Guide to the Triton Method

Jeves360

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I am currently dosing 10ml a day of all 4 parts. I have them split between 4 hrs. 12:00 part 1 @ 5ml, 12:30 part 1 @ 5ml, 13:00 part 2 @ 5ml, 13:30 part 2 @ 5 ml and so on. Is it ok to dose 5ml at a time or should I dose smaller amounts at a time like 1ml every 5 min?
 

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I am currently dosing 10ml a day of all 4 parts. I have them split between 4 hrs. 12:00 part 1 @ 5ml, 12:30 part 1 @ 5ml, 13:00 part 2 @ 5ml, 13:30 part 2 @ 5 ml and so on. Is it ok to dose 5ml at a time or should I dose smaller amounts at a time like 1ml every 5 min?

This dosing schedule is fine.
 

DxMarinefish

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What is the main point(s) of having a Skimmer for the Triton method?

I understand the usual benefits of a Skimmer, so my question is specifically to do with benefits regards Triton method.

With such a reliance on the Algae (Size/Light/Flow), could not the skimmer become redundant?
 

K7BMG

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What is the main point(s) of having a Skimmer for the Triton method?

I understand the usual benefits of a Skimmer, so my question is specifically to do with benefits regards Triton method.

With such a reliance on the Algae (Size/Light/Flow), could not the skimmer become redundant?
I am on the Triton method and have an algae scrubber instead of a fuge.
I also run a skimmer.
On my system the scrubber produces lots of algae and skimmer pulls lots of skimate.
So far I do not feel either had suffered or become useless.
I do not have a heavy bioload.
 

DxMarinefish

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I am on the Triton method and have an algae scrubber instead of a fuge.
I also run a skimmer.
On my system the scrubber produces lots of algae and skimmer pulls lots of skimate.
So far I do not feel either had suffered or become useless.
I do not have a heavy bioload.

Thanks.

I have a similar system combo, but with 2x ATS and a Tunze Skimmer.

I was wondering really over the log term use what the effects would be. Its the first time i have run a skimmer in 20+ years of reefing and only got it because of issues I had which I won't go into.

How long have you had this ATS+Skimmer combo using Triton?
 

K7BMG

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Thanks.

I have a similar system combo, but with 2x ATS and a Tunze Skimmer.

I was wondering really over the log term use what the effects would be. Its the first time i have run a skimmer in 20+ years of reefing and only got it because of issues I had which I won't go into.

How long have you had this ATS+Skimmer combo using Triton?

February 3rd of this year right after the tank cycled.
Took a month to six weeks for the algae to start to grow in the ATS.
The skimmer was running but non productive until introduction of livestock and food, but this was expected.
 

jasony816

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HI I am new to the Triton Method and would like to use it for my new bare bottom SPS/LPS tank setup (RSR 425xl) that is currently cycling with about 40-50lbs caribsea live rock and have a few questions:

1. Can I use filter socks before fuge to try to keep the fuge somewhat clean?
2. Can I use bio media such as Seachem Matrix/MP/Spiorax since I am only using 40-50lb of live rock for a total water volume including tank is 112 gallons and I think I need more bio filtration.
3. When can I start adding chaeto?
4. When should I do ICP testing and dosing the CORE 7?
 

K7BMG

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HI I am new to the Triton Method and would like to use it for my new bare bottom SPS/LPS tank setup (RSR 425xl) that is currently cycling with about 40-50lbs caribsea live rock and have a few questions:

1. Can I use filter socks before fuge to try to keep the fuge somewhat clean?
2. Can I use bio media such as Seachem Matrix/MP/Spiorax since I am only using 40-50lb of live rock for a total water volume including tank is 112 gallons and I think I need more bio filtration.
3. When can I start adding chaeto?
4. When should I do ICP testing and dosing the CORE 7?


#1 Well this is a choice that IMO has no definitive answer.
I am using Core 7 with filter socks before the fuge. I like the clarity of the water the socks give me, so it works for me, but you will get just as many that say no.

#2 Yes you can have additional bio media, it would have been best to have it all in there from the start. To add it now COULD alter the cycle time.
If you add later just do it slowly if possible. Add half and in a week or two add the other half.

#3 Chaeto will most likely die off until you have a fully cycled tank, and have had fish in the tank for a month or more.

#4 Once your tank is completely cycled and you have completed the final water change and get your Nitrates down to a reasonable level. The ICP test will give you a starting baseline. Triton says to start dosing right off but with minimal amounts. Your subsequent testing of Alk, Ca, and Mag will tell you when to increase the dose as you add corals.
 

jasony816

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#1 Well this is a choice that IMO has no definitive answer.
I am using Core 7 with filter socks before the fuge. I like the clarity of the water the socks give me, so it works for me, but you will get just as many that say no.

#2 Yes you can have additional bio media, it would have been best to have it all in there from the start. To add it now COULD alter the cycle time.
If you add later just do it slowly if possible. Add half and in a week or two add the other half.

#3 Chaeto will most likely die off until you have a fully cycled tank, and have had fish in the tank for a month or more.

#4 Once your tank is completely cycled and you have completed the final water change and get your Nitrates down to a reasonable level. The ICP test will give you a starting baseline. Triton says to start dosing right off but with minimal amounts. Your subsequent testing of Alk, Ca, and Mag will tell you when to increase the dose as you add corals.
#1 If I use the socks it will be the Red Sea ones which are not felt and doesn't really filter much except for large particles. Also if I use carbon in a media bag should I put it before or after the fuge?

#2 Why would it alter the cycle, most of the bio-media I mentioned are inert (or supposedly). I would expect it to speed up the cycle with more surface area for the bacteria to grow. Reason I didn't add any at the beginning was that I was reading a lot of bad press about them leaching AL and I have never really used bio media in my previous setups as I did the min 1lb/gallon rule but now I am using like 1/2 that. Also do you have any recommendation as to which bio media would be good (MP, Matrix, Spiroax, Brightwell)?

#3 So I will start adding Cheato after the cycle and with a few fish since the bio-load will be low anyway. Any recommendation on fuge lighting, I was thinking maybe H160 or H380.

#4 I was under the impression that I should not dose at all until I have corals and as there wouldn't be any uptake of the nutrients from dosing? Also shouldn't my baseline be when I start adding corals and not when there is nothing in the tank?
 

K7BMG

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#1 If I use the socks it will be the Red Sea ones which are not felt and doesn't really filter much except for large particles. Also if I use carbon in a media bag should I put it before or after the fuge?

I don't use carbon as it effects my Kole Tang.
When I did, I had it in the return sump section, this was after everything. I don't think it matters.


#2 Why would it alter the cycle, most of the bio-media I mentioned are inert (or supposedly). I would expect it to speed up the cycle with more surface area for the bacteria to grow. Reason I didn't add any at the beginning was that I was reading a lot of bad press about them leaching AL and I have never really used bio media in my previous setups as I did the min 1lb/gallon rule but now I am using like 1/2 that. Also do you have any recommendation as to which bio media would be good (MP, Matrix, Spiroax, Brightwell)?

I don't know what these materials are made of, I too have heard some of these will leach things, mostly unwanted stuff. If its unwanted there is a reason beyond my knowledge as I am not a chemist. I pulled my Brightwell blocks and following ICP tests did reveal a drop in aluminum, and tin. So I say no on the Brightwell.

But my reasoning is I have always understood that you want all the rock sand and other bio-media in the tank from the start of the tank.
This is emphasized by WWC, BRS, and their tank start up methods. I trust their information.

The cycle takes what it takes. There is no speeding up the process.
Gestation with humans takes 9 months, dogs two months, so why most people feel that bacteria can be altered time wise, I have yet to understand.
The bacteria has to be implemented into the tank and allowed to grow and reproduce.
This gestation process is somewhere between 14 to 21 days with adding the recommended amount of the product to the tanks water and media volume.
If you add additional media days later then the calculation is off and will most likely slow the process.
There are numerus threads here on R2R about stalled cycles or cycle issues.
Many (Most) of them have a common problem of adding more media, more ammonia, more everything and then the cycle is slowed or stuck.


#3 So I will start adding Cheato after the cycle and with a few fish since the bio-load will be low anyway. Any recommendation on fuge lighting, I was thinking maybe H160 or H380.

Yes after. I can't help you on lighting, I have only used the H380, so far it has worked for me. But I have never used another light for comparison.

#4 I was under the impression that I should not dose at all until I have corals and as there wouldn't be any uptake of the nutrients from dosing? Also shouldn't my baseline be when I start adding corals and not when there is nothing in the tank?

Yes that's a true statement to a degree IMO. When you see a drop in ALK its time to start dosing according to Triton.
That said I started right after my tanks were cycled. 1Ml a day, I figured (Overthinking) I might as well get the tank introduced to all the stuff in Core 7 right from the start.

This way when it came time to acclimate and introduce coral the stuff was in there.
Thus potentially causing less stress, than once again adding additives and disrupting the stability of the water column they were used to for a few weeks.
The other reefing rule of thumb is go slow.


There is stuff in the tank, trace elements and so forth, this is what your testing with ICP.
I feel one needs to know what the baseline is of the salt mix being used.
Say you wait and test three months after addition of livestock and dosing.
It comes back with high element reading on Cobalt. Well was that from dosing, coral, maybe the food your using? Or is your salt mix high in Cobalt from the start?
 

jasony816

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#1 If I use the socks it will be the Red Sea ones which are not felt and doesn't really filter much except for large particles. Also if I use carbon in a media bag should I put it before or after the fuge?

I don't use carbon as it effects my Kole Tang.
When I did, I had it in the return sump section, this was after everything. I don't think it matters.


#2 Why would it alter the cycle, most of the bio-media I mentioned are inert (or supposedly). I would expect it to speed up the cycle with more surface area for the bacteria to grow. Reason I didn't add any at the beginning was that I was reading a lot of bad press about them leaching AL and I have never really used bio media in my previous setups as I did the min 1lb/gallon rule but now I am using like 1/2 that. Also do you have any recommendation as to which bio media would be good (MP, Matrix, Spiroax, Brightwell)?

I don't know what these materials are made of, I too have heard some of these will leach things, mostly unwanted stuff. If its unwanted there is a reason beyond my knowledge as I am not a chemist. I pulled my Brightwell blocks and following ICP tests did reveal a drop in aluminum, and tin. So I say no on the Brightwell.

But my reasoning is I have always understood that you want all the rock sand and other bio-media in the tank from the start of the tank.
This is emphasized by WWC, BRS, and their tank start up methods. I trust their information.

The cycle takes what it takes. There is no speeding up the process.
Gestation with humans takes 9 months, dogs two months, so why most people feel that bacteria can be altered time wise, I have yet to understand.
The bacteria has to be implemented into the tank and allowed to grow and reproduce.
This gestation process is somewhere between 14 to 21 days with adding the recommended amount of the product to the tanks water and media volume.
If you add additional media days later then the calculation is off and will most likely slow the process.
There are numerus threads here on R2R about stalled cycles or cycle issues.
Many (Most) of them have a common problem of adding more media, more ammonia, more everything and then the cycle is slowed or stuck.



#3 So I will start adding Cheato after the cycle and with a few fish since the bio-load will be low anyway. Any recommendation on fuge lighting, I was thinking maybe H160 or H380.

Yes after. I can't help you on lighting, I have only used the H380, so far it has worked for me. But I have never used another light for comparison.

#4 I was under the impression that I should not dose at all until I have corals and as there wouldn't be any uptake of the nutrients from dosing? Also shouldn't my baseline be when I start adding corals and not when there is nothing in the tank?

Yes that's a true statement to a degree IMO. When you see a drop in ALK its time to start dosing according to Triton.
That said I started right after my tanks were cycled. 1Ml a day, I figured (Overthinking) I might as well get the tank introduced to all the stuff in Core 7 right from the start.

This way when it came time to acclimate and introduce coral the stuff was in there.
Thus potentially causing less stress, than once again adding additives and disrupting the stability of the water column they were used to for a few weeks.
The other reefing rule of thumb is go slow.


There is stuff in the tank, trace elements and so forth, this is what your testing with ICP.
I feel one needs to know what the baseline is of the salt mix being used.
Say you wait and test three months after addition of livestock and dosing.
It comes back with high element reading on Cobalt. Well was that from dosing, coral, maybe the food your using? Or is your salt mix high in Cobalt from the start?
#2 I guess I should just wait for the tank to cycle as 1 week has already pass and its the start of week 2 of the cycle and maybe add more later on slowly. But my real question is do you think using 1/2 the usually recommended 1lb/gallon is sufficient as it stands right now I only have about 40lbs of rock to a total volume of 112 gallons of water and with the displacement of the rock its probably less then 112 gallons. This is the first time I am setting up a tank that uses less then 1lb/gallon of rock and I just dont want any issues down the road.
 

K7BMG

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#2 I guess I should just wait for the tank to cycle as 1 week has already pass and its the start of week 2 of the cycle and maybe add more later on slowly. But my real question is do you think using 1/2 the usually recommended 1lb/gallon is sufficient as it stands right now I only have about 40lbs of rock to a total volume of 112 gallons of water and with the displacement of the rock its probably less then 112 gallons. This is the first time I am setting up a tank that uses less then 1lb/gallon of rock and I just dont want any issues down the road.

This will depend on the amount of livestock you decide to add.
Continued testing of Ammonia and Nitrates will tell the story.
 

jasony816

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What is the point of having a skimmer in the Triton Method if the Fuge is supposed to be the main filtration system? In addition, If the fuge is so efficient at stripping away nutrients in the tank as seen in BRS investigates regarding the performance of fuges, do we even still need a skimmer? I would like to know your opinion as I can drop the skimmer section and just have a even bigger fuge are if it works better then a skimmer?
 

K7BMG

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Its all relative.
Yes the Triton method is based off the fuge.
But that does not mean no other filtration should not be used.

I do not believe that one filtration type can do it all.
Thats why we have so many for different things.
Fuges
Skimmers
GFO reactors
Carbon reactors
UV sterilizers
Filter socks.
 

minus9

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Can anyone that has used the Triton Method for longer then a year give a pros/cons and any advice/recommendation or things to look out for?
I initially tried "other methods" but was unsuccessful and found that my parameters were all over the place and certain elements were high, while others were low. I stopped using Triton and started dosing 2 part and had immediate positive results. I then bought a calcium reactor and things got much better. I now use a different method that utilizes trace elements and everything is taking off.
I'm not saying Triton doesn't work, it just didn't work for me. My experience was just like Mike Paletta's, I wanted to try something different and new, but it just didn't work out.
 

jasony816

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I initially tried "other methods" but was unsuccessful and found that my parameters were all over the place and certain elements were high, while others were low. I stopped using Triton and started dosing 2 part and had immediate positive results. I then bought a calcium reactor and things got much better. I now use a different method that utilizes trace elements and everything is taking off.
I'm not saying Triton doesn't work, it just didn't work for me. My experience was just like Mike Paletta's, I wanted to try something different and new, but it just didn't work out.
Why was your parameters all over the place? Doesnt the Triton Method require you to send it water for ICP testing periodically and tell you what you need to do? I would like to know that even if you follow what the ICP test tells you to do would it not work? Also would you equate the Triton Method to Zeovit in terms of adjusting and dosing a bunch of trace elements etc with the main difference being carbon dosing/zeo rocks instead of the fuge?
 

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