Idea for rockpool reef......WITH TIDES?!?!?!

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keepingfishwithnoidea

keepingfishwithnoidea

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Or set a float at the lowest the water will ever be. When it evaporates it will drop lower than that, refilling to the low line.
yeah but the problem is the pumps will not be entirly acturate so salinity might change a bit long term
 
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ok, maybe thaat means i gotta modify my diy arduino smart controller, but will probably be worth it as peristaltic pumps are pretty acurate. probably will go this way AND the salinity probe if the probe is in budget, so if one is going of it can always send me a notification :)
 
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tidediagram1.png
Screenshot 2025-01-20 102718.png
 

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because you could have your “tide” water be the ideal specific gravity. While you have another reservoir filled with ro water to adjust the salinity
 
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Are there controllers that can sense salinity and then turn on a pump?
Yes

because you could have your “tide” water be the ideal specific gravity. While you have another reservoir filled with ro water to adjust the salinity
Dont understand this yet, could you explain a little more?
 

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Hi — not where I can respond now, but ATO should not be that complicated for a system like this. There are highs and lows as well as steady states. You can use digital logic or mechanical logic. I will try to. Price back when I have time and explain.

Also, I would not rely on ChatGPT to design this system or write the code or solve problems. 1) if you don’t understand the code you are stuck with something that you can’t maintain or troubleshoot and 2) it is actually pretty poor at writing code.
 

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I will draw a diagram, when i get home next week. But let me try to reiterate, you have pump one that tests the salinity and adds extra ro water to compensate for evaporation. And however your doing your “tides” just have it be full strength saltwater
 
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Hi — not where I can respond now, but ATO should not be that complicated for a system like this. There are highs and lows as well as steady states. You can use digital logic or mechanical logic. I will try to. Price back when I have time and explain.

Also, I would not rely on ChatGPT to design this system or write the code or solve problems. 1) if you don’t understand the code you are stuck with something that you can’t maintain or troubleshoot and 2) it is actually pretty poor at writing code.
Thanks for the advise, my dad is a software devoloper and he helps me too, Also I dont rely on Chatgpt to do this, its just that i Dont have much Experience with Arduino, I saw this website that translated Block code to c++ i used that and used claude to debbug, and now The ato part is solved as i will be using a pump that will turn on when ever, the water is at its lowest and the floatswitch will just be a guard plz excuse my english, thats why i made chatgpt write somethings for me
 
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BeanAnimal

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Several notes.

Ignoring fail-safes and filtration.

Purely mechanical setup:
Tide pool has an overflow at its "high tide" level. This overflow drains back to the "sump".
This means that once "high tide" is reached, the system becomes a steady state loop. Any evaporation would be like a normal tank and sump setup with the ATO in the sump. ATO will only work during high tide, as during tide change, the sump will be fuller, even with evaporation.

When the tide changes from high to low, water is pumped form the rock pool to the sump. The overflow stops working.

When tide changes from low to high, water is pumped from the sump to the rock pool.

The only variable here is the speed (rate of flow) of the pumps doing the tide changes -- and should be accounted for in your code.


Digital setup:
There are numerous variations and as much added complexity as you wish. The "overflow" could be actuated to slowly raise and lower via a stepper and the "return pump" would be a steady state. As with the pure mechanical setup, high tide in the display would be the lowest point in the sump and where to set the ATO, just like a regular display and sump, evaporation would cause the ATO to run at high tide. Designs could be as simple as a sluice gate actuated by a stepper that leaks far less than the output of the return pump.... or as complex as an actuated intake tower that moves up and down.... or an intake on a elbow and arm that rotates through 360 degrees via a stepper controlled by the tide schedule.

The pure digital setup would consist of level switches in the display for high and low tide switchover and the sump could be mechanical ATO (again high tide) or switch activated.

These are only part of your options.

Filtration in the rock pool needs to be considered, as does temperature if it is isolated at all times except high tide.

If it were me, I would likely use two compartment display. With filtration in one compartment and no filtration in the sump. Ignoring salt creep, would prefer a dump bucket for wave action. The dump bucket would always run and the pump to drain the pull would run from high tide to low. The pump would be sized to move more water than the dump bucket per period, so that the tide pool would drain.
 
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Several notes.

Ignoring fail-safes and filtration.

Purely mechanical setup:
Tide pool has an overflow at its "high tide" level. This overflow drains back to the "sump".
This means that once "high tide" is reached, the system becomes a steady state loop. Any evaporation would be like a normal tank and sump setup with the ATO in the sump. ATO will only work during high tide, as during tide change, the sump will be fuller, even with evaporation.

When the tide changes from high to low, water is pumped form the rock pool to the sump. The overflow stops working.

When tide changes from low to high, water is pumped from the sump to the rock pool.

The only variable here is the speed (rate of flow) of the pumps doing the tide changes -- and should be accounted for in your code.


Digital setup:
There are numerous variations and as much added complexity as you wish. The "overflow" could be actuated to slowly raise and lower via a stepper and the "return pump" would be a steady state. As with the pure mechanical setup, high tide in the display would be the lowest point in the sump and where to set the ATO, just like a regular display and sump, evaporation would cause the ATO to run at high tide. Designs could be as simple as a sluice gate actuated by a stepper that leaks far less than the output of the return pump.... or as complex as an actuated intake tower that moves up and down.... or an intake on a elbow and arm that rotates through 360 degrees via a stepper controlled by the tide schedule.

The pure digital setup would consist of level switches in the display for high and low tide switchover and the sump could be mechanical ATO (again high tide) or switch activated.

These are only part of your options.

Filtration in the rock pool needs to be considered, as does temperature if it is isolated at all times except high tide.

If it were me, I would likely use two compartment display. With filtration in one compartment and no filtration in the sump. Ignoring salt creep, would prefer a dump bucket for wave action. The dump bucket would always run and the pump to drain the pull would run from high tide to low. The pump would be sized to move more water than the dump bucket per period, so that the tide pool would drain.
Good point. I will be using a in tank filter, or an external canister, just a couple of questions. in the mechanical part, the ato will only be on during high tide right?.
As for the digital one, .........Its complex but will work with enough time, a lot of waterproofing for someone with no 3d printer i guess:grinning-face-with-sweat:, I thought about doing the mmoving overflow thing before, Not a bad Idea but adds some complexity Im willing to go with, Thanks for the advice!! the end result will have at least one of these features and thats a promise:)
 

BeanAnimal

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Correct. The low water mark in a full system will be lowest in the sump at high tide. Any lower means water evaporated and will fill until the float val e or switch turns off, Bringing the system back to “full”.
 

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