Maxima Clam - Expelled Foot/Byssal Threads?!?
- Thread starter ElGuapo
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minus9
5000 Club Member
I think it’s better to think in ranges and not precise numbers. I think for young tanks you want to keep PO4 between .05 to .1ppm and about 10x that in NO3 (1-5ppm). If corals seem pale, then you can raise that range a little higher until you get deeper colors. As the tank matures, you can go slightly higher with both, but I like to keep PO4 close to .1ppm give or take .02 or so. NO3 can be 1-10ppm without issue and sometimes higher.
The problem people run into is limiting nutrients to mitigate algae, but that’s the wrong approach and the animals suffer because of that deficiency. The key to algae control is herbivores, not low nutrients. Alkalinity is fine between 7-9dkh, again don’t get hung up on numbers, just try to keep it stable. In low nutrient environments, high light can cause problems (like bleaching), so lighting is tied to nutrients and flow, but that’s for another day. When people start telling you that you have to stay with a certain number in regards to parameters, then they lack the experience to know that each tank has its zone and it’s your goal or objective to observe and achieve that zone. What works for one tank, doesn’t always apply to another. It takes time and experience before you master the skill of observation. It’s something that is lifelong in this hobby, we’re all still learning as we go.
Chee-tomorpha
Active Member
I'll keep slowly adding phos and nitrates to get levels around your recommendations.
I'm competing in a coral grow out with this tank too and the competition frag turned completely brown. It appears healthy otherwise, is encrusting, and has good polyp extensions. The coral should be a very pastel reddish pink and white/pink polyps from the photos like in my avatar image.
I think I'll begin ramping up the lights along with the increased nutrient doses. From what I gather in the competition thread, it sounds like the browning is a balance of nutrients and light strength.
Any recommendations on accomplishing this?
What should I keep an eye on when ramping the lights?
How much % increase weekly is safe?
What would be a good target for the light max output?
I'm competing in a coral grow out with this tank too and the competition frag turned completely brown. It appears healthy otherwise, is encrusting, and has good polyp extensions. The coral should be a very pastel reddish pink and white/pink polyps from the photos like in my avatar image.
I think I'll begin ramping up the lights along with the increased nutrient doses. From what I gather in the competition thread, it sounds like the browning is a balance of nutrients and light strength.
Any recommendations on accomplishing this?
What should I keep an eye on when ramping the lights?
How much % increase weekly is safe?
What would be a good target for the light max output?
Shirak
Valuable Member
ok so 30" approximately from the lamp to the clam? BRS did a test at 16.5" from the water and Par measurements at 12" below the water. I am going to guestimate you are in the same range (closer to the water but further below the surface) At full power they were getting a Par measurement of around 170 in the center. At the 30% you are running I think it's a fair guess that your par at the clam is around 60-70. You mentioned your Zoa and Goni at the same level which typically do well starting around that same par. I did go slightly over 30% since your lamp is closer and more light will enter the water. Bottom line.. your clam is getting way too little light even if we estimate you might be around 100 par which I highly doubt.
Shirak
Valuable Member
Yes. Video link in the first post and lots of good discussion in the thread.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/p...e-kessil-ap700-led-brstv-investigates.336104/
Chee-tomorpha
Active Member
Okay so after watching the video I see what you're saying. I'll start by moving the lamp down in increments of 1" until I hit 7". Since moving down will increase intensity it shouldn't blast the corals.
After that I'll slowly ramp up the lamp to 100%. @ 5% each week? I already use the blue setting he recommends so good to have tested values to base off of.
At the same time I'll have to monitor phosphates and nitrates and adjust doses accordingly.
Do you think this is a good lighting plan? Any recommendations?
After that I'll slowly ramp up the lamp to 100%. @ 5% each week? I already use the blue setting he recommends so good to have tested values to base off of.
At the same time I'll have to monitor phosphates and nitrates and adjust doses accordingly.
Do you think this is a good lighting plan? Any recommendations?
Shirak
Valuable Member
Can you raise the clam up? Trying to hit the clam at the bottom with enough par will toast pretty much everything else above it. If your Acro frags are looking good and showing some growth then the clam would probably be good in the same light range. You wouldn't have to do any adjustments except maybe bump the power up slowly over time to 50% or so.
Chee-tomorpha
Active Member
I'd hate to move it again. It seems to have taken a liking to the spot it's on at the moment. I don't think it's attached though as the bottom hole is elevated and visible, no visible filament attached to the rock.
I may have a spot around the mid level but if it falls off, it could be doom if I'm not around.
I don't think my acros are thriving. I've managed to keep them from dying which is a big step for me. I'm looking to get more color and more growth.
minus9
5000 Club Member
People who suffer from low nutrients either don’t have enough fish in their tank and/or simply don’t feed them enough. Also, mount the 700 between 7” to 9” from the water, I think I had mine around 9 1/2” from the water. As far as increasing intensity, I would do 2-5%, then wait a week or longer before increasing again, observing the corals along the way. You can always move the clam with the rock to a higher location? It didn’t look that big to me in the pictures?
Agree with last post. I just added more Tonga to move my Mimosa clam a little higher in tank and to the center. I increased my light 2% to see what happens as the rest of tank is LPS. My clam is sitting on a round piece of Marco cement flat that I made and glued to a bigger piece of square since the clam keeps growing. It can still move to the sides if it wants, nothing hindering the sides of clam. The clam opens as wide as it wants and I can move it if needed.
Shirak
Valuable Member
You could get a 2" diameter clam or oyster from your local seafood shop. Half the shell cleaned well and epoxied/glued to the rockwork makes a nice cradle for your clam. Once it's attached you can easily move it if needed by popping the cradle off the rock and attaching to a new location.
Chee-tomorpha
Active Member
It's been a few days with the light lowered to 7" from water surface and I had cranked power to 40%. The clam looks fantastic and hasn't moved so I'll just keep it where it is.
I had a mythos acros RTN two days into the light adjustment. It wasn't doing so hot to begin with. It first started getting a green tint then just lost all tissue yesterday. Still has some polyps so fingers crossed it'll pull through.
Aside from that acro, I think everything else in the tank is benefitting from the increased PAR, especially the grow out frag. It seems happier and can't wait to see what more PAR will do to it. My Pink Cadillac is getting it's pink back too. Thanks for help! Tank is heading in the right direction now. Woot!
I had a mythos acros RTN two days into the light adjustment. It wasn't doing so hot to begin with. It first started getting a green tint then just lost all tissue yesterday. Still has some polyps so fingers crossed it'll pull through.
Aside from that acro, I think everything else in the tank is benefitting from the increased PAR, especially the grow out frag. It seems happier and can't wait to see what more PAR will do to it. My Pink Cadillac is getting it's pink back too. Thanks for help! Tank is heading in the right direction now. Woot!
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