How To Remove Copper From DT

Steve1500 · Feb 5, 2018

Thanks! For the next set of fish, I don't want to start the copper treatment right away. I want to let the fish settle in for a few days and get some food. Will the residual copper be an issue since I did not completely remove the copper w pads/cuprisorb? I have no LR or sand in the QT, only PVC and some marbles. Just using a sponge in my HOB. Should I remove the sponge and rinse out?

Also, do I need to do a XX % water change between the copper and praz?

Much appreciated,
Steve

4FordFamily · Feb 5, 2018

Steve1500 said:
Thanks! For the next set of fish, I don't want to start the copper treatment right away. I want to let the fish settle in for a few days and get some food. Will the residual copper be an issue since I did not completely remove the copper w pads/cuprisorb? I have no LR or sand in the QT, only PVC and some marbles. Just using a sponge in my HOB. Should I remove the sponge and rinse out?

Also, do I need to do a XX % water change between the copper and praz?

Much appreciated,
Steve

I always do a 100% water change between qts or treatments when I’m done with one and starting another

Steve1500 · Feb 17, 2018

I have been reading a lot about TTM and I think I am going to switch my QT method for the next set of fish. As stated above, I have used coppersafe in my QT. I am buying two new 10G tanks for the TTM, but at the end of the TTM process, I want to transfer the fish back into my main QT (previously used w coppersafe) and observe for a short time.

Now that I am going the TTM, I assume that I will need to completely remove the copper from my QT with pads/cuprisorb/WC, right? But, should I get a brand new HOB sponge and is it ok to rinse off the HOB/PVC/thermometer etc? I am concerned that if I do, some of my bacteria for cycling will be lost. Or, will running the HOB with the copper remover get the copper off the equipment but leave the bacteria?

Also, I have what I think is diatom growth on my glass. Should I clean that off or will that remove the bacteria? I have read that it is hard to remove the bacteria, but wanted to verify.

As always, thanks in advance,
Steve

Humblefish · Feb 17, 2018

Steve1500 said:
Now that I am going the TTM, I assume that I will need to completely remove the copper from my QT with pads/cuprisorb/WC, right? But, should I get a brand new HOB sponge and is it ok to rinse off the HOB/PVC/thermometer etc? I am concerned that if I do, some of my bacteria for cycling will be lost. Or, will running the HOB with the copper remover get the copper off the equipment but leave the bacteria?

Also, I have what I think is diatom growth on my glass. Should I clean that off or will that remove the bacteria? I have read that it is hard to remove the bacteria, but wanted to verify.

You don't need to get 100% of the copper out in your main QT. Run Cuprisorb or use a polyfilter until the Cu level is no longer detectable. Those will not remove nitrifying bacteria.

You can wipe the glass down. The bacteria that is useful for breaking down ammonia is found in your QT bio filter's media. There is only a negligible amount of it in the water column/on the glass.

Steve1500 · Feb 17, 2018

Humblefish said:
You don't need to get 100% of the copper out in your main QT. Run Cuprisorb or use a polyfilter until the Cu level is no longer detectable. Those will not remove nitrifying bacteria.

You can wipe the glass down. The bacteria that is useful for breaking down ammonia is found in your QT bio filter's media. There is only a negligible amount of it in the water column/on the glass.

Thanks Humblefish, when you say QT bio filter's media, do you mean the sponge? I don't have any LR or live sand in the tank.

Also, I have never used a copper remover, do I do a XX percent WC after the copper remover?

Humblefish · Feb 17, 2018

Steve1500 said:
Thanks Humblefish, when you say QT bio filter's media, do you mean the sponge? I don't have any LR or live sand in the tank.

Also, I have never used a copper remover, do I do a XX percent WC after the copper remover?

Yes, the sponge is your primary bio-media in QT because it won't absorb meds.

I would do a 20-25% WC before starting the copper remover, to get the removal process going.

mfinn · Feb 18, 2018

Humblefish said:
You don't need to get 100% of the copper out in your main QT. Run Cuprisorb or use a polyfilter until the Cu level is no longer detectable. Those will not remove nitrifying bacteria.

You can wipe the glass down. The bacteria that is useful for breaking down ammonia is found in your QT bio filter's media. There is only a negligible amount of it in the water column/on the glass.

Why not just empty the water out? Wipe the inside out with a heavy vinegar solution, along with any other equipment used, then refill with new water and replace the sponge filter. I would squeeze the sponge a few times in a bucket of salt water to remove any detritus and residual copper.

Humblefish · Feb 18, 2018

mfinn said:
Why not just empty the water out? Wipe the inside out with a heavy vinegar solution, along with any other equipment used, then refill with new water and replace the sponge filter. I would squeeze the sponge a few times in a bucket of salt water to remove any detritus and residual copper.

If one doesn’t mind the expense of a 100% water change, go for it.

mfinn · Feb 18, 2018

Humblefish said:
If one doesn’t mind the expense of a 100% water change, go for it.

Cost of the new saltwater ( 10 gallons?) vs. the cost of polyfilter or cuprisorb.
IDK.
I was just thinking of new clean water and tank for the next round.

Humblefish · Feb 18, 2018

mfinn said:
Cost of the new saltwater ( 10 gallons?) vs. the cost of polyfilter or cuprisorb.
IDK.
I was just thinking of new clean water and tank for the next round.

Ah, did not realize he only had a 10 gal QT. If so, your suggestion is a no-brainer.

Got too much going on this morning to keep track of everything, I guess.

Steve1500 · Feb 19, 2018

Actually, the main QT is a 29G (the two TTM tanks are 10G). But even w the 29G, I think mfinn's point is still valid. Since I plan on doing a WC anyway, why not make it a 100% WC and throw in some vinegar to boot.

Thanks!!!!

mfinn · Feb 19, 2018

Steve1500 said:
Actually, the main QT is a 29G (the two TTM tanks are 10G). But even w the 29G, I think mfinn's point is still valid. Since I plan on doing a WC anyway, why not make it a 100% WC and throw in some vinegar to boot.

Thanks!!!!

I thought it was a 10 when I said that. I figured the salt usage at about $3-$4, and having new water ready for another fish.
I use to use a 29 ( actually contains 26 gallons) and just replace the water 100% after the copper treatment and the fish had been moved, figuring the salt mix was about $7-$8, but have gone to a 20 gallon tank which only contains about 16 gallons.

Steve1500 · Feb 19, 2018

For $8, I will just do the WC/vinegar and call it a day. Thanks for chiming in.

SDangerfield · Feb 24, 2018

Does copper soak into pvc? I have a uv sterilizer I would like to use on my reef tank but it was used with copper and I am concerned with copper leaching.

HotRocks · Feb 24, 2018

I don't think you have an issue there. Clean it well. Maybe vinegar soaking or bleach it. I would though, be careful running UV while copper is present as I have heard/read it can change the molecular makeup/structure of copper causing it to strengthen which could be fatal to the fish in Qt.

Humblefish · Feb 25, 2018

^^ Agree; run a 10:1 (RODI: vinegar) solution through it to clean any leftover copper residue.

SDangerfield · Feb 25, 2018

Ok, that sounds great.
I was not liking the idea of having to buy another UV because this one had copper in it.
Thank you gentlemen..

Thomashtom · Feb 25, 2018

If you remove most of live rock before treating a DT with copper my guess would be to put the rock in a 30 pail with DT water, heater and pump? Would you need to keep a light on them for a few hrs a day. I dont think you should use the rock in a another tank for fear of ich getting in that tank right? Any other suggestions because i have exhausted just about all treatments, QT, chloroquine phosphate, dosing food with vitamins and garlic, diatom filter, and i still have ich after nine months of fighting it? All of my fish (7 of them 6 inch or better) have been fighting through it so i have yet to pull the trigger and i really dont want to have to treat the DT with copper. Thanks for your help. Tom

Josh Kraft · Feb 26, 2018

Thomashtom said:
If you remove most of live rock before treating a DT with copper my guess would be to put the rock in a 30 pail with DT water, heater and pump? Would you need to keep a light on them for a few hrs a day. I dont think you should use the rock in a another tank for fear of ich getting in that tank right? Any other suggestions because i have exhausted just about all treatments, QT, chloroquine phosphate, dosing food with vitamins and garlic, diatom filter, and i still have ich after nine months of fighting it? All of my fish (7 of them 6 inch or better) have been fighting through it so i have yet to pull the trigger and i really dont want to have to treat the DT with copper. Thanks for your help. Tom

Anything that has ever been in water that had ich needs to sit for 76 days in a fishless environment to be ich free.