Freshwater Dip

Brew12 · Aug 1, 2018

Rahul1129 said:
When i buy a fish first i should acclamate the fish or first i should do a freash water deep??

I feel that you should acclimate them first. I would prefer them to be safely adjusted and eating before dipping them.

Humblefish · Aug 1, 2018

Brew12 said:
I feel that you should acclimate them first. I would prefer them to be safely adjusted and eating before dipping them.

^^ Agree

TomBlakee · Nov 6, 2018

I have a tang that is really struggling this evening. Panting and looks like it’s on it’s last legs.

I think it is velvet and don’t have the QT or meds, and going to get them tomorrow to begin QT on the tank.

Is it worth a go or will that finish it off? The tang didn’t eat today and hasn’t been swimming at all,

Thanks

Brew12 · Nov 6, 2018

TomBlakee said:
I have a tang that is really struggling this evening. Panting and looks like it’s on it’s last legs.

I think it is velvet and don’t have the QT or meds, and going to get them tomorrow to begin QT on the tank.

Is it worth a go or will that finish it off? The tang didn’t eat today and hasn’t been swimming at all,

Thanks

I would do the dip. If he doesn't survive the dip then imo he wouldn't live long enough to be treated. If he does survive the dip he may get enough of a break from the parasite to give treatment a chance.

Good luck, and I'm sorry you are going through this!

HotRocks · Dec 10, 2018

This Sticky (Original Post) has been edited with new info. Reflecting up to date procedures and currently available products etc.

ReefWithCare · Apr 1, 2019

Hi There,

I'm going to need to do for some new additions coming in. Can I use RODI water?

They are coming in straight from LA overnighted to me. I'm going to have the RODI water preheated to 78 degrees in a one gallon bucket before I get started.

Going to FW Dip + Rally then transferring them to QT that will start with 1.0PPM Copper Power. I'll ramp to 1.75PPM over 3 days.

Additions will be a wrasse, clownfish, and blenny. The sand for the wrasse in the bowl has been in copper in the past.

HotRocks · Apr 1, 2019

You will want to use RODI water. Make sure you use an airstone in both the dip and the rally bath. It's best to aerate both for a few minutes prior to adding fish.

ReefWithCare · Apr 1, 2019

HotRocks said:
You will want to use RODI water. Make sure you use an airstone in both the dip and the rally bath. It's best to aerate both for a few minutes prior to adding fish.

Shouldn't be a problem. I have a separate heater for med dips now

. I've always used an airstone --- the heater was the issue in the past but no more

.

Oh - there is a fun thing with this shipment - 2 are from 1.025 water and the other is 1.020 water.

I have the QT set to 1.023 right now. I heard you can't really drip overnight fresh because of ammonia in the bag + with dips you can't really drip accumulate unless I use a third bucket.

HotRocks · Apr 1, 2019

ReefWithCare said:
Shouldn't be a problem. I have a separate heater for med dips now . I've always used an airstone --- the heater was the issue in the past but no more .

Oh - there is a fun thing with this shipment - 2 are from 1.025 water and the other is 1.020 water.

I have the QT set to 1.023 right now. I heard you can't really drip overnight fresh because of ammonia in the bag + with dips you can't really drip accumulate unless I use a third bucket.

I would just lower your QT and bathwater to 1.020, its not and issue float and release fish into lower salinity. Only an instant increase can cause osmotic shock. So anytime I have this same senario I just set everything to the lowest arriving salinity, float and release.

ReefHog · Apr 1, 2019

HotRocks said:
I would just lower your QT and bathwater to 1.020, its not and issue float and release fish into lower salinity. Only an instant increase can cause osmotic shock. So anytime I have this same senario I just set everything to the lowest arriving salinity, float and release.

Very good info

ReefWithCare · Apr 2, 2019

HotRocks said:
I would just lower your QT and bathwater to 1.020, its not and issue float and release fish into lower salinity. Only an instant increase can cause osmotic shock. So anytime I have this same senario I just set everything to the lowest arriving salinity, float and release.

Thanks HotRocks. I got the tank down to 1.020.

How long should I take to raise it back up?

HotRocks · Apr 2, 2019

ReefWithCare said:
Thanks HotRocks. I got the tank down to 1.020.

How long should I take to raise it back up?

Just top off with saltwater instead of RODI. Monitor salinity as you go and switch to fresh once you reach desired salinity.

Martinc2 · Apr 26, 2019

Hi does anyone have experience of prazi and other medication resistant flukes. I am currently bathing 4 days apart initially have removed 10 large flukes they are about 10 mm with black hooks at the head end. Been in 1.009 hypo as well which did not eradicate them.

HomeSlizzice · May 9, 2019

Quick questions @Humblefish @HotRocks

Is pH buffering with sodium bicarbonate no longer suggested? Just heating and aeration?

I am wanting info for both:
1. normal fresh water dips
2. medicated fresh water dips (Methylene Blue or Rally).

What if dips are longer than 5 minutes, like 10-15 minutes?

HotRocks · May 9, 2019

HomeSlizzice said:
Quick questions @Humblefish @HotRocks

Is pH buffering with sodium bicarbonate no longer suggested? Just heating and aeration?

I am wanting info for both:
1. normal fresh water dips
2. medicated fresh water dips (Methylene Blue or Rally).

What if dips are longer than 5 minutes, like 10-15 minutes?

FW dips should not exceed 5 min.

MB/Rally used as a bath should be added to SW not fresh. You can buff your pH if necessary. For FW dips temp and we'll aerated water are the most important part IMO.

ngoodermuth · May 10, 2019

Martinc2 said:
Hi does anyone have experience of prazi and other medication resistant flukes. I am currently bathing 4 days apart initially have removed 10 large flukes they are about 10 mm with black hooks at the head end. Been in 1.009 hypo as well which did not eradicate them.

Do you have any photos? Might not be flukes at all... 10mm is pretty big

HomeSlizzice · Jun 21, 2019

Follow up question... If one doesn’t want to use any meds for flukes. Could I simply do freshwater dips every other day for 8-10 days straight? This should eliminate all adults and possible eggs based on the life cycle correct? Especially if doing TTM or a QT with aggressive micro filtration.

Am I correct in my thinking?

HotRocks · Jun 21, 2019

HomeSlizzice said:
Follow up question... If one doesn’t want to use any meds for flukes. Could I simply do freshwater dips every other day for 8-10 days straight? This should eliminate all adults and possible eggs based on the life cycle correct? Especially if doing TTM or a QT with aggressive micro filtration.

Am I correct in my thinking?

I would not dip a fish that frequently first of all. Second, it's not a guarantee that every single worm will detach during the dip. It will remove most of them, but not a 100% guarantee to get all of them.

A single FW dip isn't harmful. Dipping a fish every other day for several days could create problems.

If you don't want to medicate your better option is to run hyposalinity.

HomeSlizzice · Jun 21, 2019

HotRocks said:
I would not dip a fish that frequently first of all. Second, it's not a guarantee that every single worm will detach during the dip. It will remove most of them, but not a 100% guarantee to get all of them.

A single FW dip isn't harmful. Dipping a fish every other day for several days could create problems.

If you don't want to medicate your better option is to run hyposalinity.

Good to know!

HomeSlizzice · Jun 21, 2019

Also has there been any updated information on the hydrogen peroxide studies?

I know this article ( http://fisheries.tamu.edu/files/2013/09/Monogenean-Parasites-of-Fish.pdf )that was referenced in the flukes page mentions it, and I also know it’s something @Humblefish has been working on.