Hello, I've posted similarly before but am still uncertain how to get my fowlr tank definitely cleaned - I have a 55 that has ich in it (anything new added gets ich) but has a hippo tang, maroon clown and snowflake eel that have absolutely no discernible symptoms if ich. They look good, no spots, no flashing, no odd behavior.
I have a brand new freshly cycled clean tank that a porcupine puffer is in. I want to move the 55 inhabitants out so I can leave it fallow for long enough to finally get rid of the ich. How can I make certain that the fish I move aren't going to just infect the clean tank and puffer? If they have no symptoms how can I tell if they are carriers? Please help.
You're missing some information about how disease spreads and that's making it seem mysterious.
Velvet and ich seem by far the most common ailments. Both have a similar lifestyle (in fact, similar to most aquarium pests, even algae) where they "fill up" the local environment with "swarmers" – the infectious part of their lifeform. A few swarmers will be swatted down easily by a healthy fish's general immunity. But like anything, there are limits – after too many hits, the fish actually disables its immune system in a last ditch effort to survive (immunuty takes a LOT of energy and matierals that could be used for escape and healing), but there's nowhere to go in a fish tank.
Prevent the baddies from filling it up with swarmers and they have much lower odds of overwhelming your fish and cratering their immune system in the process. (This is what causes a "disease outbreak".)
The main role of meds is clearing up this condition – killing off infectious particles. But meds are obviously a bad choice for the rest of the tank.
So you're out of luck, buddy. Sorry.
Just kidding – it seems like that's what everyone else thinks so I figured I'd get it out of the way!! ;)
UV and micron filtration are both VERY effective at killing or removing (respectively) those swarmers.
I would start with a micron filter since they are cheaper and simpler....either something like Marineland's micron filters (HOB or in-tank styles!), Lifeguard also offers them, or
@Paul B 's DIY micron filter would be great.
Proper selection and installation of UV is a little more complicated and (usually) a lot more expensive, but still very doable if you think it's necessary. (Both together are VERY VERY effective.) If you look at AquaUV they have an excellent sizing guide so you get the watts and flow rates correct. If not, consider looking over
what folks have used vs dino's in my dino thread.....velvet is a dino and Crypto ("ich") is similar in size so is similarly effected by UV. (...and more by micron.) Any of the UV installations you see working there should also work for you, assuming the tank size is the same as yours. (Rule of thumb will allow you to easily find one the correct size, if not.)
There are also "tank safe" remedies that I would also suggest you consider in tandem with the UV/micron. (And to pre-answer the peanut gallery, no the tank-safe treatments don't cure anything. Not what I'm saying. Not what the products claim to do, nor what they are tested for either.
Read up! :)
Lots more where that came from too! Part of a comprehensive approach.
Sorry... I'm unsure what you are saying. How do I make sure the fish in the ich tank can be moved safely to a clean tank without infecting it as they are asymptomatic?
Weird, that almost seemed like a canned answer that might belong in a different thread. I wonder if someone is trying to automate their replies?
I’ve always heard Tangs are more susceptible because of their thin slime coats.
This might be an interesting read:
https://reefsuccess.com/2017/02/05/...pigmentation-and-immunity-in-betta-splendens/
