Gilroy 425g Build Thread (All Apex, all the time)
- Monster Build
- Thread starter Terence
- Start date
- Tagged users None
OP
OP
Recirc 24/7. Co2 is 24/7 but switched on/off based on pH level.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Thanks. Right now I am running at 7.0-7.05 with a throughput of about 75ml/min. Keeping my DKH around 8.6-8.8
Johnseye
Reef Addict
That ph is pretty low. I haven't read through your back history but a degassing column for caRx, air filtering through lime pellets for your skimmer and ensuring good co2 exchange can all help you get it up to the 8+ range.
That is his calcium reactor pH, not tank pH.
Johnseye
Reef Addict
Doh! Thanks Russ. Would help if I read clearly.
Toomnymods
Active Member
Terence I love the fact that Neptune is creating a alk monitoring device and would love to add this to the rest of my Neptune devices on my 220 gallon reef. How long till this is available to the market? Just wondering if it's a few months away or possibly a year? if it's over a year out I'll probably just get a KH Guardian..
Reefer525XL
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2017
- Messages
- 834
- Reaction score
- 604
I know Terence didn't want his build thread to become a Q&A about future Neptune products but Im also interest in finding out about this
Sorry Terence I had to take advantage of the opportunity and ask.
Chris155hp
Well-Known Member
Just curious what your final say is on running the Dos to feed or pull (which is better in your opinion) your calcium reactor? A buddy and I are looking to possibly run our Ca reactors this way and are on the fence between the Dos (which we already have ) vs say the Pac Sun CalcFeeder Pro Pump. Our tanks are 160 gal and 180gal and both running VERTEX RX-C 6D. If the Dos would work, what programing did you find works best? Maybe Neptune can have the software team work on a Calcium Reactor profile for the Dos which takes out the guesswork of setup, just a simple Xml per day evenly spread out over 24 hours. Thanks in advance
You'd probably want to feed the reactor to keep the buildup to a minimum in your tubing.
ReeferBud
Active Member
Terrence,
Thanks for all the info shared in this thread.
I've just bought an Aquamaxx TS-3 denitrator and would like to learn more about how you feed it with the DOS and how you control the flow based on ORP.
Do you have continuous flow through the Rx with the DOS? I thought the DOS wasn't suited for continuous flow and was better for intermittent flow. What would you say is the max daily flow through the DOS without significantly impacting the life of the heads.
I'm interested in doing the Bnc adapter thing to be able to read the negative ORP on my Apex. Do you know how this works?
Great thread and build! I'm In the middle of cycling my new 450G and have taken quite a few tips from your build.
Thanks for all the info shared in this thread.
I've just bought an Aquamaxx TS-3 denitrator and would like to learn more about how you feed it with the DOS and how you control the flow based on ORP.
Do you have continuous flow through the Rx with the DOS? I thought the DOS wasn't suited for continuous flow and was better for intermittent flow. What would you say is the max daily flow through the DOS without significantly impacting the life of the heads.
I'm interested in doing the Bnc adapter thing to be able to read the negative ORP on my Apex. Do you know how this works?
Great thread and build! I'm In the middle of cycling my new 450G and have taken quite a few tips from your build.
OP
OP
I would like to reiterate that what I am doing with my NS equipment are experiments and should not be construed as endorsements of using it for the purposes described here in my thread.
If you do a crossover of the wires on the ORP, you will be reading negative ORP, yes.
Thanks for tagging along!
If you do a crossover of the wires on the ORP, you will be reading negative ORP, yes.
Thanks for tagging along!
OP
OP
OK, its been a little while since I have posted about any new gear changes on the reef, so it's about time!
As those who have read my thread know, I am using a lot of macro-algae in my sump as a nutrient export method. To date I have been lighting that with a spare Kessil A360W. It has been doing very well. However, I thought I could do better.
I then watched the series of videos by BRS on nutrient reduction using macroalgae and the lighting choices they tested.
I also spoke to David from Kessil back when I attended RAW and he recommended I use two of A380 just like Ryan recommended in his video.
So I decided to make it happen. The Kessils arrived yesterday. I took them down to the Fish Cave and got ready to install them. I removed the A360 from the sump. I had used the standard gooseneck to attach it and that worked really well so I decided to do the same for the A380.
First I must say that the packaging that the A380 came in is excellent. So well packaged I cannot imagine they ever have any damage to these in transit.
Using the gooseneck requires you to remove the hanging ring and attach the bracket by removing two screws, putting them back through the bracket, and then screwing it back into the light. If you want to hang the light from a cable the light comes with a couple of screw hooks you can use.
I assembled the brackets for the gooseneck and then added the optional 90-degree bracket which makes mounting the light easier so you do not have to bend the gooseneck so far.
Once on the tank I zip tied the wires and then connected the power supplies to my EB832. I turned on the outlets and then selected "grow" on the lights (they are made for horticulture so they have two settings - "grow" and "bloom" each of which have their own spectrums). The EB832 showed the lights using 94W each.
Also, before I installed them I decided to do a major thinning to the macro-algae. You can see some before and after shots below.
Now I just wait and see how the volume and quality of the macro does! I think I am going to get at least double the production-rate.
I would have uploaded more images, but with the new file uploader here on R2R it's just too much of a pain now. Sorry.
As those who have read my thread know, I am using a lot of macro-algae in my sump as a nutrient export method. To date I have been lighting that with a spare Kessil A360W. It has been doing very well. However, I thought I could do better.
I then watched the series of videos by BRS on nutrient reduction using macroalgae and the lighting choices they tested.
I also spoke to David from Kessil back when I attended RAW and he recommended I use two of A380 just like Ryan recommended in his video.
So I decided to make it happen. The Kessils arrived yesterday. I took them down to the Fish Cave and got ready to install them. I removed the A360 from the sump. I had used the standard gooseneck to attach it and that worked really well so I decided to do the same for the A380.
First I must say that the packaging that the A380 came in is excellent. So well packaged I cannot imagine they ever have any damage to these in transit.
Using the gooseneck requires you to remove the hanging ring and attach the bracket by removing two screws, putting them back through the bracket, and then screwing it back into the light. If you want to hang the light from a cable the light comes with a couple of screw hooks you can use.
I assembled the brackets for the gooseneck and then added the optional 90-degree bracket which makes mounting the light easier so you do not have to bend the gooseneck so far.
Once on the tank I zip tied the wires and then connected the power supplies to my EB832. I turned on the outlets and then selected "grow" on the lights (they are made for horticulture so they have two settings - "grow" and "bloom" each of which have their own spectrums). The EB832 showed the lights using 94W each.
Also, before I installed them I decided to do a major thinning to the macro-algae. You can see some before and after shots below.
Now I just wait and see how the volume and quality of the macro does! I think I am going to get at least double the production-rate.
I would have uploaded more images, but with the new file uploader here on R2R it's just too much of a pain now. Sorry.
120reefkeeper
Reef keeping with Military Precision!
Just a quick question for you Terence. Do those lights put off a lot of heat?
OP
OP
Probably 10W is lost at the power supply so that means that about 84w of heat is given off at the light. Some of that radiates down from the light, and some blows up from the cooling fan. Regardless, if you put these in an enclosed area, the temp will go up unless adequate venting is provided - but that is the case with ANY light - LED or otherwise.
You don't happen to have a PUR meter do you? Ryan mentioned that they put off like 1300 PAR but I was wondering how that equates to PUR.
OP
OP
I have our PMK and I planned on taking it down there to get a couple of measurements sometime in the future.
photiczoner
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2017
- Messages
- 17
- Reaction score
- 11
With that huge, well-lit sump, are you growing any macro that you then feed back to your tangs? If so, what kind other than chaeto? Just curious!
Great thread, it's been a blast watching your tank progress. Love my apex and automation saves my bacon every week I'm traveling -which is a lot.
Great thread, it's been a blast watching your tank progress. Love my apex and automation saves my bacon every week I'm traveling -which is a lot.
OP
OP
One type in there they might like, never tried, I really don't want it to get a chance to take root in the display. Many of the other types of "tasty" macro have the possibility of going sexual. That's a total nightmare.
Similar threads
