Is this sump too big??

Carz

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So I am getting ready to set up my new 250 tank. I did a mock up of the sump that I want to build. Is this too big? Can I cut it down to 48"? The overall size is 72x18x16. I drew on the section sizes. The filter socks are 4" and I am going to have this in the basement so I am guessing the pump will be external. Any help or suggestions will be great before I cut up the acrylic.
Screen Shot 2019-05-30 at 10.24.08 AM.png
Screen Shot 2019-05-30 at 10.24.22 AM.png
 

Fishboy42

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I like big sumps an´ I can not lie, you otha brothas can´t deny...

But seriously, from my experiences, I'd suggest to go as big as you reasonably can with your sump. If you have the room, I don't think you'll regret having the extra space, water volume, etc. This way you'll have room for extra equipment and plenty of working space to service it. It's quite a luxury to have the room you do, so run with it!

I hope you'll set up a build thread - it sounds like a fun project!
 

Mark Novack

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The size of an oversized sump can be determined by how much water you want to change. 100 gallon aquarium with 100 gallon sump means 100 gallons for a 50% water change. I though about a huge sump until that came to mind.

Mark
 

Aardvark1134

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When talking about a 50% water change keep in mind many things have changed over the last 15 years. Things like marine pure and pond matrix, cheato reactors and refugiums, new reactor types, algae scrubbers etc. It's very possible these days if you build with a low water change method to never need to change more than 10% of water a month.
 

W1ngz

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That looks awesome!
Only change I would make is the return pump section a little wider so you aren't too limited by pump dimensions since you might need something pretty hefty to get it back to the display from the basement. A little more room there will also cut down the chances of vibration noise if the pump walks around a little bit over time and comes in contact with the sides.
 
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Aardvark1134

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Return pump section is really a non-issue with the basement as if you are pushing to another floor you are going to want to use a bulkhead in the return section to go to an external pump like a reef flo or pan world or iwaki.
 

MnFish1

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The bigger the better for lots of reasons - the more water volume - the more parasites, etc are diluted in the system. FYI - when you design your filtration (not your pump) - but the equipment for nutrient export - I do not take the sump volume into account (if you're stocking your tank for the size tank it is as compared to the total water volume). May save you some expense. BTW - curious - how many gallons is the sump as compared to the volume of the tank.

One other comment - what is the purpose of the 'baffles' on the left side? Might be nice if you labeled where your return pump, refugium, skimmer, etc etc were going. Nice though
 

MnFish1

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Sump is roughly 90 gallons and tank is 250. The left side baffle is where the 2 drains and overflow will enter the sump.
Where will your return be? (I assume the 3 holes are filter sock holders?) I meant the baffles on the other side I was thinking somehow of you standing behind the sump looking down - so the side with the holes would have been the 'left side'. sorry my mistake.
 
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Carz

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return will be external. On the right side. Thinking of cutting two holes so I can plumb then into one pump in cace one would ever get clogged the second will flow. Kinda the same principal as 2 floor drains in a swimming pool.
 

Mariette

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When talking about a 50% water change keep in mind many things have changed over the last 15 years. Things like marine pure and pond matrix, cheato reactors and refugiums, new reactor types, algae scrubbers etc. It's very possible these days if you build with a low water change method to never need to change more than 10% of water a month.

Where can I learn more about this 10% a month water change you speak of?
 

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