Dosing Pumps & Check Valves

[siggy]

I'm finally hooking up a dosing pump and ditching Kalk. I seen that some are installing check valves
on there dosing lines and I understand that additives are dripping or running out the end of the output. So shouldn't the check be at the end of the line? Is this necessary? my concern would be corrosion and failure of air CV that are used. Thinking that a programmed offset would due. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks

 

[Water Dog]

I have actually never heard of anyone using a check valve for dosing lines. By design, a quality peristaltic dosing pump should have no issues with back siphoning as the roller mechanism pinching the internal rubber tube should prevent that. In fact, the precipitation build up, especially in the Alk line would probably render a check valve useless. I use BRS dosing pumps without check valves and have never had any problems.

 

[scuzy]

A quality pump does not siphon. Now I read those cheaper ones do. There is a thread about a 169.99 wifi doser that does.

 

[chipmunkofdoom2]

A quality pump does not siphon. Now I read those cheaper ones do. There is a thread about a 169.99 wifi doser that does.

I don't know if this can necessarily be determined by the cost of the pump. I made a few DIY pumps with $10 peristaltic pumps off Ebay and they never backsiphon. The tubing inside the dosing heads split before they start backsiphoning. Likewise, my 4-head Jebao, the cheapest of the cheap, doesn't backsiphon either.

 

[Greybeard]

I have one of those cheap WIFI dosers. I've had no problems with it... BUT... I paid attention to how I set it up.

My dosing containers are (just) below water level on a shelf next to the sump, dosing tubes are firmly attached in the sump ABOVE water level. If it does siphon, it's going to flow back into the containers, and it's not going to take tank water with it. To the best of my knowledge, it's never happened, but even with a 'good' doser, I would set it up this way. What happens if your expensive doser breaks? Yes, indeed, it's possible for it to siphon, just as it is with a cheap one. If you set it up right, it won't really matter if it does siphon. Put those dosing reservoirs up on a shelf above your sump... if something goes wrong, you're going to dump ALL of whatever is in that reservoir into your tank.

Plan for failure... it'll happen eventually.

 

[Greybeard]

Oh, on the original subject... I don't trust check valves. Ever. You want to use them to minimize impact, reduce risk, etc? Fine. Really count on them working, with the results of their failure causing catastrophic damage to your system or your home? DON'T DO IT!

 

[JoshKReef]

I have one of those cheap WIFI dosers. I've had no problems with it... BUT... I paid attention to how I set it up.

My dosing containers are (just) below water level on a shelf next to the sump, dosing tubes are firmly attached in the sump ABOVE water level. If it does siphon, it's going to flow back into the containers, and it's not going to take tank water with it. To the best of my knowledge, it's never happened, but even with a 'good' doser, I would set it up this way. What happens if your expensive doser breaks? Yes, indeed, it's possible for it to siphon, just as it is with a cheap one. If you set it up right, it won't really matter if it does siphon. Put those dosing reservoirs up on a shelf above your sump... if something goes wrong, you're going to dump ALL of whatever is in that reservoir into your tank.

Plan for failure... it'll happen eventually.

This thread made me think of me wanting to install check valves, maybe someone can give me some advice. Hopefully this isn't considered stealing his thread, because I think it applies.

I quickly did this picture in paint, because I am at work.

Imagine a red sea 350 cabinet with the sump on the left and I added a shelf on the right to hold my doser, with the containers below.

My doser is an aquamedia (https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/aquamedic-reefdoser-evo-4-dosing-pump-aqua-medic)

I have a problem with my output lines getting tons of air in them, to the point where I need to prime them 1-2 times a week. I tried to put them in the water, and I can see water slowly creeping up, but it never gets past the dosing head back to the bottle.

If I do not put them under water, I never see the liquid drop into the sump, so does it have to be going back to the bottle?

Any advice?

 

[siggy]

Likewise, my 4-head Jebao, the cheapest of the cheap, doesn't backsiphon either.

Thats what I have, Any tips or tricks with that unit? ..Just to be clear
I think the output side after the pump is draining resulting in a larger dose at times and a short dose at others. I have to think that the total volume would be Minimal unless dosing a small tank...so that leadsme to this question...Submerge the output lines in the sump or suspend? Fyi my containers will be on the floor under the pumps,

 

[siggy]

This thread made me think of me wanting to install check valves, maybe someone can give me some advice. Hopefully this isn't considered stealing his thread, because I think it applies.

I quickly did this picture in paint, because I am at work.

Imagine a red sea 350 cabinet with the sump on the left and I added a shelf on the right to hold my doser, with the containers below.

My doser is an aquamedia (https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/aquamedic-reefdoser-evo-4-dosing-pump-aqua-medic)

I have a problem with my output lines getting tons of air in them, to the point where I need to prime them 1-2 times a week. I tried to put them in the water, and I can see water slowly creeping up, but it never gets past the dosing head back to the bottle.

If I do not put them under water, I never see the liquid drop into the sump, so does it have to be going back to the bottle?

Any advice?

YUP..YUP..YUP

 

[Greybeard]

I had the same issue. Check connections in the dosing lines for air leaks. Those little barbed fittings that most makers use before and after the dosing head are notorious for leaking air. I bought a bag of 1/4" hose nylon hose clamps off of Amazon, like 25 of them, for just a few bucks. No more air in my lines.

 

[chipmunkofdoom2]

Thats what I have, Any tips or tricks with that unit? ..Just to be clear
I think the output side after the pump is draining resulting in a larger dose at times and a short dose at others. I have to think that the total volume would be Minimal unless dosing a small tank...so that leadsme to this question...Submerge the output lines in the sump or suspend? Fyi my containers will be on the floor under the pumps,

Nope, no special tips. I just calibrated each head, hooked it up, and it's been working flawlessly since. I would not submerge the outputs. This does not really solve any problems if your lines are leaking from a poor seal in the pump head. Plus with alkalinity at least, you will likely get some precipitation in the line as the saltwater mixes with the high-alkalinity fluid in the tube. This could eventually lead to clogging.

I would personally test each line that you suspect is leaking. Move your dosing onto an empty head, empty the suspected line, then fill the lines with RO/DI. Leave the head alone for a few days, then observe. If a significant amount of fluid is leaking, you will be able to tell.

Greybeard's advice is also good, make sure you're not leaking at the barbed connections.

 

[JoshKReef]

I did try zip ties, and still had the issue, but I may not have been able to tighten them fully? I had trouble getting them off though, so I'm not sure.

 

[JoshKReef]

I had the same issue. Check connections in the dosing lines for air leaks. Those little barbed fittings that most makers use before and after the dosing head are notorious for leaking air. I bought a bag of 1/4" hose nylon hose clamps off of Amazon, like 25 of them, for just a few bucks. No more air in my lines.

The 1/4 inch clamps worked? Do you know what their min clamping diameter is? I think airline tubing is 3/16.

I can get these locally, but their min is .246.

 

[Greybeard]

The 1/4 inch clamps worked? Do you know what their min clamping diameter is? I think airline tubing is 3/16.

I can get these locally, but their min is .246.

The ones I ordered show a minimum of .22", the silicone dosing hose on my cheap doser is 3/16 ID, 1/4" OD. Worked great.

 

[siggy]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078GJ2PB9/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AYI27JSX7SHMW&psc=1
I think this should cover anything that arises

 

[Greybeard]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078GJ2PB9/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AYI27JSX7SHMW&psc=1
I think this should cover anything that arises

Not a bad way to go... I've always ordered the specific size I needed, but having a variety on hand might be a good thing one day.

I think the ones I bought were like $7 for 10. Not a prime item, but had free shipping just the same.

 

[JoshKReef]

If you have grainger where you live, you can buy 10 packs of all of those for a lot cheaper. And not have to wait for shipping.

 

[siggy]

If I order 1 size it will be the wrong one:confused:

 

[JoshKReef]

https://www.grainger.com/category/snap-grip-hose-clamps/hose-clamps/pneumatics/ecatalog/N-1825

2-3 bucks for a 10 pack of each size.

 

[siggy]

https://www.grainger.com/category/snap-grip-hose-clamps/hose-clamps/pneumatics/ecatalog/N-1825

2-3 bucks for a 10 pack of each size.

Ill check it out, I have an account there I rarely use because they are 30% more. But when you need it they have it.

Hey @pelphrey Hows your dosing pump working? Did you have problems keeping primed or were they draining.