Help New Tank Looking For Suggestions

[matthew.forsyth01]

So basically I'm brand new to this hobby so go easy on me sorry mods if this in the wrong thread

here's what happening I've setup my tank which I will list exact specs of what I have below as I'm reading on the internet everyone's saying I should start with high ammonia low nitrate and low nitrite but what's happened is I have high levels of all three ill also list the rough level of those below I use the API test kit that tests PH aswell but my ph. and salt levels are good I used API Quickstart and my LFS had some of his similar product made in house basically his saltwater with bacteria's in it I here's where I believe I went wrong first my lfs sold me 2 baby clown's told me to add these 24hrs after the Quickstart so I did I'm now reading this could have been bad but not tank ruining? I also purchased 2 live rocks and about 10 pounds of dry/dead rock its white and has some purple dead coral looking stuff on it. I also used regular tap water not filtered because I don't had a RODI system yet that is also a concern of mine. I have Ammolock and have dosed it once because the high ammonia scared me sorry if I'm all over the place trying to cover everything if you have any other questions ill do my best to answer within my ability

But my 2 baby clowns do see fairly healthy they roam around the tank eat when I feed them without hesitation ECT

My Tank Spec's
40 Gal Breeder Tank
Aqueon Quiet Flow 40
ViaAqua 200-Watt Quartz Glass Submersible Heater
Small Chinese 80gph Pump (For Circulation)
NICREW 36 Watt Light (Its Off Currently was told to keep it off during cycle)

My Tank Level's
PH: 8.1
AM: 8ppm
Nitrate: 40ppm
Nitrite: .3ppm
salinity: 1.025

 

[lapin]

I used regular tap water not filtered because I don't had a RODI system yet that is also a concern of mine.

Chlorine is a problem with tap water.

Used API Quickstart
Purchased 2 live rocks and about 10 pounds of dry/dead rock its white and has some purple dead coral looking stuff on it.
I have high levels of all three
AM: 8ppm
Nitrate: 40ppm
Nitrite: .3ppm

The ammonia level is a problem if that high.
Where did it come from?
Did your LFS test your water to be sure the reading is correct?
At 8ppm your clowns would be dead. So i suspect it is not 8.
Bacteria in a bottle plus live rock = no ammonia unless you are adding it

 

[matthew.forsyth01]

The ammonia level is a problem if that high.

That's what I thought from what I've figured out from my googling

Where did it come from?

I'm assuming you mean the ammonia and my only guess would be the tap water?

Did your LFS test your water to be sure the reading is correct?

My "lfs" is over an hour and half away I was just there I didn't even think to bring water for him to test ill do that when i go Monday as he doesn't open on weekends.

At 8ppm your clowns would be dead. So I suspect it is not 8.
Bacteria in a bottle plus live rock = no ammonia unless you are adding it

I definitely haven't added any ammonia other than my clowns waste but they've been for 74ish hours I would assume they would have died by now by high ammonia


This may sound very ignorant but I've gone through my budget for the month but would getting a RODI Fix my problems? or am I playing a waiting game are there additives to help until I get proper cycling? I was told I could wait for RODI but I could have been told wrong (Petco guy that sold me the tank who did the salt water stuff said I could wait) sorry for all the questions and that I don't have many clear answers just trying to understand it all

And Thank You For The Response

 

[Fish Think Pink]

So basically I'm brand new to this hobby so go easy on me sorry mods if this in the wrong thread

here's what happening I've setup my tank which I will list exact specs of what I have below as I'm reading on the internet everyone's saying I should start with high ammonia low nitrate and low nitrite but what's happened is I have high levels of all three ill also list the rough level of those below I use the API test kit that tests PH aswell but my ph. and salt levels are good I used API Quickstart and my LFS had some of his similar product made in house basically his saltwater with bacteria's in it I here's where I believe I went wrong first my lfs sold me 2 baby clown's told me to add these 24hrs after the Quickstart so I did I'm now reading this could have been bad but not tank ruining? I also purchased 2 live rocks and about 10 pounds of dry/dead rock its white and has some purple dead coral looking stuff on it. I also used regular tap water not filtered because I don't had a RODI system yet that is also a concern of mine. I have Ammolock and have dosed it once because the high ammonia scared me sorry if I'm all over the place trying to cover everything if you have any other questions ill do my best to answer within my ability

But my 2 baby clowns do see fairly healthy they roam around the tank eat when I feed them without hesitation ECT

My Tank Spec's
40 Gal Breeder Tank
Aqueon Quiet Flow 40
ViaAqua 200-Watt Quartz Glass Submersible Heater
Small Chinese 80gph Pump (For Circulation)
NICREW 36 Watt Light (Its Off Currently was told to keep it off during cycle)

My Tank Level's
PH: 8.1
AM: 8ppm
Nitrate: 40ppm
Nitrite: .3ppm
salinity: 1.025

Clown fish are TOUGH fish, which is why your LFS said to use them to cycle. Cycle takes time, and your ammonia not at zero means you are still unstable/new. As you've read, ammonia is needed to get nitrites, nitrites are needed to get nitrates, but your nitrates are already so high that you should be considering water change. Your tap water is probably giving you nitrates so your next purchase is either buying jugs to start buying your RO water from LFS or buying your RO/DI system to make water at your house. Depends on your immediate budget & tolerance for water change delays & work (and tank size... bigger tanks need more water to get 10% water change). It all works out. You seem on the right tracks and doing the right things. Just tweaking little here or there. In this hobby, go slow. Only bad things come from going fast. Once your ammonia goes to zero and your nitrites also zero, then cycle is done for the bio load you have. Each addition will increase causing mini cycle, so always go slow.

 

[Fish Think Pink]

That's what I thought from what I've figured out from my googling


I'm assuming you mean the ammonia and my only guess would be the tap water?

My "lfs" is over an hour and half away I was just there I didn't even think to bring water for him to test ill do that when i go Monday as he doesn't open on weekends.

I definitely haven't added any ammonia other than my clowns waste but they've been for 74ish hours I would assume they would have died by now by high ammonia


This may sound very ignorant but I've gone through my budget for the month but would getting a RODI Fix my problems? or am I playing a waiting game are there additives to help until I get proper cycling? I was told I could wait for RODI but I could have been told wrong (Petco guy that sold me the tank who did the salt water stuff said I could wait) sorry for all the questions and that I don't have many clear answers just trying to understand it all

And Thank You For The Response

would not go down path of water additives... begins slippery slope. If your budget lets you get a RO/DI system, then best path forward. You'll only need new filters every 6 months or so, depending how much water you make. You can deal with replacement filters (and a TDS (Total Dissolved Solids measuring device) in 6 months

 

[Fish Think Pink]

Chlorine is a problem with tap water.


The ammonia level is a problem if that high.
Where did it come from?
Did your LFS test your water to be sure the reading is correct?
At 8ppm your clowns would be dead. So i suspect it is not 8.
Bacteria in a bottle plus live rock = no ammonia unless you are adding it

agree 8 PPM concerning ammonia level

 

[matthew.forsyth01]

Clown fish are TOUGH fish, which is why your LFS said to use them to cycle. Cycle takes time, and your ammonia not at zero means you are still unstable/new. As you've read, ammonia is needed to get nitrites, nitrites are needed to get nitrates, but your nitrates are already so high that you should be considering water change. Your tap water is probably giving you nitrates so your next purchase is either buying jugs to start buying your RO water from LFS or buying your RO/DI system to make water at your house. Depends on your immediate budget & tolerance for water change delays & work (and tank size... bigger tanks need more water to get 10% water change). It all works out. You seem on the right tracks and doing the right things. Just tweaking little here or there. In this hobby, go slow. Only bad things come from going fast. Once your ammonia goes to zero and your nitrites also zero, then cycle is done for the bio load you have. Each addition will increase causing mini cycle, so always go slow.

would not go down path of water additives... begins slippery slope. If your budget lets you get a RO/DI system, then best path forward. You'll only need new filters every 6 months or so, depending how much water you make. You can deal with replacement filters (and a TDS (Total Dissolved Solids measuring device) in 6 months

Thank You for all the insight I will definitely be purchasing a RODI system over the weekend seems like ill be needing it long term anyway when looking for a RODI is there anything particular to look for I've seen them as cheap as 70 and high as almost 1,000 are there any major difference's I should look for?

Thank You again

 

[Jekyl]

Welcome to R2R! I'd recommend an RoDi as soon as possible. Until you get it buy premixed water from your LFS and do a large water change to get your levels in order. Like 75% or more. Problem with tap water is that all the bad things stick to your rocks and sand and will build over time.

 

[Fish Think Pink]

Thank You for all the insight I will definitely be purchasing a RODI system over the weekend seems like ill be needing it long term anyway when looking for a RODI is there anything particular to look for I've seen them as cheap as 70 and high as almost 1,000 are there any major difference's I should look for?

Thank You again

LOL - I don't know enough to answer, but can share this link to the one I have... forgot it is rated at 100 gallons per day and it makes half (or less) that, but perhaps how we've plumbed it off my washing machine water line is part of the problem. Like not having to keep it in kitchen.
https://www.melevsreef.com/product/100gpd-5-stage-rodi-system -it retails for $200 but I got it for $100 from a guy leaving hobby because his personal life drama. Also got his 55 gallon vertical tank, jugs, left over filters, ... got lucky on his package RO/DI deal.
Bulk Reef Supply also sells them. I'm sure there are tons of recommendations once you start to google. Recommend *IF* you eventually get a tank to make water so not just going into a bucket setting in sink, then pickup a water leak sensor from your local home improvement store. I use a 'Watch Dog Water Alarm' aka water dog my term - its in the hot water tank aisle for cheap. There are better ones with more features, but mine works for me.

Start by getting one. Keep it simple. Then maybe move it somewhere better once you realize what works for you. You are on the right track, asking the right questions, seeking to do the right things! MANY Success Stories are in your future!!

 

[Jekyl]

I went from a cheap 4 stage and eventually got the BRS 5 stage RoDi. That's the one I would recommend. It comes with a built in TDS meter so you can be sure the water is clean.

 

[lapin]

I definitely haven't added any ammonia other than my clowns waste but they've been for 74ish hours I would assume they would have died by now by high ammonia

You are correct. It would not take long.

This may sound very ignorant but I've gone through my budget for the month but would getting a RODI Fix my problems?

Prob not fix everything. It really depends on how bad your water is. Normally chlorine is the worst thing in drinking water. If you are getting 8ppm ammonia it is not healthy for you and not normal.

 

[matthew.forsyth01]

Well a update for everyone both the clows have passed away so im gonna use this time to get everything good RODI wise and make sure everything is setup properly im gonna build a sump out of my extra 10 gallon tank and get a better system on that end instead of using the filter on the powerhead i have so wish me luck

 

[Brady4000]

Well a update for everyone both the clows have passed away so im gonna use this time to get everything good RODI wise and make sure everything is setup properly im gonna build a sump out of my extra 10 gallon tank and get a better system on that end instead of using the filter on the powerhead i have so wish me luck

Sorry for your loss.

The RODI will make your life so much easier. Also depending on how much room you have, you can pick up a blue 55g drum cheap off offer up. Just make sure to wash it out.

RODI’s make water at a snails pace, having a large storage container filled up with pre-made water is definitely a win.

I don’t keep fresh RODI water in mine, I turned it into a salt mix station. You want to mix your salt 48 hours before adding it to the tank, or it will be hard on the live stock.

Edit: But if you have nothing in the tank, you can add the saltwater as soon as you want.

Also you do not *need* livestock to cycle a tank. Google “Fishless Cycle”.

good luck!!

 

[Brady4000]

I also purchased 2 live rocks and about 10 pounds of dry/dead rock

Also you might want to think about adding a little more rock. I have always been told 1lb of rock per gallon. This will help with the bacteria growth.

Edit: I forgot to ask, do you have a wave maker or bubbler to agitate the top water for oxygen?

These videos



And having R2R answer questions to my particular situation, set me up for success!

again, Good Luck and welcome to the hobby!