Emperor and Bicolor Angels sick

bruno3047

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Too risky on the bath?
Kanaplex is probably going to make your water quality a little cloudy. Maybe a lot cloudy. Maybe some ammonia. I was trying to avoid that with the bath. But I’m worried about that bicolor. That’s a delicate fish, and he may not make it through the bath. It’s a tough call but it’s your call.
 
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Aronsaquarium

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I hear that, thank you for the heads up there
Let me see what he looks like in the morning
Hopefully the better water quality will help him improve

i guess yeah if he was too weak the only option would be to treat in its home
 

bruno3047

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Read up on the Kanaplex. I gave you the instructions how to do the bath. Do like you said. Make a decision in the morning after you sleep on it and you’ve had a chance to assess the situation and think about it. Here’s a link to the Kanaplex website. Read the FAQ

 
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Aronsaquarium

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Just an update,
The Emperor has eaten a regular amount today :)
All the fish are currently eating less I’d assume because of the PraziPro..
And the Bicolor I don’t think ate any food as far as I was able to tell, but he’s taking little pecs at the rocks so I’m hoping he’s getting some nutrition there?

the Emperor’s tail hasn’t gotten visibly worse than overnight, and with the bicolor, alot of the white fluff went away, now it just looks like an open (pink) wound..
I’m hoping this means the water quality is helping them recover?

with Prazi, how long does it take for the tanks full appetite to come back?
I know it’s most potente the first 48 hours.. does that mean that after that they should start to get that back stronger?
Or do I have to fully take it out with carbon
 

bruno3047

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Just an update,
The Emperor has eaten a regular amount today :)
All the fish are currently eating less I’d assume because of the PraziPro..
And the Bicolor I don’t think ate any food as far as I was able to tell, but he’s taking little pecs at the rocks so I’m hoping he’s getting some nutrition there?

the Emperor’s tail hasn’t gotten visibly worse than overnight, and with the bicolor, alot of the white fluff went away, now it just looks like an open (pink) wound..
I’m hoping this means the water quality is helping them recover?

with Prazi, how long does it take for the tanks full appetite to come back?
I know it’s most potente the first 48 hours.. does that mean that after that they should start to get that back stronger?
Or do I have to fully take it out with carbon
Looks like good news on those fish. I hope they continue to heal. My guess is that in seven days the prazi has completely or almost completely precipitated out of solution or lost its efficacy. New carbon might be a good idea when you’re ready to finish the Prazi treatment.
 
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Aronsaquarium

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Looks like good news on those fish. I hope they continue to heal. My guess is that in seven days the prazi has completely or almost completely precipitated out of solution or lost its efficacy. New carbon might be a good idea when you’re ready to finish the Prazi treatment.
I hope it’s good news, they still have to heal but I’ll keep a close eye on them..
And will treat if needed

so essentially after 7 days it shouldn’t have any effect on their appetite?
I can put in carbon too, but if it doesn’t effect them anyways at that point, it’s not a must to put the carbon in?
 

bruno3047

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I hope it’s good news, they still have to heal but I’ll keep a close eye on them..
And will treat if needed

so essentially after 7 days it shouldn’t have any effect on their appetite?
I can put in carbon too, but if it doesn’t effect them anyways at that point, it’s not a must to put the carbon in?
That’s correct. I’ve had some, but not a whole lot of experience with prazipro. It’s been years since I’ve used it so maybe someone will chime in with something from a more recent experience. But in my experience, after seven days all the effects of the prazipro should be gone.
 

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I hope it’s good news, they still have to heal but I’ll keep a close eye on them..
And will treat if needed

so essentially after 7 days it shouldn’t have any effect on their appetite?
I can put in carbon too, but if it doesn’t effect them anyways at that point, it’s not a must to put the carbon in?
You might want to do a water change when you’re finished with the Prazi.
 

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I want to add 2 cents - with no debate - perhaps to help others in a similar situation:

1. Freshwater dips - can be done with RODI or tap-water, but the standard recommendation is to dechlorinate tap-water first. Chlorine in drinking water can be up to 4 ppm, parasites are not affected by it in a 5 minute bath - but its possible that gills, etc can be adversely affected. Part of this depends on the presence of chloramine, and chlorine in your local water IMHO its not worth the potential risk.
2. Bicolor angels CAN be notoriously difficult to feed. Before purchase - I would observe them at an LFS - make sure they are eating, etc, if able.
3. The fin damage on the emperor can be ammonia (if the fish was exposed to high ammonia with or without infection - and it can also be a primary infection secondary to transport or bullying, etc. In any case quick treatment with an antibiotic (broad spectrum) can be life-saving.
4. There has been a lot of talk/need for people to treat in their DT with various remedies on the forum recently. I think it bears repeating that MOST of the drugs recommended for treatment should be used in a hospital tank. Any fish I buy, I've observed at an LFS for at least a couple weeks before bringing them home - if I was buying from an online source - I would definitely invest in a QT system - that can also be used as a hospital tank. My LFS also QT's fish prior to sale.
5. Before treating with medications, etc - try to be as sure as you can be that what you're doing is 'correct'. Follow the directions - and once embarking on a 'plan' - its often best to stick with that plan - unless the fish is clearly worse, or there is clearly another disease process present.

Again - I don't want to debate - but I think this thread brings up a lot of potential issues - that when/if people read - may help others with similar problems.
 

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I want to add 2 cents - with no debate - perhaps to help others in a similar situation:

1. Freshwater dips - can be done with RODI or tap-water, but the standard recommendation is to dechlorinate tap-water first. Chlorine in drinking water can be up to 4 ppm, parasites are not affected by it in a 5 minute bath - but its possible that gills, etc can be adversely affected. Part of this depends on the presence of chloramine, and chlorine in your local water IMHO its not worth the potential risk.
2. Bicolor angels CAN be notoriously difficult to feed. Before purchase - I would observe them at an LFS - make sure they are eating, etc, if able.
3. The fin damage on the emperor can be ammonia (if the fish was exposed to high ammonia with or without infection - and it can also be a primary infection secondary to transport or bullying, etc. In any case quick treatment with an antibiotic (broad spectrum) can be life-saving.
4. There has been a lot of talk/need for people to treat in their DT with various remedies on the forum recently. I think it bears repeating that MOST of the drugs recommended for treatment should be used in a hospital tank. Any fish I buy, I've observed at an LFS for at least a couple weeks before bringing them home - if I was buying from an online source - I would definitely invest in a QT system - that can also be used as a hospital tank. My LFS also QT's fish prior to sale.
5. Before treating with medications, etc - try to be as sure as you can be that what you're doing is 'correct'. Follow the directions - and once embarking on a 'plan' - its often best to stick with that plan - unless the fish is clearly worse, or there is clearly another disease process present.

Again - I don't want to debate - but I think this thread brings up a lot of potential issues - that when/if people read - may help others with similar problems.
+1 to all of this. Broad DT treatments often lead to additional problems
 

bruno3047

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I want to say something and I also don’t want any debate. Telling someone that he should have treated his fish in a quarantine tank when it’s been clearly established that he doesn’t have a quarantine tank or the resources to establish a quarantine tank, is not helpful.
 

MnFish1

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I want to say something and I also don’t want any debate. Telling someone that he should have treated his fish in a quarantine tank when it’s been clearly established that he doesn’t have a quarantine tank or the resources to establish a quarantine tank, is not helpful.
Just for the record - if you're referring to my post - I did not mean to infer that the OP should do anything. I said I'm posting this for OTHERS - who may be thinking about going the route of the OP and not QTing or observing their fish before putting them in the display tank. So. -if the OP got the impression that I was criticizing what he did - I was not.
 
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Aronsaquarium

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Thank you so much!
So yes I can’t do a QT atm. And I wish I had a LFS that properly quarantined their fish, it would make life so much easier.. but I’m on my 4th LFS and all don’t do it..
I guess where I live the demand is too high for them

My Emperor seems to be eating well, only pellets though.. he’s not really touching the frozen food much. But he should be getting pretty good nutrition from the pellets and the bits of frozen shrimp he touches on occasion

His fins don’t seem to be getting ripped anymore, and the white blotches which I have no idea what they are seem to be getting smaller. So I really hope he’ll be able to pull through.

I did up the Cupramine over the last 2 days in the tank as I think I see a few spots on him which would make sense if his immune system was weakened earlier this week. So hopefully this will protect him while he regains his strength.
My Foxface has been dark a lot today.. I assume he’s still getting used to the copper?
I think he did the same for a day when I put copper in last time

My bicolor though is tricky.. I think his pretty large wound is starting to seal and calm a little, though he lost a bunch of scales in the process so I’m sure it’s gonna take time to come back.
My issue is still his feeding, either he’s eating more than I realize off the rocks even though he’s not going for food when I feed the tank.
Or idk how he’s still alive..
I’m not sure if this is smart or potentially fatal but I just separated him in the DT. I have a clear quarantine section about a gallon maybe in size with holes in it.

i want to try to get him to eat/ monitor him without my Coral Beauty chasing him around.
But I’m not sure if this is potentially taking him away from his only food source, the algea on the rocks.
Or if this will actually help him bigger picture to start eating

i think it’s a risk any way I put it, but wondering your thoughts?
 
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Aronsaquarium

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Here’s a pic
 

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vetteguy53081

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Just an update,
The Emperor has eaten a regular amount today :)
All the fish are currently eating less I’d assume because of the PraziPro..
And the Bicolor I don’t think ate any food as far as I was able to tell, but he’s taking little pecs at the rocks so I’m hoping he’s getting some nutrition there?

the Emperor’s tail hasn’t gotten visibly worse than overnight, and with the bicolor, alot of the white fluff went away, now it just looks like an open (pink) wound..
I’m hoping this means the water quality is helping them recover?

with Prazi, how long does it take for the tanks full appetite to come back?
I know it’s most potente the first 48 hours.. does that mean that after that they should start to get that back stronger?
Or do I have to fully take it out with carbon
Adding aeration when treating with prazi helps as prazi reduces oxygen and appetite. Typical treatment is 8 days, then water change and 8 more days. At that point you will see increase in appetite. A fish not eating but pecking on glass and rocks is an indicator it wants to eat. If you can find live brine, may be a good enticer for feeding
 

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