Kole tang

melypr1985

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I have tried everything. Im putting more nori in tomorrow. Im lost once again.. everyone else eats good..

Hold on a sec. Are you treating your fish with anything yet? Any meds in the water? meds will reduce appetite and being eaten alive by parasites will do the same thing. It's also worth mentioning that some kole tangs dont take well to algae clips. I haven't experienced this with mine, but I have a purple tang that eats from a clip eagerly and the kole seems to just follow suit. I've heard of some people using a rubberband and a small piece of rubble to attach the nori to and have had good results that way. It's more natural to them and the way they eat in the wild.
 
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Steve Dillon

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He has taken to the clip since I got him.. I did see him pecking at the clip today.. yes I have treated with Cupramine its between .5 and .25 it seems to have dropped a little. Am I wrong for adding nori.. he hasn't ate since friday when he was by his tank mates.. then I moved qt and its all changed..
 

melypr1985

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He has taken to the clip since I got him.. I did see him pecking at the clip today.. yes I have treated with Cupramine its between .5 and .25 it seems to have dropped a little. Am I wrong for adding nori.. he hasn't ate since friday when he was by his tank mates.. then I moved qt and its all changed..

No! Keep the nori in there for him. It's going to be what keeps his belly full. Dont let it deteriorate the water quality in your QT, but keep it available to him. Your doing it right... he just has to keep eating a little each day until the copper treatment is over. Fish can live for a surprisingly long time without eating so dont get too worried. As long as he's eating a little he'll be ok.

Also, keep your copper levels above .35 at all times for 30 days or else you need to start your clock over again. Just a quick reminder :)
 
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Steve Dillon

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Just trying to plan ahead.. what's the best way to get the fish out the Cupramine? Drip is my normal acclimating method.. but how long and is it ok?
 

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Just trying to plan ahead.. what's the best way to get the fish out the Cupramine? Drip is my normal acclimating method.. but how long and is it ok?

Out of Cupramine and into your DT (or into non-medicated water)? Just net & release, so long as temp/SG match between the two tanks. You only need to worry when the fish goes into copper, not out of it.
 

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So they are self-aerosolizing then?

I'll get to reading, but that seems far-fetched.
If you have any water movement you will get some amount of aerosolization that's just physics. If you are using an air stone you just get a lot more. When ever I turn my main pump on again there are some bubbles kicked up as it purges the air so this can take many forms, less is better and distance helps even more as does the prevailing air currents in the location.

Just my. 02 I've been in this for 30+ yrs never had a disease in a saltwater tank but I have always ran a uv steralizer and metal halides which also put out uv I think disease has became a forfront since Led which can match kelv but not uv just my. 02
While you are correct HID lighting does produce some UV pretty much any bulb or reflector (for 2 connection bulbs) has UV shielding to protect the user. If the bulb was putting out enough UV C radiation to kill the parasite you'd probably have very bad cataracts, sun burn, and probably skin cancer if it was not UV shielded as I assume you do work on your tank with the lights on.
 

mcarroll

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I know folks who've done service for long time and their eyes have suffered. Nothing catastrophic, but it was noticeable enough for their eye doctors to say something to them about it. $0.02
 

omykiss001

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I know folks who've done service for long time and their eyes have suffered. Nothing catastrophic, but it was noticeable enough for their eye doctors to say something to them about it. $0.02

How do you separate normal sun exposure from an HID lamp. I know plenty of folks who have been told they have cataracts and have never been around an HID lamp. Again it's the UV C radiation that counts. That is pretty much 100% absorbed by even 1-2mm of standard glass, which is why germicidal lamps are housed in quartz sleeves if used in a wet application so the UV C is not attenuated and can do its job. The reason these lamps kill is due to cross-linking thymidine residues in DNA, which for the microbes we don't want kills them when they try to replicate their DNA. Same reason we get cancer and blinding cataracts with little exposure to this type of UV. The Quartz needed is one of the reasons good UV sterilizes for our tanks cost so much.

Just to give an example a friend in grad school forgot to turn the germicidal lamp off in the tissue culture hood he was working for less than 5 minutes and had a bad 1st degree burn with some blistering on any exposed skin. Luckily the glass sash on the hood protected his face and eyes, his arms took the brunt of it. The lamps we use are very similar in wattage to those we use in the UV sterilizes for our aquariums dependent on length of the lamp tube.
 

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Good info!! [emoji106]

During an exam the Dr asked specifically about UV exposure. Can't say about type of damage or type of UV cuz I don't know. [emoji6] But he got cautioned to limit his exposure. There was no other obvious attribution other than the halides he worked around 12-14 hours a day (way more than you or me...and even more than a lot of service companies [emoji1])

Could also be a fluke...but it did happen. Cumulative damage? Maybe even incandescent would do the same at that exposure rate. [emoji6]
 

omykiss001

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Good info!! [emoji106]

During an exam the Dr asked specifically about UV exposure. Can't say about type of damage or type of UV cuz I don't know. [emoji6] But he got cautioned to limit his exposure. There was no other obvious attribution other than the halides he worked around 12-14 hours a day (way more than you or me...and even more than a lot of service companies [emoji1])

Could also be a fluke...but it did happen. Cumulative damage? Maybe even incandescent would do the same at that exposure rate. [emoji6]


Could be. Also he could have also been getting exposed if he removed the glass shield to clean or just didn't like it for some reason.
 

Humblefish

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I might have yet another issue witg this tang.. he seems really fat in the belly area. He is still eating but I dont think its food related

Post a pic/video when you can. Do you feed red nori by any chance? Could just be constipation or even possibly a swim bladder issue.
 
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Steve Dillon

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Here is the best I can get.. its on bot sides

1453765976534.jpg
 

Humblefish

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Try feeding peeled boiled peas for a few days. If it is constipation, the fiber contained therein should help to "push things out". ;)
 

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