How do my parameters look?

[Pennywise the Clown]

I agree that vibrant is most likely your culprit but I did check the par on your settings. Now my 26’s are on a 29 gallon biocube and they’re spaced pretty close together. With both on I measured this

And this with only 1 unit on

Thank you very much.
What do you think is the best way of raising par?
I was thinking of upping my blues by a couple of percent every day.
I'm not a fan of too much white.

 

[Pennywise the Clown]

How high are they from the water?

They are 10'' off the water. Unfortunately there is no adjustment on the Red Sea mounts.

 

[DEWreefing]

They are 10'' off the water. Unfortunately there is no adjustment on the Red Sea mounts.

Go on your my ai app and bring all intensity up by 4 % expect red and and green. I'm sure you know you can do them all in one shot with 2 fingers

 

[ScottB]

Exactly what I was thinking, except I had a dumber layman perspective. So basically we know corals absorb everything they need through the water column, which would have this or that product in it, which would reach the Dino/zoox (forms of algae)correct? Most likely killing the forms of algae, bc that’s what it’s supposed to do. I’ve noticed @UWC lurking on this thread so maybe they can explain it to me and everyone else. How does vibrant/mb bacter 7/flucozanole/ dinox etc kill unwanted algae but not harm other forms of the algae we’re all so desperately trying to keep alive. Surely someone as dumb as me isn’t the first person to ask this.

Not to hijack, and can't speak intelligently either, but I have read a couple of explanations on how fluconazole works. Can't find the one I was looking for, but here is Jose Mayo's explanation. Also, zoox are a dino variety. Dinos (the hated kind at least) are free swimming protists, not sessile plants like GHA, turf, bryopsis...

Jose Mayo Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 12

Fluconazole works by blocking the ergosterol synthesis pathway, a structural lipid that makes up the cell walls of fungi in general and some GREEN and BROWN algae. By blocking this synthesis of ergosterol, fluconazole renders the wall of the algae brittle and permeable, and this succumbs to the aggressiveness of the environment in which it lives. In addition, fluconazole also alters the production of diterpenoids by algae, which are the allelochemicals with which they defend against herbivores, so it is not uncommon for algae to be attacked by snails, crustaceans and fish herbivores, who previously refused to eat them. RED ALGAE has cholesterol on its walls, not ergosterol, so it's almost never affected. Some macroalgae, such as Caulerpa sp, Codium sp and Halimeda sp, may be affected by fluconazole at high dosages. Cladophoráceas, such as Cladophora sp, Cladophoropsis sp and Chaetomorpha sp are resistant, but not totally "immune" to fluconazole. ATS beds should be removed during treatment and sterilized before returning to the system, as well as all equipment used in the aquarium and that can store algae spores, otherwise they will "return" after the treatment is finished and the effect of fluconazole ceases . All animals, from protozoa to higher animals, have cholesterol in their cell membranes and do not synthesize ergosterol, so they are not affected by fluconazole even at high dosage. What can happen, and will run, if no precautions are taken, is that in aquaria where algae infestation is very advanced, and if these algae are toxic, the fauna may be affected by products released in the decomposition of these algae. In highly affected aquaria, the largest quantities of algae should be manually removed first and then treated with fluconazole to completely eradicate them.

 

[jda]

It is probably smart to know that you cannot lift just one ship with high tide. If you are destroying ergosterol in one organism, you are in others too - even if not in the same places... ergosterol is not used in cell membranes in most animals, but it can be used in bone growth, to grow beneficial symbiotic fungi, and other places. If you are boosting beneficial bacteria, you are boosting bad ones too... and taking food away from other good ones not able to compete once you disrupted the ecosystem with manual involvement (anoix or deeper bacteria will likely suffer). How does anybody know that the "magic bacteria" are not harming things since they are either 1) . not present naturally since you have to dose (alien compound), or 2). are there naturally so the product that you purchased is really unnecessary. There are consequences to everything that you do. The truth is that nobody knows enough about the side effects or unintended consequences of what any of these things are. I give major props to Jose for actually providing info rather than just a "trust me" speech like many others do.

Beyond chemicals and treatments, I have this same issue with supplements. I have no idea what is in AcroPower, so I refuse to use it. It seems safe, so I don't get on my soapbox about it... but in principle, you are trusting these people. I have less of an issue with oyster eggs, chaeto, etc, since you know what is in them.

I will only consider a "black box" when there seems to be no other option, but there are plenty of options for algae and sludge... just not ones that people want to hear like patience, nature, husbandry. KZ Flatworm Stop has been great for reliable treatment of AEFW and it is a black box... pretty much had no other choice.

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

Thank you very much.
What do you think is the best way of raising par?
I was thinking of upping my blues by a couple of percent every day.
I'm not a fan of too much white.

You’ll probably want to add some more white later on as this will be significantly more blue than what you have at the moment. This is basically what Red Sea recommends. Max out the blues v and uv, use very little to no r and g and adjust the white to your liking

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

5-6 weeks of acclimation

 

[Pennywise the Clown]

I've set my schedule up with 5 weeks acclimation.
Wow is it bright at 100% compared to the the AB+ schedule I am running currently.
I will probably have to move a couple of torch corals that will be getting too much light.
I am picking up a few frags from a local reefer on Tuesday. A Rainbow millepora, a pink millepora, a forest fire digi and a tri acropora.
He has these frags at around 250+ par in his frag tank, and as it looks like I am not getting that par in my display currently, am I right in saying that I can pretty much set them in place?
They will then acclimate to the new schedule along with my other corals?

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

Should work out perfect. I have some montiporas getting over 400 par so I wouldn’t worry about 250-300. I can’t help you the torches as I don’t have much lps. The ones I do have are shaded by acros and rocks.

 

[jda]

LPS and softies can take a LOT of light, but do not NEED it. I grow rainbow chalices, torch, bounces and some select Z&P under about 600-750 PAR and they look great and grow really fast, but they also would do "just fine" under probably 125-150 PAR although they might grow a bit slower. Just go slow and you should be OK.

 

[wranodj]

Too much flow can harm corals also, especially direct flow.

 

[Pennywise the Clown]

Too much flow can harm corals also, especially direct flow.

I have my powerheads on either end of the display, pointing at each other. They are above and in front of my sps. The convergence of flow hits them, but not directly from the pumps.
My 2 weaker pumps are on one side in pulse mode and the most powerful is on the other in random mode.
Hopefully they are getting good flow but not too much.

 

[biecacka]

Any updates in the tank?


corey

 

[Pennywise the Clown]

Any updates in the tank?


corey

Sorry, I completely missed this.
My lights have now finished their acclamation and things are starting to look good.
My Strawberry Shortcake, which I feared was going to die, is now encrusting nicely and very slowly beginning to color up. My millies are looking and growing well.
But the best thing for me is that my Garf Bonsai, which was totally brown with no polyps showing at all, is now a nice purple with good polyp extension.
I have had to double my alk dosing since raising my lighting power.

 

[Rick5]

Sorry, I completely missed this.
My lights have now finished their acclamation and things are starting to look good.
My Strawberry Shortcake, which I feared was going to die, is now encrusting nicely and very slowly beginning to color up. My millies are looking and growing well.
But the best thing for me is that my Garf Bonsai, which was totally brown with no polyps showing at all, is now a nice purple with good polyp extension.
I have had to double my alk dosing since raising my lighting power.

Nice!

Did you end up going with the light schedule @Chaswood79 recommended above?

 

[Pennywise the Clown]

Nice!

Did you end up going with the light schedule @Chaswood79 recommended above?

Yes I did.
I was worried that it might be too high for my LPS and zoas but everything is doing great. In fact, my hammers are looking better than ever.

 

[Rick5]

Yes I did.
I was worried that it might be too high for my LPS and zoas but everything is doing great. In fact, my hammers are looking better than ever.

Awesome. He helped me with my light settings as well (2 x Hydra 26HD). Solid recommendation as well with SPS improvement I attribute to the updated settings. I don’t otherwise really trust anything else @Chaswood79 recommends/says. You shouldn’t trust a man with penmanship as nice as his. (Look at some of the shots of his coral - he‘ll sometimes write the name of each coral in white at the top of each picture).

Here’s an example of what I’m referring to. Penmanship that’s so nice it distracts you from the coral he‘s showing.

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

Awesome. He helped me with my light settings as well (2 x Hydra 26HD). Solid recommendation as well with SPS improvement I attribute to the updated settings. I don’t otherwise really trust anything else @Chaswood79 recommends/says. You shouldn’t trust a man with penmanship as nice as his. (Look at some of the shots of his coral - he‘ll sometimes write the name of each coral in white at the top of each picture).

Here’s an example of what I’m referring to. Penmanship that’s so nice it distracts you from the coral he‘s showing.

I’ve got magic fingers

 

[Pennywise the Clown]

Awesome. He helped me with my light settings as well (2 x Hydra 26HD). Solid recommendation as well with SPS improvement I attribute to the updated settings. I don’t otherwise really trust anything else @Chaswood79 recommends/says. You shouldn’t trust a man with penmanship as nice as his. (Look at some of the shots of his coral - he‘ll sometimes write the name of each coral in white at the top of each picture).

Here’s an example of what I’m referring to. Penmanship that’s so nice it distracts you from the coral he‘s showing.

Ha ha.
It's a good I didn't see that before I raised my lights. I would have probably lowered them instead

 

[Rick5]

Ha ha.
It's a good I didn't see that before I raised my lights. I would have probably lowered them instead

No need to be a troll. After all, he did help you.

Some people on this forum can take a joke and some can’t, like @SeaDweller. At one point, I asked him a question about his lighting and he got defensive and turned into a cyber bully.