Did you drop any of the housings at some point? Could have developed a hairline fracture leading to bypass at the seal. The seals themselves can be damaged but unless your really Mishandling them and tossing them around they should be fine.
Eating Up RO Membranes
- Thread starter flyfisher2
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OP
OP
Total chlorine 0-10 ppm and free chlorine 0-20 ppm.
Not a problem hopefully you get this worked out, replacing RO membranes isn't fun, especially when you've done it more in the last year then you should be doing in 5-10 years...
While you wait for the orders I'd give it a go with the unit inside after purging the line for a bit, and see how the numbers compare. Without making any changes for now other than location.
OP
OP
Can't remember dropping but not 100% sure. I ordered a new one. Should be here early next week
OP
OP
I'll se what I can do tomorrow. I need 150 gallons of water for my new build and I have two Brutes full right now
They are cheap and easy enough to swap, when you get this figured out if that housing is ok you can add a piggyback for only the price of yet another RO membrane!!
OP
OP
You think that will make a difference? Are we assuming the membrane may still be good?
Depending on the accuracy of those chlorine strips and the lighting for your interpretation of the color change your carbon filters may be fine. In which case it could be the high temps and since that is relatively easy to check I would do that next while you wait on the new membrane housing.
The membrane may be ok, do you have a manual or auto flush?
OP
OP
manual flush
josephxsxn
Mixed Reef Peninsula
Your making large amounts of water at once right? Not letting the unit turn on just to make like half a gallon and turn off, to then make just another half a gallon over and over?
When you do turn on to make water do you open the bypass (waste water outlet) and let it run full open for maybe 30 seconds before closing it off to start making your water?
When you do turn on to make water do you open the bypass (waste water outlet) and let it run full open for maybe 30 seconds before closing it off to start making your water?
Do you ever check your TDS going into the membrane? It's not likely, because if this were the case I think you would know, but maybe you have a fracture on your water line and your getting unusually high TDS into the membrane and by chance the membrane is still operating within it's states efficiency of ~96-98%
Again not at all what I think is your problem but knowing the incoming TDS doesn't hurt.
OP
OP
I'll check in the morning and post the results.I know the water usually reads in the 250's from the tap. The flush is a "when I remember" I'd say one a month for about 5-10 minutes.
That would be part of your problem, may not be the complete problem but it is a contributing factor.
The length is fine and can be scaled back, but the frequency needs increased. Should be done at startup and in best practice ~30 minutes to an hour depending on flow rates and production, and then again post production.
Perform a good 5 minute flush in the morning after purging the line and then check all your values and post back. We'll get this figured out.
josephxsxn
Mixed Reef Peninsula
Oof, yeah always open your bypass (wastewater) up for a while when you start making water. I think this could be some of your issue. I open mine up until I see the TDS start to drop again that's being output from the RO unit
OP
OP
When you do yours do you disconnect any hoses or just let all run as normal but all to waste water?
All those rejected particles that aren't getting flushed down the brine line are sitting on your membrane which will lead to a premature failure of your membrane.
Overtime the particulates will puncture and lead to bypass of the membrane.
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