Lasses Dream Build

[BigJohnny]

You have 44 fish in 300L? How big is the total system volume? How much gfo do you use and how big is your refugium? ime chaeto (do you have other algae species?) dont remove too much phosphate and I feel like youd have to use a ton of gfo. I also saw you even had to dose nitrate and phosphate at some point which is very surprising to me. Is the rdsb effective at removing phosphate too? What about clams?

Thanks!

 

[Larry L]

Hi @Lasse , I always enjoy reading this thread, thanks for continuing to post about your experiences. Now that the system has been running for a while, would you consider writing a new thread summarizing how you would set things up from the beginning knowing what you know now? I think that would be very useful information.

 

[Lasse]

You have 44 fish in 300L? How big is the total system volume? How much gfo do you use and how big is your refugium? ime chaeto (do you have other algae species?) dont remove too much phosphate and I feel like youd have to use a ton of gfo. I also saw you even had to dose nitrate and phosphate at some point which is very surprising to me.

Total volume is about 400 liters teoretical but excluding rock works ant similar construction - I would say around 250 - 275 litres of water. Refugium - mostly chaeto - around 30 litres. Have some red algae too. I use ratjher little GFO - Al and Fe based in a mix. Run it in a reactor (having it only in a bag without circulation is wortless IMO). I can manage he flow in the reactor - both speed and time active. If PO4 below 0.03 - the reactor works wery little. Sometimes I run both the reactor and dose PO4 because the GFO takes away som metals too and if I´m low in free PO4 - i do not want to risk a zero value - IMO - thats more dangerous than 0.1 -0.3 mg/l PO4 (or more)

Is the rdsb effective at removing phosphate too? What about clams?

Thanks!

First thought - matbe or not - but, but, but. I have observations that indicate that it will collect P in one or another form, hence lower the PO4 in the water column. At least during some conditions. If there is metals in the gravel (as Fe, Ca and so on) - it can theoretical work as weak GFO. I run the RRDSB in different modes - sometimes as anaerobic in the bottom - sometimes aerobic. I´m on my way to test what´s happen in different modes - the results just now is not wanted (indication that my thought should be the other way around )

Clams is probably my best help when I run the system as "dirty" as I do (with dirty - I mean lots of organic particles) They work as mechanical filters with a biological tuch.

Hi @Lasse , I always enjoy reading this thread, thanks for continuing to post about your experiences. Now that the system has been running for a while, would you consider writing a new thread summarizing how you would set things up from the beginning knowing what you know now? I think that would be very useful information.

It will come - in one or another way. For the moment - I will make the comments in this thread.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

Further with eating animals - this timelaps was caught erlier this evening,



Sincerely Lasse

 

[crusso1993]

Further with eating animals - this timelaps was caught erlier this evening,



Sincerely Lasse

Cool! How much time passed in real time to get this video?

 

[Lasse]

It's 4X so around 12 minutes

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

It is 14 months since last WC. Before that it was 12 months without WC too. This is a comparision between my aquaria water and new RODI water. The bucket to the left - new, fresh RODI water - to the right - 14 month old aquaria water. My aquaria have a lot of fishes, lot of biological life - including high microbiological activities. addition of around 80 ml Jomama juice (juice from Chaeto) every night, very dry skimming (sometimes with skimmate back to the aquaria). Only agent in order to remow yellowing substances is an Oxidator A - run with around 9 % H2O2 and two catalyzts. I´m satisfied with the result

​

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

TRITON doc tests

Prior to this test I dosed som ethanol to my RRDSB. Still dose around 80 ml of Chaeto juice (Jomama Juice) every night.

The aquarium is working well - things grow and I´m satisfied.

​

With my measured PO4 level

​

With TRITONS calculated value

​

For the moment - the most important results of my DOC test have been the calculated NO3 and alkalinity levels. They show me that my own measurements is not very bad. I have a lot of organic particles in my aquaria and I can´t rule out that they will impact both N and P levels- My measured NO3 at the test moment was 1 - 2 mg/l NO3 (Red Sea Pro test) TRITON test show that it can be around 6.8 mg/l NO3 as highest. Before next test I will run my system in low nutrient mode for a week before testing

Video taken just before the water was sampled



The full ICP test attached

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

More pictures - some older inhabitants - some newcomers

9 months old clam (in my aquarium)

​

Been her for a week

​

Newcomer X 2

Heve starting to adapt itself and grow

Relocated after that I did not follow the golden rule - Keep Your Hands Dry

​

Sincerely Lasse

 

[ksed]

It is 14 months since last WC. Before that it was 12 months without WC too. This is a comparision between my aquaria water and new RODI water. The bucket to the left - new, fresh RODI water - to the right - 14 month old aquaria water. My aquaria have a lot of fishes, lot of biological life - including high microbiological activities. addition of around 80 ml Jomama juice (juice from Chaeto) every night, very dry skimming (sometimes with skimmate back to the aquaria). Only agent in order to remow yellowing substances is an Oxidator A - run with around 9 % H2O2 and two catalyzts. I´m satisfied with the result

​

Sincerely Lasse

If you were to collect the skimmate, I wonder if it would make a difference in water clarity.

 

[ksed]

What is TNb

 

[Lasse]

Total Nitrogen - what b stand for - no idea in mg/l N. Analysed with ICP Their calculated N/NO3 is based on the case that all detected N is in the form NO3. This figure will show you what the highest value of NO3 you can have

If you have measures NO3 with other methods you can fill in that. In my case 2 mg. This will give me a ratio to compare with TRITONS ratio. In this case it indicate a lot of organic N (because it could not be NH3/NH4) in my water. I supose that I have a lot of amino acids from my Jomama juice (Chaeto juice) in the water

​

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

I did a PAR reading of my aquarium I use a Li-Cor LI 250-A with underwater sensor. The figurs was better than I expected. Measurements taken around 7 cm from the front window

MVH Lasse

 

[crusso1993]

Noe I did a PAR reading of my aquarium I use a Li-Cor LI 250-A with underwater sensor. The figurs was better than I espected. Measurements taken around 7 cm from the front window

​

MVH Lasse

Those are some solid PAR numbers. I'm not surprised.

 

[Lasse]

It is a bright light - Mitrax Led Bar 2 - and it is an uniform light.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[crusso1993]

It is a bright light - Mitrax Led Bar 2 - and it is an uniform light.

Sincerely Lasse

I've heard nothing but good reviews on the GHL Mitra series of lighting.

 

[Lasse]

Next level

​

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

Newcomers

​

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Fudsey]

Count @Lasse in the Trachy club

 

[Tristren]

Next level

​

Sincerely Lasse

Well that's neat. What is it?