Looking to download MyReef 2.0? Look no further!

[Ben Contreras]

Unfortunately Digital Aquatics has discontinued their ReefKeeper line and with it the Website and the download link for MyReef 2.0

Did you recently acquire a used ReefKeeper and need to download MyReef 2.0?
Don't worry I've got you covered!
Follow THIS LINK here to my Google Drive where I saved the download.
I would also like to turn this into a support thread being that DA is no longer offering support. So I'm hoping that along with myself, other users can help out and offer support to users in need of it.
Happy Reefing

Hello,I’m new to the forum and to the saltwater world.ive been looking to upgrade my used rkl unit but i understand that digital aquatics is closed.i also saw the download link here for myreef 2.0 but can’t seem to get it.can someone just send me downloadable link..thanks

 

[Ian Elbrand]

If anyone needs modules I will be posting some for sale in about about a week, will have the following

2 power bars

Reefkeeper lite system minus ph probe
Lite head unit with temp sensor
1 power bar
Sl that came with it

Possibly some extra modules once I sort it all out


Thanks

 

[Mark Lawson]

Thanks for posting just got a new in box unit even tho Mfg dead and gone it will still be a nice unit for running my desktop tank......I will be interested in seeing what you have.

 

[nvella0626]

n2585722,

Awesome of you to start this thread. It is a lifesaver after DA closed up shop and even took down their website. Do you have the latest BIN and HEX files for the NET module and RKL? The latest I for the RKL is RKL-1-0208.hex for the RKL firmware and the latest I have is NET-1-0209.hex for the NET firmware and NET-1-0212.bin for the web page file. The NET both have publish dates of way back in 2011 and i haven't had to update in a long time thankfully. However the NET webpage isn't recognizing the PB4 module and I think this is because of possibly out of date firmware and web page.

I notice you also said you were a Team DA member, do you think the DA owners would welcome a gofundme operation to pay for the hosting costs to get the support forums back online?

 

[N2theUnknown]

Ok so i got my reef2.0 downloaded now how do I program it? I plug the sid in and my rke into the sid but only thing lets me do is "update" how do I actually program the unit from the software?

 

[N2theUnknown]

Ok so i got my reef2.0 downloaded now how do I program it? I plug the sid in and my rkl into the sid but only thing lets me do is "update" how do I actually program the unit from the software?

Rke

 

[n2585722]

To program outputs you have to have all modules connected and the system powered up. Start the computer and start myreef. Then connect the SID to the computer. Then connect the SID to the powered up Reefkeeper system.

 

[N2theUnknown]

Awh so i have to have it hooked to the power bar also?

 

[n2585722]

Awh so i have to have it hooked to the power bar also?

Yes it has to be powered up. Best to have all modules you will be using hooked up. If you are updating firmware then it is one module at a time without power.

 

[Crabs McJones]

Awh so i have to have it hooked to the power bar also?

Correct. It has to be all hooked up and powered in order to program it

 

[cwills75]

Does anyone know if the RKM-APC/DCI 24v pump interface for the RKL allow for controlling pumps speeds or just on/off?

 

[Jason Roth]

Thank you for posting this. I am just now getting back into the reef tank world and purchased a used RKE v2, I assume is the correct acronym based on reading the thread. I only have 1 temp probe. What does SID stand for? Is that the main control box? I have 3 boxes and some cables. I will have to pull it out of the box and put another post up. I didn't know that DA closed down until after I purchased the kit from a local guy. I did a quick search originally and saw some listed new for sale from different places so I figured all was good and it was recommended to have a controller so I bought it all for about $100. Seeing the Apex for $800 I sure hope this RKE works. I have 2 power strips with it. Actually have 4, but the guy received 2 new replacements for his originals he thought weren't working. I will have to plug them in and see if they work.

I need to check the link for additional probes and also figure out how to calibrate the temp sensor. I saw one youtube video and the guy appeared to use some generic temp sensor to calibrate the RK probe. I would think we should use a sensor/probe we know is accurate, not just something off the shelf from the pet store?

 

[n2585722]

Thank you for posting this. I am just now getting back into the reef tank world and purchased a used RKE v2, I assume is the correct acronym based on reading the thread. I only have 1 temp probe. What does SID stand for? Is that the main control box? I have 3 boxes and some cables. I will have to pull it out of the box and put another post up. I didn't know that DA closed down until after I purchased the kit from a local guy. I did a quick search originally and saw some listed new for sale from different places so I figured all was good and it was recommended to have a controller so I bought it all for about $100. Seeing the Apex for $800 I sure hope this RKE works. I have 2 power strips with it. Actually have 4, but the guy received 2 new replacements for his originals he thought weren't working. I will have to plug them in and see if they work.

I need to check the link for additional probes and also figure out how to calibrate the temp sensor. I saw one youtube video and the guy appeared to use some generic temp sensor to calibrate the RK probe. I would think we should use a sensor/probe we know is accurate, not just something off the shelf from the pet store?

The SID is the interface between the system buss and a computer. There are 2 versions. One is a black box about the size of the old chewing gum packs with a USB port on one end and a buss port on the other. The newer one plugs directly into a USB port on a computer and has a cord with a buss connector attached. The black box one should have a sticker stating it is myReef ready.

The temp sensor is a single point calibration so it is most accurate at the calibration temp. It is best to calibrate it as close to your target value that you are trying to keep you tank as possible. As far as the temp standard you use it depends on how accurate you want it.

The RKE is still a good controller. If you want to expand it you will just need to keep an eye out for the modules you need. There are several people that can help with programming and other issues you might have.

 

[Jason Roth]

The SID is the interface between the system buss and a computer. There are 2 versions. One is a black box about the size of the old chewing gum packs with a USB port on one end and a buss port on the other. The newer one plugs directly into a USB port on a computer and has a cord with a buss connector attached. The black box one should have a sticker stating it is myReef ready.

The temp sensor is a single point calibration so it is most accurate at the calibration temp. It is best to calibrate it as close to your target value that you are trying to keep you tank as possible. As far as the temp standard you use it depends on how accurate you want it.

The RKE is still a good controller. If you want to expand it you will just need to keep an eye out for the modules you need. There are several people that can help with programming and other issues you might have.

Awesome thank you. I checked the probe thread and bookmarked some of them on amazon. Here are pics of what I have. I do have the SID v2 and 4 of the power strips. I plugged each one in and flipped switch to reset. All indicator lights come on then the blue ones go out and the status flashes. Hopefully all 4 are good. And have a handful of cables that look like regular telephone cables. I assume these link the units together and power strips.

Oh yeah, have that red/black harness as well. Not sure what it’s for. I think it has the same black connector on both ends. Link the SL1’s?

 

[n2585722]

Awesome thank you. I checked the probe thread and bookmarked some of them on amazon. Here are pics of what I have. I do have the SID v2 and 4 of the power strips. I plugged each one in and flipped switch to reset. All indicator lights come on then the blue ones go out and the status flashes. Hopefully all 4 are good. And have a handful of cables that look like regular telephone cables. I assume these link the units together and power strips.

Oh yeah, have that red/black harness as well. Not sure what it’s for. I think it has the same black connector on both ends. Link the SL1’s?

OK the black cables with the connectors that look like phone cables are buss cables. They are different than phone cables. You can make them but you do have to be careful about how the RJ12 connectors are attached to cables. The red and black wires with a connector on each end is actually to connectors for switch inputs on the SL modules. I cut mine at the halfway mark and spliced in float switches. You can make one side long if it is needed. There is also links to where you can get the connector and pins with the wires already connected if you need more. Hook up the head unit to one of the power bars with one of the buss cables and power it up. You should get a display on the head unit and the status light on the power bar should stay lit. If this is a used unit it may still have programming that was done by the previous user. This can be cleared, but it would hook it all up and make sure it looks to be working. Once that is done you can do a reset to factory defaults form the menu on the head unit. I will see if I still have a manual for it if you do not have it.

 

[Jason Roth]

OK the black cables with the connectors that look like phone cables are buss cables. They are different than phone cables. You can make them but you do have to be careful about how the RJ12 connectors are attached to cables. The red and black wires with a connector on each end is actually to connectors for switch inputs on the SL modules. I cut mine at the halfway mark and spliced in float switches. You can make one side long if it is needed. There is also links to where you can get the connector and pins with the wires already connected if you need more. Hook up the head unit to one of the power bars with one of the buss cables and power it up. You should get a display on the head unit and the status light on the power bar should stay lit. If this is a used unit it may still have programming that was done by the previous user. This can be cleared, but it would hook it all up and make sure it looks to be working. Once that is done you can do a reset to factory defaults form the menu on the head unit. I will see if I still have a manual for it if you do not have it.

Ok, hooked up the controller to each of the 4 outlet strips and they all power it up

1. Plug in bus 1, Status is green and ch1-3 are blue, ch4 not lit up. Plug into bus 2 same thing
2. Plug in bus 1, Status green and ch1 blue. Ch2-4 not lit up. Same plugged into bus 2
3. Plug into both buses, status green and no channels lit up
4. Same as 3

So think 1 and 2 are bad?

I went through some of the menu options and tried reseting factory default but not sure it worked. Plugged in both SL modules and their status lights are blue so I assume they are ok. Plugged in the temp sensor but couldn't figure out how to view it. I assume the SL's plug into the bus ports on the power strips as well? But I don't see how I can use both SL modules and the controller. I though that 2nd module would for expanding the system with the second power strip but there are only 2 bus ports on each strip and I assume you would have to link them?

So do I have a spare module and power strip?

 

[n2585722]

Ok, hooked up the controller to each of the 4 outlet strips and they all power it up

1. Plug in bus 1, Status is green and ch1-3 are blue, ch4 not lit up. Plug into bus 2 same thing
2. Plug in bus 1, Status green and ch1 blue. Ch2-4 not lit up. Same plugged into bus 2
3. Plug into both buses, status green and no channels lit up
4. Same as 3

So think 1 and 2 are bad?

I went through some of the menu options and tried reseting factory default but not sure it worked. Plugged in both SL modules and their status lights are blue so I assume they are ok. Plugged in the temp sensor but couldn't figure out how to view it. I assume the SL's plug into the bus ports on the power strips as well? But I don't see how I can use both SL modules and the controller. I though that 2nd module would for expanding the system with the second power strip but there are only 2 bus ports on each strip and I assume you would have to link them?

So do I have a spare module and power strip?

They Daisy chain together. Each module has two buss ports so you plug the head unit into one port on one module then use a other port on that module to hook to another module and so on. Order only matters when it comes to power for the non powered modules. The modules you currently have it will not matter. Don't worry about the channel lights on the power bars until you start programming the outputs.

 

[Jason Roth]

They Daisy chain together. Each module has two buss ports so you plug the head unit into one port on one module then use a other port on that module to hook to another module and so on. Order only matters when it comes to power for the non powered modules. The modules you currently have it will not matter. Don't worry about the channel lights on the power bars until you start programming the outputs.

Ah, so actually I would connect controller to module, then module to second module and then to the power strip?

 

[Jason Roth]

So I downloaded and installed myreef2.0 and it appeared to install fine. It created a desktop shortcut as well but will not open.

I am running an HP Envy, windows 10. Tried opening the program from start menu and from the shortcut. Even tried under file explorer and tried opening as administrator. It is not opening up. When I double click it acts like it will but nothing opens. Checked my task manager and it is not running under there either.

Do I need to try under safe mode? One post in here said their HP worked fine with windows 10. I was hoping not to run it in safe mode.

 

[n2585722]

Ah, so actually I would connect controller to module, then module to second module and then to the power strip?

Yes, the power strip as you call it is also a module. It is probably PC4 module. There is also a newer one called a PB4. It is an output module along with this it provides power to the buss to power the head unit and other modules. You can hook up all three of the power strips. In most cases you want to evenly distribute the power on the buss. The modules you have other than the head unit are low power. I would connect the head unit to a power strip and then that to you modules if you want. That will ensure you head unit has enough power. Another issue you might run into with SL1 modules is the inputs are not isolated from the buss. This may cause issues with pH and/or ORP readings using both modules. The SLX modules which is isolated replaced the SL1 module. The SL2 module is also isolated. The SL2 module pH will not go much below the pH of 6. So it would not do for a freshwater tank or in a calcium reactor. The SLX has a pH port and a port that is switchable between pH or ORP. All SL modules have a temp port and 2 switch inputs. If you use the salinity port on the SL2 module you need a temp probe on that module. Also if you download myReef and connect a computer with myReef running to the SID and then to the powered up system you can program the outputs and rename the modules and ports.