New RODI System

[Glott3133]

I just purchased an RODI system, so I definitely don't have many answers. Before I begin setting it up, I don't believe I have enough tubing to connect to the ATO float in my sump, and to the water supply line in the ceiling. So I have 2 questions - 1. Can I just go to Lowes/Home depot and purchase additional 1/4" tubing? 2. Where can I purchase a quick connect Y-connector?

Thanks

 

[TripleTruble]

Yeah most of your hardware stores will carry it

 

[Water Dog]

Home Depot will definitely have the RO tubing and they will also carry a bunch of John Guest fittings. If they don’t have a Y connector they’ll probably have a T.

Do you plan on hooking the ATO float in your sump directly to your RODI unit? Just a word of caution if you are... if that ATO float ever gets stuck in the open position, you may be looking at a serious flood hazard.

In addition, having the RODI unit constantly cycling on and off will cause you to deplete your DI resin at a much faster rate due to TDS creep as opposed to making larger volumes of water in batches and using a DI bypass valve to flush out TDS creep water upon system start up.

 

[Glott3133]

Thank you for the info. Are there any good posts on what to do and how to do it. I definitely don't want to have a flood situation.

 

[Water Dog]

I make water in large batches and store it in a couple of 20 gallon Brute trash cans. I keep top off water in a 10 gallon ATO reservoir beside my tank and manually fill it up as it depletes. I don’t trust gravity fed float valve used to top off water so I use a dedicated ATO unit. I trust the Spectrapure ULPC-ATO, the Tunze 3155 or the Avast ATO as they have a long trackrecord of reliability.

As far as using a DI bypass valve to prolong the life of your DI resin, here is a post I made on the subject in another thread awhile back...

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ro-di-are-all-equal.661401/page-2#post-6680889