Is this normal clam behavior?

[Outlaw Corals]

That’s the thing in the day the mantle is wide out, whether the mouth is open that wide or not. But I didn’t think he was starving I’ve light just because the guy at aquashella said they will reach the mantle up and out. He didn’t look like he was reaching to me. He did shift his angle to be full faced directly at the light that’s about it. I’ll inspect it when I get off work, but I thought he always looked happy until I looked after the lights went off. After lights out do they usually close up or stay open when nothing is there to asorbe

Yea you can never tell they are being light starved until it’s to late, clams close up at night for the most part, John should have asked you about your lighting before selling you a Crocea clam and suggest you go with a Derasa clam, he’s shouldn’t have said it’s easy

 

[exnisstech]

It depends what kind of clam it is, the vendors selling people these clams should be asking people about their lighting before selling people clams that require more light like the Maximas and Derasa’s

That would be nice but I think the responsibility should be on the buyer to do the research. I mean really, 10 minutes of their time here could get all the answers they need about a creatures requirments.
As far as lighting, I'm far from an expert but even my derasa needed 300+ par to thrive. My maximas get around 400.

 

[Outlaw Corals]

So these pictures don’t show it well but it still has bright white new calcifying shell. Been in the tank since awuashella Dallas so about two weeks. If it doesn’t make then I’ll hold off and do actual research. But from what I’ve looked clams can do fine at about 150 par and for my mixed reef that should be what I’m pushing according to the bra investigates. Granted I don’t have a par meter yet. Like I said. Impulse against my better judgment. Hard not to when someone says it’s super easy about something you’ve always wanted. But I’ll monitor it and send updated photos. The guy seemed real healthy. Always reactive, positions himself where he wants to be and always open during the day. I will say this morning I noticed something similar to a feather duster growing what would seem like inside the shell and not the out side. Hard to tell.

And it’s much harder to care for clams that size, go for the 3 plus inch clams, little clams that size even under the right lighting need phyto as well

 

[ItouchedThebutt]

See I’ve watched his interview and even during the interview he made it sound so simple with clams. But even reading on here after the fact I still read mixed responses that clams even need phyto to thrive at any size. They just need good lighting and flow. Which I talked to him about for 20 min describing my tank and lighting and he seemed pretty convinced it should be a problem. But yeah I know it falls on me. I ain’t perfect no one is. I’m so crappy at it I don’t even know if this is a maxima, or crocea or what. I get it the whole buying it with out knowledge. Owned up to that in the beginning. His interview and maybe a few other videos on them is about the extent of my reaserch. So that being said where can I go to get solid advice so I can shift my tank for a clam because I would love to absolutely keep one if possible in a lps and softie tank.

Side note, no idea if this will effect it or not but the day before the behavior I did cut my toadstool as the base seemed to be deteriorating so I did trim that and dip it and rinse it to bring that guy back. Haven’t seen it secrete anything yet but I’m also at work all day.

 

[ItouchedThebutt]

And it’s much harder to care for clams that size, go for the 3 plus inch clams, little clams that size even under the right lighting need phyto as well

I don’t mind phyto I did that to my tank early on and don’t see a major negative with doing it. I just get conflicted resposes reading that clams need it or not. So much conflicting information on that.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

See I’ve watched his interview and even during the interview he made it sound so simple with clams.

It is simple, you just need the light. AI Prime is a nano tank light, and its a bit small on your tank. Maxima and crocea can't survive in 150 par.

 

[exnisstech]

And it’s much harder to care for clams that size, go for the 3 plus inch clams, little clams that size even under the right lighting need phyto as well

This just hasn't been true for me. Also Dr Mac from PEA who has set up clam farms states even small clams need nothing but light as food. Phyto may help but it isn't a requirement.

Not trying to start an argument but your statement is one reason I didn't try small clams years ago. I don't think people should be discouraged by statements like this. I have never dosed phyto and didn't want to start. My derasa was 2 inches when I got it and trippled in size in just over a year before it succumbed to a broken hinge and it received nothing but light from day 1.





This large maxima was very small as well and has not received any feedings. The smaller one also no food supplements.

 

[ItouchedThebutt]

So if light is key. In a mixed LPs and softie tank that’s going to be no higher then 150 what clam would be best for that?

And is the clam I have a crocea?

With the clam I have, if it’s not to late would easing him to the highest point in my tank be beneficial? I don’t have a par meter yet. I was thinking about investing in the reef seneye for that since it can be used for other things. Till then I’ve been going off brs investigated recommendations. Do clams give off any warning signs or anything? I’ve been told this is gaping from what I understand but can’t find anything else on it to what it means, why it happens, or what the behavior signifies.

 

[OrionN]

You have a Crocea which live at the very top of the water, exposed to low tide. It take quite a bit more than 150 PAR. Full tropical Sun at the surface is what it can take. Need near as much.
Water condition need to be good also. Stable and high Alkalinity and Ca. Adequately high pH (not low)
Crocea is the most light demanding of the Tridnacnids. Fairly easy in water flow requirements

 

[SCReef'n]

John is a good guy and knows his clams. Quickly is that a Duncan or an anemone next to the calm? Also how is it mounted on the rock? Is it holding itself there or what?

 

[SCReef'n]

It would be good to get a white light picture from the top down. To me it looks normal for nighttime. Clams are not photosynthesizing and any nutrition is derived from filter feeding hence the larger siphon opening. Trying to maximize intake. Let’s see a daytime pic. I do agreethat with that light the position of the clam needs to be high up

 

[minus9]

Buy this book and read it a couple times. The size of a clam does not matter one bit, but the health of the clam matters. If you get a clam that hasn't been growing and living in subpar conditions, then it's going to be an uphill battle (even for experienced keepers). 99% of vendors want to sell you what they're selling, so they'll say whatever it takes to sell you their goods/livestock. I've witnessed this several times at trade shows where the person has never kept a clam and the vendor sold them an expensive clam knowing the tank was new or the customer was new to the hobby. That's not good for the clam or the hobbyist. Back to clam size, people need to stop repeating things they've read or heard from others without confirming the information for themselves. This hobby is plagued with this regurgitation syndrome and it doesn't help anyone. If you don't know it for a fact, then don't say it or at least preface the statement with "I'm not sure if this is true or not, but I heard...." at least then the reader can decide if they should trust the info or do more research for themselves. This is especially true with clam care. Size does not matter, they don't need to be fed phyto and they need plenty of quality daylight to thrive. The amount of light is determined by the individual clam, but there are some general starting points based on species. Remember, you can have two siblings from the same spawn that are completely two different sizes that have been living side by side under the same conditions.
The easier clams to care for and start with are also the largest species, so they aren't ideal for smaller tanks. Derasa, gigas, squamosa and hippopus are generally pretty hardy and can take a wide range of light, but they are the biggest species and will require a very large tank down the road.
I treat clams like I treat acropora, they need a super stable home with lots of quality light, but acropora are very simple animals, whereas clams are complex animals with organs, so their care is a little more detailed. Look, we've all made those impulse buys, only to realize that it wasn't the smartest thing to do, but make it count and learn as much as you can and don't repeat your mistakes. If you want to keep clams, then invest into quality light and know how to keep a stable tank. If you don't know the reefing fundamentals/basics, then all of this is pointless and you'll most likely have ongoing issues. This is where most new hobbyist fail, not knowing the basics. No amount of YT videos will cover this, its experience and its knowledge passed down from others or simply reading some books on the subject. Yes, I said books, as this is too often overlooked by new reefers, books are still relevant in this hobby. In fact, one can purchase (used) volumes I & III of The Reef Aquarium and have a successful tank. Okay, I'm done screaming at the clouds, but for those reading this, learn the basics and take your time, you owe it to the animals you're trying to keep.

 

[ItouchedThebutt]

John is a good guy and knows his clams. Quickly is that a Duncan or an anemone next to the calm? Also how is it mounted on the rock? Is it holding itself there or what?

That would be a Duncan with two heads, it’s on a drag plug wedged into the rock. Haven’t found him a solid home yet to permantley mount yet. A few of my corals are just chilling with no adheasive in case my BTA decides to wander, he’s still trying to find an ideal spot.

 

[ItouchedThebutt]

Buy this book and read it a couple times. The size of a clam does not matter one bit, but the health of the clam matters. If you get a clam that hasn't been growing and living in subpar conditions, then it's going to be an uphill battle (even for experienced keepers). 99% of vendors want to sell you what they're selling, so they'll say whatever it takes to sell you their goods/livestock. I've witnessed this several times at trade shows where the person has never kept a clam and the vendor sold them an expensive clam knowing the tank was new or the customer was new to the hobby. That's not good for the clam or the hobbyist. Back to clam size, people need to stop repeating things they've read or heard from others without confirming the information for themselves. This hobby is plagued with this regurgitation syndrome and it doesn't help anyone. If you don't know it for a fact, then don't say it or at least preface the statement with "I'm not sure if this is true or not, but I heard...." at least then the reader can decide if they should trust the info or do more research for themselves. This is especially true with clam care. Size does not matter, they don't need to be fed phyto and they need plenty of quality daylight to thrive. The amount of light is determined by the individual clam, but there are some general starting points based on species. Remember, you can have two siblings from the same spawn that are completely two different sizes that have been living side by side under the same conditions.
The easier clams to care for and start with are also the largest species, so they aren't ideal for smaller tanks. Derasa, gigas, squamosa and hippopus are generally pretty hardy and can take a wide range of light, but they are the biggest species and will require a very large tank down the road.
I treat clams like I treat acropora, they need a super stable home with lots of quality light, but acropora are very simple animals, whereas clams are complex animals with organs, so their care is a little more detailed. Look, we've all made those impulse buys, only to realize that it wasn't the smartest thing to do, but make it count and learn as much as you can and don't repeat your mistakes. If you want to keep clams, then invest into quality light and know how to keep a stable tank. If you don't know the reefing fundamentals/basics, then all of this is pointless and you'll most likely have ongoing issues. This is where most new hobbyist fail, not knowing the basics. No amount of YT videos will cover this, its experience and its knowledge passed down from others or simply reading some books on the subject. Yes, I said books, as this is too often overlooked by new reefers, books are still relevant in this hobby. In fact, one can purchase (used) volumes I & III of The Reef Aquarium and have a successful tank. Okay, I'm done screaming at the clouds, but for those reading this, learn the basics and take your time, you owe it to the animals you're trying to keep.

I’d say I have the basics down. This would be my third tank, that being said I’m still always learning especially with best practices. I appreciate this though. I’ll definetly get some good photos today after work. I’ve always loved the look of clams and always wanted one, just been scared for how “fragile” people make them seem. The clam its self is on a little stone hammock that can be moved higher with out agitation to his foot.

That being said are clams still subseptible to coral warfare such as stinging? I’m sure it’s a dumb question but I’ve often wondered this even with my decorative feather duster.

 

[minus9]

I’d say I have the basics down. This would be my third tank, that being said I’m still always learning especially with best practices. I appreciate this though. I’ll definetly get some good photos today after work. I’ve always loved the look of clams and always wanted one, just been scared for how “fragile” people make them seem. The clam its self is on a little stone hammock that can be moved higher with out agitation to his foot.

That being said are clams still subseptible to coral warfare such as stinging? I’m sure it’s a dumb question but I’ve often wondered this even with my decorative feather duster.

I've been doing this for 40+ years and I'm still learning new things, which is a good thing. Regarding neighboring corals, it's not a dumb question. Yes, some corals can and will "sting" the mantle, so you need to consider their neighbors carefully. I don't think feather dusters/tubeworms would bother them, at least in my experience. LPS and softies can definitely bother clam mantles (along with anemones).

 

[OrionN]

I know that @ItouchedThebutt is somewhat of an inexperience clam keeper but there are the things you should check when you buy a clam:
Clam growth

Good mantle extension and colorful without mantle rectraction of unknown cause. I bought clam with mantle injury before and it would be fine.

No pest or illness like parasitic snails or PMD unless you are prepare to treat them.
I talk about PMD here

Diagnosis and Treatment of Pinched Mantle Disease in Giant Clams

Introduction It was almost 20 years ago when I first introduced the Fresh Water Dip (FWD) protocol for the treatment of Pinched Mantle Disease (PMD). Over the years, many reefers altered the protocol somewhat but, on the whole, it still is the...

www.reef2reef.com

I talk about parasitic snails here:

How I deal with Pyram snails, the Giant Clam parasitic snails.

How I deal with Pyram snails, the parasitic snails that infected and kill Tridacna Clams

www.reef2reef.com

 

[minus9]

I know that @ItouchedThebutt is somewhat of an inexperience clam keeper but there are the things you should check when you buy a clam:
Clam growth

Good mantle extension and colorful without mantle rectraction of unknown cause. I bought clam with mantle injury before and it would be fine.

No pest or illness like parasitic snails or PMD unless you are prepare to treat them.
I talk about PMD here

Diagnosis and Treatment of Pinched Mantle Disease in Giant Clams

Introduction It was almost 20 years ago when I first introduced the Fresh Water Dip (FWD) protocol for the treatment of Pinched Mantle Disease (PMD). Over the years, many reefers altered the protocol somewhat but, on the whole, it still is the...

www.reef2reef.com

I talk about parasitic snails here:

How I deal with Pyram snails, the Giant Clam parasitic snails.

How I deal with Pyram snails, the parasitic snails that infected and kill Tridacna Clams

www.reef2reef.com

This a 1000x. I can’t stress this enough, if you don’t have the knowledge or experience to identify a healthy clam, then maybe a little more reading or spending time with someone who knows or has the experience will help. Patience is your best friend! Nice examples, btw.

 

[ItouchedThebutt]

Thank you guys for the supportive info. Got home from work today and I fear the gaping has continued into the day time cycle with the removal of his foot. So yes based off what y’all are saying the worst is probably inevitable. I will say he still looks/looked like a healthy clam. Still shows shell/mantle growth imo aside from his extream hole.

Is it worth setting him higher? Or do I yank him now? If he is a goner I’d like to not wait for him to pollute the whole tank and use this as a hard lesson to learn more about them before I really tackle on having one. I won’t let this discourage me from thinking I can ever keep one but just do what I should do from the beginning and take time. At this rate it’ll be a long while before I can get a par meter and likely find out I need stronger lighting.

 

[ItouchedThebutt]

Went ahead and placed him higher up in the tank till I heard a verdict from y’all. When doing this I noticed I can see through the bottom of him like a gap. Assuming that’s not supposed to be there huh?

 

[OrionN]

He likely will not survive. If and when he died he won’t pollute the tank. Plenty of time to remove him then.