I run my blues at 75% and white at 65%. COBs can be challenging to get a good color mix, but they're much more convenient than single puck LEDs
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Recommended top voltage on the driver chip is 48V...Power supply is a 54v Meanwell (HEP-600-54 ). High efficiency and plenty beefy.
If you wire them in parallel then you're only limited by the output wattage and the total voltage per string.
Yes.. it will change the voltage on a sting till mA setpiont is reached. Then will regulate from there.However, The driver will limit what voltages it can take?
Call it driver losses.. Needs a voltage differential of 3V..or so..depending on the driver..Their dual driver chips seem to only allow up to 48v input and after their voltage drop out out 45v.
Not that's a bit tricky.. Easiest way is just add up the mA of your drivers to guess at the current capacity needed.So in theory I could put 3x channel 1's on a single driver. I get 2 drivers per chip so if I wanted all 4 channels separated for dimming purposes I would need 2x of their dual driver chips for three full power 48w acrostar leds off a single 48v power supply (assuming I can find a large enough ampacity psu.
More of a minor issue..more important if the driver uses linear chips that suck upp the extra voltage the old way i.e heat..I suppose the next question then is, they note max efficiency is when input and output voltages almost match.
ehhh. usually it's more of a power supply thing than a driver thing though they both do that a bit.And then at that point my efficiency is then going to be going down as each driver is then less loaded?
you can do whatever you want as long as the V(f) adds to be under max voltage of the driver at that current..Although their description says a pair of dual driver chips can power 5 of these? I guess they combine channels?
Am i reading the driver description correctly as well. I can tune each individual drivers current output with an onboard potentiometer?
Is it common for this type of lighting application to wire them in parallel?
In text book examples of parallel circuirts with wall supply power sources, all loads will see the same voltage, but current varies. How does that work out with a current limiting driver?
I have to imagine parallel wiring presents alot more wire to manage and dress up as well
Hmm. My understanding is 9-56v input and 2-52v output for these driversRecommended top voltage on the driver chip is 48V...
Seems to work for you but def. not recommended
Sorry, thought you were referring to the bluacro ones..which the op was considering..Hmm. My understanding is 9-56v input for these drivers
which is why i selected that particular power supply.... Am I missing something here?
Oh, OK. I thought for a minute I had picked the wrong PS here.Sorry, thought you were referring to the bluacro ones..which the op was considering..
Just skimmed your post
My bad..
you fry them when you raise th potential (voltage) high enough that they draw too much current and over heat .Meanwell makes the ldh line of drivers that can step voltage up.
At what point do you fry leds? I realize most are using/need 3.3v. i know these volt drops add in series. So if you theoretically need 120v for the string, doesn't the first led in series see the full 120v? Or due to the nature of the LEDs, they take their 3.3v and pass the rest along since they are not operating like a resistor?
There still has to be some kind of safe upper voltage limit due to insulation/isolation of the circuit pathways within the diode and on the chip.
When a junction gets warmer, the current through it at a given voltage will increase. The increased current in turn heats the junction further, and the problem gets worse. Eventually, if nothing limits the current, the junction will fail due to the heat. Because of thermal runaway, it’s important to use some current limiting circuit even with a regulated voltage source. A current limiting resistor is the typical solution for most hobbyists, while circuit designers may prefer to use a current source based on one or more transistors.