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I downloaded the WWC lighting template, and have switched to that.You're at the upper end of how long to have them on. If you're not growing nuisance algae and the corals aren't bleaching then you should be good. You can offset leaving them on the longer photocycle by having a lower maximum par, then the amount of light you use in the day can equate to a shorter photocycle with higher par.
Thank you very much for following along, it has been quite the adventure. As far as humidity, I really have not noticed a problem. I think the air conditioner does the bulk of the work. However, I live in Texas and it is always humid here, so I may just be used to it.Wow, made it through your entire build, very well done. I know you’ve encountered many challenges, but overall your progress is impressive.
Regarding DT temperature, like you we often have the AC on in the summer and installing a ceiling fan in our DT room really helped with overall DT temp, no more 80’s. Also, one issue I did not see discussed is how you deal with humidity associated with the 315? Does the AC take care of this issue?
Keep up the informative build, I see great successes in your future.
Yeah I’m gonna have to look into getting some of those.Oh and I’d +1 on the urchin recommendation, while mine can be a little bit of a bulldozer its cleaning benefits by far outweigh the bulldozing risk. Not to mention periodically i toss it into my refugium for a couple weeks and boy does it come out looking happy.
In your 315, once the urchin settles in, it’ll take you ten minutes to find it.Yeah I’m gonna have to look into getting some of those.
I wonder if Purit or ROX would remove this. I have ROX on the tank now, but I started it after I sent in the test. I'm also doing a continuous water change which bring it down some.I'm not sure what the source of this is.
I'm not sure what the source of this is.
There’s no go on the tank, so I will check magnetsMaybe GFO or magnets?