Discussion in 'Fish Disease Treatment and Diagnosis' started by Humblefish, Jan 31, 2015.
Day 19 of going fallow to treat white spot from my PBT. The pods in my DS think its awesome! Lol
Humble...just want to tell you that my fallow period seemed to work well to eradicate the velvet on my Kole and potentially on the ff (who never showed it)...after the 6 week period, everyone went back to the 65 after a major wc...almost a week now...wish me more luck...Thanks...
Hi! Im a little confused so I hope you can help me out here. A fallow period refers to leaving the display without fish to starve out a parasite such as velvet. So, I'm wondering how a fallow period eradicated velvet from a fish? Did you treat the fish in a QT then return said fish to the display after the fallow period? I'm sorry, I probably misunderstood your post and wanted to clarify in case I missed something.
^^ This. I'm confused too.
Exactly what I did...copper for weeks...thanks to you as well and say "hi" to Lauren...
Lol. That's what I thought. I knew I was misunderstanding the post. I'll tell her you said hi!
I reached out to Dr. Colorni, who co-authored the article which established the "72 day rule" for ich. Here is my email to him:
I am writing to you regarding this article you co-authored back in 1997: http://link.springer.com/article/10.1023/A:1018360323287
The part I have a question about is quoted below:
And also this section:
As I am sure you are aware, 72 days is an unusually long time to take for theronts to excyst from tomonts. In most other studies I've seen, 35 days was the longest time it took for theront release. Do you think the cooler 20C water temperature was directly responsible for the prolonged excystment period?
I am needing this information to help determine what might be the proper fallow period if a marine aquarium was infected with Cryptocaryon. I thought less than 72 days might be sufficient if the aquarium was being maintained at a more "reef-like temperature" of 25C, for example. Your expertise in this matter would be greatly appreciated.
Dr. Colorni graciously took the time to respond to me and his reply can be found below:
Thank you for your (continuous) interest in my work.
Undoubtedly, low temperature slows down Cryptocaryon’s metabolism and thus lengthens its life cycle. Indeed 72 days were an exceptional period, but it occurred with the aid of antibiotics in a sterile flask. In nature (and in an aquarium), over more than two months, I would expect bacteria to “gnaw” on the tomont and eventually damage it.
In conclusion, a combination of “reef-like” temperature and non-aseptic conditions should make a quarantine period “less than 72 days”. How long such period should be presumed to be safe remains a difficult question. The bug has millions of years of evolution on its side...!
Sorry I can’t give you a more clear-cut answer.
Keep up the good work,
Angelo Colorni, Ph.D., Senior Scientist
Retired ! Former Head, Dept. of Pathobiology
National Center for Mariculture
Israel Oceanographic and Limnological Research
- P.O.Box 1212, Eilat 88112, Israel
Research Website: www.ocean.org.il
Life is a whim of several billion cells to be you for a while.
Without a clear-cut answer, I feel it is advisable to continue to go fallow for 72 days (actually 76) for marine ich.
I just had to go through a fallow period on my main tank as well. Lost a few fish before I got the QT up and everyone dosed in copper, but some did survive. All surviving fish have been put back in DT along with the new (and QT'd) additions.
One observation though, I did leave my corals in the DT as recommended but I noticed a total crash of nitrates in the tank by the end of the fallow period, which ended up costing me some of my Zoa's and a few others. I really hadn't put that into my routine to check (I'm still very much a noob) but I was wondering if maybe that is something worth mentioning/adding to the initial posting? I followed everything as best as I could (including going longer than even the 76 days) but didn't even THINK about the nitrates dropping to nothing affecting the corals.
Other than this, the fallow period and a solid QT now in place has my DT and "refugium" tank clean and disease free for the moment, so I appreciate all the guides to both going fallow and setting up a reliable QT system.
You are absolutly right! you must keep feeding your tank and monitoring No3 and Po4 levels drastic changes are not good.
Hadn't considered No3 and Po4 levels dropping drastically during a fallow period. Thanks @jsiker for the heads up!
What do you think about dosing ammonia during the fallow period every few days to feed the nitrifying bacteria
The ammonia alert is what you use? Never had luck with them.....maybe I'll need to try them again! Maybe I've been using them wrong or they were old.. Thanks for the post for them!
Fishless tanks are one of the hardest things to have and for 76+ days it seems impossible...but the benefits outweigh the lack of movement in the tank
Thanks as alway @Humblefish for the posting this!
I think you may have misunderstood me , when the DT tank is fallow for 76 days there's nothing for the nitrifying bacteria to eat so when you add back the fish from qt you may have an ammonia spike. So during the fallow period dose ammonia to the DT so the nitrifying bacteria don't die off. Dose thank make sense?
This can easily be accomplished by feeding the corals a couple times a week. That's all that's needed to keep the bio filter going.
I think you quoted me by accident...
I am a week and a half into a fallow period. I apologize if this was covered and I missed it , but if the DT tank must sit fallow for 76 days then should the QT stay at therapeutic levels of copper for 76 days?
No. the copper levels stay there for 30 days. Observation and feeding happens for the rest of the time.
Very good reading Thanks
Separate names with a comma.