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Sleeping Giant

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With how my aquarium is laid out, should it be a problem to add frogspawn, GSP, and hammer coral frags? Frag sizes will be roughly a beer can diameter.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 13" toadstool, mint chocolate chip zoas, RBTA, frag button of blue zoas.

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Sleeping Giant

Sleeping Giant

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Yeah, be careful with GSP they can be hard to control. Not familiar with your light, it is not a commonly successful reef light.
The lights works great, just because lots of other people don't use them, doesn't necessarily mean, especially if you have not used them, that they are not on successful reefs. As I stated above, my issue is not my lights.
 

Greg P

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You can add what you listed, just keep them away from each other - 12" or so to start with.
Then watch their interactions.
As per your lights, ya, it may not be enough.
You can run it with LPS but probably not SPS.

No offence, just sharing info ...

Fluval/Marineland/Coralife and all those similar brands are not enough for a Reef.

I have an ATI Powermodule over my 4' 75g and it's 432watts of T5HO
Not sure how your fixture compares, but I'd bet it's nowhere close to mine

LEDs do not compare unless they are very expensive.

How many watts are your fixtures ?

What I see online tells me the Fluval 48-60" fixture only puts out 59watts

Maybe I'm reading the info wrong, but if I'm not, you'd need 7-8 of those lights to equal what I run to keep my SPS happy ....
 
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Sleeping Giant

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You can add what you listed, just keep them away from each other - 12" or so to start with.
Then watch their interactions.
As per your lights, ya, it may not be enough.
You can run it with LPS but probably not SPS.

No offence, just sharing info ...

Fluval/Marineland/Coralife and all those similar brands are not enough for a Reef.

I have an ATI Powermodule over my 4' 75g and it's 432watts of T5HO
Not sure how your fixture compares, but I'd bet it's nowhere close to mine

LEDs do not compare unless they are very expensive.

How many watts are your fixtures ?

What I see online tells me the Fluval 48-60" fixture only puts out 59watts

Maybe I'm reading the info wrong, but if I'm not, you'd need 7-8 of those lights to equal what I run to keep my SPS happy ....
Ya I was thinking of keeping them apart about that far, just because of how they grow and I don't want my anemone to sting them or them to sting my toadstool.

So unless I spend as much money as you on lights, I might as well just have a koi pond?

I don't think so. Good for you for getting those lights.

My lights are great, I'm happy with them and the growth I am having with them.
I have no issues running Fluval 3.0 lights on my tank. But agaaaain...that wasn't my question, but yet again people in reefing would rather try to demoralize a person for their choice of lighting, instead of trying to understand why I would use those lights.

My tank is 21 inches deep it's not 3 ft deep, it's not 4 ft deep...I don't plan on trying to burn every coral I have white, the fixture fits directly over the water, it itself is waterproof.....not many of those $200-400 hockey pucks are, and then you need to buy a WIFI module to go with them, because that so called high-end light company can't even be bothered with including Bluetooth technology for free... so yes I do love how my Fluval lights work in my aquarium.
 

nezw0001

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I don't think anyone was saying you need to spend a lot of money to get coral to grow, there is no need to get defensive. Coral, including LPS and softies, require a certain intensity of light to live. Generally this is measured as PAR. Have you measured PAR in the location where these corals are going to go? PAR meters can be rented through most of the on line vendors. The best path forward may be to go ahead with your original plan but if the corals start to struggle investigate the PAR where they are placed. It seems pretty common for folks to get a bunch of coral and they do well for a while but then slowly slide backwards and stop extending. It is generally easier to verify all the possibilities before this happens so your not scrambling 6 months from now.
 

Greg P

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Yup, definitely was not bashing your choice of lights, or saying mine are better, or that you need to spend many hundreds or thousands to have a successful tank.
I was only pointing out that with the wattage output of what you have you may struggle to grow higher-demand corals.

If you can keep your tank happy with your fixture choice then you've saved some big coin :D
 

fishguy242

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should be fine w frog or hammer ,just get one ,see how it does start low in tank ,move or not accordingly :cool:
 

sfin52

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Yeah, be careful with GSP they can be hard to control. Not familiar with your light, it is not a commonly successful reef light.
You can grow coral the lps high leathers will be fine anywhere. I have a 3.0 on my 90. I supplement with t5ho. I was running 3.0 and 1.0 and had good results. 1.0 cr apped out. I replaced with t5.

Watch out for those mint chocolate palys. Rumored to have a very potent palytoxin. They can become invasive and overtake everything. Suggest moving to island.
 

Greg P

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I'll add that the reason I piped up in this thread to start with is because of my experience with my 20g tall hospital/qt/frag tank.
I clipped numerous SPS and kept them in the 20 for over a week while trying to sell them.
They were under a twin 24w T5HO fixture with regular dosing of the Big 3 plus NO3 and PO4, yet they still paled out.
The equivalent they came from would have required twice the lighting I gave them in the 20g.
 

sfin52

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I'll add that the reason I piped up in this thread to start with is because of my experience with my 20g tall hospital/qt/frag tank.
I clipped numerous SPS and kept them in the 20 for over a week while trying to sell them.
They were under a twin 24w T5HO fixture with regular dosing of the Big 3 plus NO3 and PO4, yet they still paled out.
The equivalent they came from would have required twice the lighting I gave them in the 20g.
Oh ya I tried sps that's a no go.unless the are inches from the top of the water
 

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