to add magnesium daily to maintain levels.

When I go to dose it, I dose exact same as Alk, correct? Right now I'm dosing 200ml/day of BRS Soda Ash so 200ml/day of this Balling C/Mag solution, correct?
Yes.
 
Yes. It will last indefinitely.

The solutions should be the same concentration since BRS uses Randy’s recipes.

Magnesium depletes very slowly, much slower than any reef test kit can detect. I think there’s a faulty test kit at play. There shouldn’t be a need to add magnesium daily to maintain levels.


Yes.
Thank you very much MR! Much appreciate you taking the time to answer so quickly.
 
@Miami Reef
I've been giving this a whirl for the last month with aquaforest mineral salts. 45 - 50% of my demand is supplied by kalk, so I've changed the part C to account for this (10% mag, not the suggested 5.4%). I'm using 66g calcium chloride and 80g per litre bicarb for the 2 part. To make a litre of the "C" I'm using 25g mineral salt, 34g mag chloride, 3.4g mag sulfate. Dissolves just as fast as the mineral salts alone. Easy, if I've worked it out right :)
Useful thread, nice work.
 
Would aquaforest magnesium be okay to add to the part c? If so does anyone know how much i would weigh in?

 
Would aquaforest magnesium be okay to add to the part c? If so does anyone know how much i would weigh in?


It would be fine and I’d use it just like other brands. I doubt it is anhydrous.
 
I am using Part C, I was going to actually mix it with Part C. Was just unsure of how many grams of it to weigh in the solution. The magnesium measurements I see on this thread is for epsom salt and the hexahydrate. The chemistry aspect of this hobby always swamps me for some reason.
 
I am using Part C, I was going to actually mix it with Part C. Was just unsure of how many grams of it to weigh in the solution. The magnesium measurements I see on this thread is for epsom salt and the hexahydrate. The chemistry aspect of this hobby always swamps me for some reason.

The answer is close to the same. Magnesium chloride hexahydrate (12%) and magnesium sulfate heptahydrate (10%) are close enough in percentage magnesium to ignore the differences for most purposes.
 
Thx to Randy for directing me to this thread. A question about the Balling part C: this is sold as a dry mix, but also sold with liquid solution A and K. Why would or wouldn’t you include A and K in this 3 part recipe? Is including the A and K in an effort to minimize or avoid water changes?
 
Thx to Randy for directing me to this thread. A question about the Balling part C: this is sold as a dry mix, but also sold with liquid solution A and K. Why would or wouldn’t you include A and K in this 3 part recipe? Is including the A and K in an effort to minimize or avoid water changes?
Balling is meant for maintaining ionic balance. It doesn’t actually supplement anything, but rather keeps them from falling with standard 2 parts.

Tropic Marin A & K are trace elements. You can add those for coral, algae, and bacteria health — it’s unrelated to water changes.

If you don’t want to change water and you choose to use a “2 part”, following this recipe is highly recommended.
 
I've been doing this method a couple weeks now & I'm seeing Calcium (and Magnesium) levels trending down a bit & KH trending up a bit. Is this normal?
Current Parameters
SG 1.026
PH 8.23
KH 9.8 Hanna
NIT 8.0 Hanna
PHOS .07 Hanna
CA 355 Salifert (twice - same reading)
MG 1020 Salifert

I do have an AWC system changing out 5g/day on 240g system. Every 4-8 weeks I vacuum gravel into a sock in the sump & change 25g.

Looking back at previous numbers before the switch, CA hung out around 420 & MG around 1300 & KH around 8.8, but I adjusted the dose of each container to hit those numbers. This method says to dose all three in equal amounts of which I am dosing 205ml/day each.

I feel I should do nothing at the moment as these numbers are pretty much acceptable to me. Except that KH number is a bit concerning as I've seen RTN/STN happen in my tank when KH is over 10. Maybe that wasn't the cause, it's just my speculation. But I brought it down slowly & it has stopped.

Thank you R2R!
 
The Balling DIY supplement recipe utilize a 1:1:1 dosing ratio to maintain proper alkalinity. For instance, if you require 50 mL of the alkalinity solution, you should also add 50 mL of Calcium and Balling.


Alkalinity (Choose One) :


Option 1: Converting Baking Soda (Sodium bicarbonate) into Soda Ash (Sodium carbonate) at home:

Spread 594 grams (approximately two ¼ cups) of Baking Soda on a baking tray. Heat in an oven at 300°F for one hour. This process drives off water and carbon dioxide; overheating is not a concern. Dissolve the resulting solid in enough water to make 1 gallon total of Soda Ash.
Source


If you purchased pre-made Soda Ash, it is 375g per gallon.


Option 2: Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)


Add 283 grams of food-grade sodium hydroxide to 1 gallon of fresh water. It will get quite warm. Make sure it doesn't soften your container. This solution will contain about 1,900 meq/L of alkalinity (5,300 dKH). There is no alkalinity additive that has a greater pH boost than hydroxides.


BE CAREFUL WITH THIS SOLUTION: IT HAS A pH ABOVE 14. Do not get it in your eyes or on your skin. Keep all reef chemicals, especially this alk part, in a way that children or pets cannot access them.
Source


*You can add Tropic Marin A- Trace Elements to either Alkalinity part.

Calcium:


Dissolve 500 grams (about 2 ½ cups) of calcium chloride dihydrate (such as Dowflake 77-80% calcium chloride or ESV calcium chloride; see below for substitutes and sources) in enough water to make 1 gallon of total volume. You can dissolve it in about ½ gallon of water, and then pour that into the 1 gallon container and fill it to the top with more freshwater. This solution has about 37,000 ppm calcium.
Source


Note: If you use an anhydrous or monohydrate calcium chloride (such as Dow Mini-Pellets, Kent's Turbo Calcium, Prestone Driveway Heat or Peladow Calcium Chloride), then you should use about 20% (1/5) less solid calcium chloride by volume to make the recipe. Note that the solution will get quite hot when dissolving anhydrous calcium chloride. See the section on substitutions for further information.
Source

*You can add Tropic Marin K+ Trace Elements to the Calcium part.

Balling Method (Choose One) :


Option 1: Tropic Marin Balling Part C

Dissolve 182 grams (about seven scoops) in enough RO/DI or purified water to make one gallon total volume.


Tropic Marin’s instructions are for concentrations 50% weaker, so I’ve appropriately doubled it to equal 1:1:1 dosing.



Option 2: Aquaforest Mineral Salt

Dissolve 189 grams in enough RO/DI or purified water to make one gallon total volume.

Aquaforest’s instructions are for solutions 50% weaker, so I’ve appropriately doubled it to equal 1:1:1 dosing.




Magnesium 10:1 Ratio:


Dissolve 7¼ cups (1,285g) of magnesium chloride hexahydrate and 3/4 cups (128g) of Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate heptahydrate) in enough water to make one gallon.


Dosing Instructions for Magnesium:

Dose at 5.4% of the volume used for the other parts. For every gallon of other solutions used, add 203 mL of the magnesium mix.

Update 3/8/25
You can add this magnesium part (203mL) into the Balling Part. It will dissolve, which makes this a true three-part.


We must supplement the extra magnesium because The Balling Method only has enough to offset ionic imbalance, not consumption.

The 10:1 ratio is the chloride-to-sulfate ratio of normal seawater, which is necessary for this recipe.




If anyone has further questions, please feel free to ask in this thread.
I have no idea why this did not show up in my notifications. However glad I stumbled on iy as I was just talking to Randy Holmes Farley about this. So I also found out I can print sections of threads so I did. Now I have to find test kits to measure. Are they made? If so who's are the best. Thanks
 
I have no idea why this did not show up in my notifications. However glad I stumbled on iy as I was just talking to Randy Holmes Farley about this. So I also found out I can print sections of threads so I did. Now I have to find test kits to measure. Are they made? If so who's are the best. Thanks
I’m glad it was helpful!

Test kits to measure what?
 
I've been doing this method a couple weeks now & I'm seeing Calcium (and Magnesium) levels trending down a bit & KH trending up a bit. Is this normal?
Current Parameters
SG 1.026
PH 8.23
KH 9.8 Hanna
NIT 8.0 Hanna
PHOS .07 Hanna
CA 355 Salifert (twice - same reading)
MG 1020 Salifert

I do have an AWC system changing out 5g/day on 240g system. Every 4-8 weeks I vacuum gravel into a sock in the sump & change 25g.

Looking back at previous numbers before the switch, CA hung out around 420 & MG around 1300 & KH around 8.8, but I adjusted the dose of each container to hit those numbers. This method says to dose all three in equal amounts of which I am dosing 205ml/day each.

I feel I should do nothing at the moment as these numbers are pretty much acceptable to me. Except that KH number is a bit concerning as I've seen RTN/STN happen in my tank when KH is over 10. Maybe that wasn't the cause, it's just my speculation. But I brought it down slowly & it has stopped.

Thank you R2R!

No, thats not the expected result unless you are adding alk some other way. But I also am certain the magnesium result of 1300 to 1020 is not accurate or is a large salinity drop.
 
I’m glad it was helpful!

Test kits to measure what?
Its Ok I went back in the thread and found the answer. But not clear on the volume percentage you add to the Tank. I already use K+ and A- I put 4 ml into my tank which is a 90 display and 40 sump which obviously is never full
 
No, thats not the expected result unless you are adding alk some other way. But I also am certain the magnesium result of 1300 to 1020 is not accurate or is a large salinity drop.
I am not adding any other Alk.

I am going to change out tubes & recalibrate my dosing pump this weekend. I did not do that when I switched over to this method.

Salinity has been a problem. I have a Hannah pen, a Hannah base station refractometer, a Tropic Marin glass hydrometer, a hydros salinity probe & they all give me four different readings. The Tropic Marin and the hydros probe are both close enough (within .05 SG) that I just go with those. The two Hannah items always read a full 2.0 - 3.0 SG lower so I've stopped using them. I have calibrated the TM glass hydrometer with a standard solution. At first that hydros probe was all over the place for a month I didn't trust it at all but now the trend line is dead solid straight almost all the time and it is close enough to the TM that I trust it.
 
I am considering using bicarbonate instead of soda ash since my pH is already around 8.15 -8.35 (with the assumption that soda ash will raise the pH more). I ve just been dosing bicarbonate to raise my alk (now around 8 dkh) , which until recently was very low. If I understand post#5 correctly, one would use 2:1 solution volume of bicarbonate relative to the other 2 components. Is that based on dissolving 594g of bicarbonate in one gallon? If not what is the mass of bicarbonate to use? Or am I overly concerned about the Ph effect and I should just use the soda ash?
 
Or am I overly concerned about the Ph effect and I should just use the soda ash?
Ya. It’s almost impossible to have pH over 8.3 with using sodium bicarbonate.

I blame the probe or kit. The probe will skew high overtime without recalibrations.

I’d use sodium carbonate. It’s better for pH and growth, and the solutions have double the potency as it’s more soluble than the bicarbonate recipe.
 

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