DIY Roller Mat Filter

mawhins

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Ok so I've been coveting a roller mat filter and when I look at them (as I do with pretty much anything) I think to myself, that's just some acrylic with a motor doohicky and simple float switch, I'm not paying that much for one of those. They're actually quite expensive here in Australia - $600 for the SK-3000.

So I thought I'd document the process I follow and hopefully others will find it interesting or even useful. I haven't done any drawings I'm just going with the flow.

The Body

I have some 5mm acrylic that is painted and manky but am using that for a prototype and for working out how best to shape this stuff. I started by making a wooden template and routing the acrylic using a trim bit. That worked pretty well but you have to be careful with how you feed it into the bit. I had it kick back a couple of times and have since decided it's not work trying to do intricate things like slots this way. I'm now thinking I'll just drill holes for the axles instead of slots. Will be more of a pain when swapping the rolls but that's ok.

IMG_20200527_124913.jpg


Drive Roller
I've spent a bit of time on the motor drive cylinder thingy. I've used a basic 12v geared motor that runs at 36rpm. I've only tested using a 9v wall wort so far but works well. This has an acrylic disc that I made a keyed hole in using a Dremel and needle files and I glued a slightly larger disk to that made out of a thong (Flip flop in America I believe). I fashioned some rings that sit around the motor and keep it centred within a piece of PVC pipe. The motor will be fixed to the carcass of the filter and the outer cylinder will rotate just like the real one. I've purchased an sk3000 filter roll so am working to that. For the feed roller I'm just planning on using the same PVC pipe but blocked out to fill the cardboard tube of the filter roll with more thong rubber (Flip flop rubber and yes I mean the footwear, I now have an old pair with big holes in the heel!). Photos attached, I have a video but not able to upload at the moment. Hope this helps, keen to hear how you're going with your project if you're still going on it.

Photos: Inside view of the drive roller showing the rubber insert that drives the outer tube, A shot of the motor in a teflon ring around which the outer tube rotates and a shot of the household items that have made the ultimate sacrifice for this project.

IMG_20200524_174920.jpg
IMG_20200524_174913.jpg
IMG_20200527_125707.jpg


Here is a video of the drive roller moving.

Feed Roller
The feed roller is just more of the 50mm PVC and inserts made from the teflon cutting board. I've made padding rings out of the thongs that go around the pvc and fill out the inner diameter of the roller mat tube so that's pretty straight forward. Only concern I have is that there may not be enough friction on that and that might be a thing. Not sure if needs to be held taught by the feed roller not spooling forward of its own accord. We'll see.

Well that's where I'm up to. Will keep adding to this thread as I make progress. I'm working on ways to make teflon dowels which I can then turn into screws/bolts. I probably should just order some nylon ones online. My dowel jigs have so far failed.
 
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mawhins

mawhins

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Made some good progress over the weekend. Got the body setup and the rollers running. Check it out:
By far the most painful part of this was routing the diamond shaped grid to make the grills on the sides and bottom. Took me all day mainly because I only made a template for a single diamond then had to align it and screw it down before routing the shape. It's not pretty and I'd definitely do it differently next time, it should work though.
 

Daniel@R2R

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Cool! Following along!
 
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mawhins

mawhins

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Added the overflow cutout and the float switch bracket.

Cutout:
I just drilled a circle for the overflow, a rounded rectangle would have looked cooler though. The scratches in the clear acrylic are from me removing some paint with a chisel. I tried buffing them out but was taking ages to moved on and told myself "its a prototype".
IMG_20200603_130211.jpg
Float Switch Bracket (front):
I tapped a thread to the body of the filter to hold the float switch bracket but I later realised I should have tapped the thread into the bracket so I don't have to reach inside to get to the screw and also so the thumb screw head had no chance of interfering with the float switch. Lessons to apply to MkII! Might also need a second screw to stop it rotating.
IMG_20200603_130230.jpg
Float Switch Bracket (back):
Getting pretty good at bending and working acrylic if I do say so myself. The finished products look so good. Such a sense of satisfaction when you make something out of acrylic.
IMG_20200603_130251.jpg


So next is plumbing and then real-world testing. I've just worked out that I need to buy specialist plumbing to match up to the stuff my drain pipe is made out of so will have to wait until I can make the hour drive to the only store I can find that stocks it. Hopefully this weekend. So close to no socks... Hopefully.
 
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mawhins

mawhins

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Well I got it in and running, sort of. It's a super tight squeeze because of the elbow to the bulkhead. I couldn't drop straight down to the elbow and instead I need it to be offset so will need two half elbows to give me some manouverability. Because I tend to be a bull at gate I just had to get it running today so I've cobbled together a connection using pool hose and other bits and pieces.

So I guess I won't know if it's working until it get clogged. Right now though it's sooo noisy I'm not sure I can leave it in. There seems to be two new sources of noise, a trickling sound, probably because the water is negotiating a bend now, and a gurgling, burping kind of sound as the air that is mixed in to the drain to stop it forming a siphon escapes from the spreader at the end in the filter.

Here's a quick video, I'll post a better one after I clean my sump (I've got an infestation of pineapple sponges at the moment).
 
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aruns

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Hi, very nicely done and clean looking build.

Mind answering a few questions?
- is the white material in the body also acrylic and have you just glued them all together with acrylic cement, including acrylic rods?
- are you driving the motor directly from the power supply with the float switch in series?
 

robbyg

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Love the project. Looks great and seems to be working well.
The only thing that worries me is the motor speed seems to be too fast. At the moment your pickup spool is very thin and just starting, so one revolution of the motor only pulls in maybe 4-6 inches of fleece. As you get nearer to the end of the new fleece roll the old fleece roll will have a big diameter and one revolution will move a lot of fleece from the other roll and that speed may cause issues.
Amazon has a ton of geared DC motors for sale that are cheap and heavy duty with low RPMs. If you have an issue check those out.
 
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mawhins

mawhins

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Hi, very nicely done and clean looking build.

Mind answering a few questions?
- is the white material in the body also acrylic and have you just glued them all together with acrylic cement, including acrylic rods?
- are you driving the motor directly from the power supply with the float switch in series?
No problems! Thanks for the interest.
- The white material is acrylic. The holes are cut from a single sheet using a router. I have just glued all the panels together to form a rectangular box and the rods are just press-fitted into through holes. They're a tight fit so no chance of them sliding out but I could push them out if I wanted to for some reason. I thought about making them spin freely to reduce the pressure/torque required on the moto but didn't in the end.
- Yes the motor circuit is very simple, float switch on the positive lead in series. I have a reef-pi and thought about going down that path. I might later but for now just a dumb system.
 
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mawhins

mawhins

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Love the project. Looks great and seems to be working well.
The only thing that worries me is the motor speed seems to be too fast. At the moment your pickup spool is very thin and just starting, so one revolution of the motor only pulls in maybe 4-6 inches of fleece. As you get nearer to the end of the new fleece roll the old fleece roll will have a big diameter and one revolution will move a lot of fleece from the other roll and that speed may cause issues.
Amazon has a ton of geared DC motors for sale that are cheap and heavy duty with low RPMs. If you have an issue check those out.
Yeah me too, I think I mentioned that in an earlier post. This one is 30rpm and the only other youtube build I could find the guy was using a 3rpm motor. As you say they're cheap and I can swap if I need to. I didn't change immediately because I thought that the real impact is that the motor will just be active for a shorter period but I guess that depends on how quickly the water level drops and the float switch resets.
 

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