- Mar 28, 2016
- Reaction score
- Fairfield, CT
Quite frankly, the only thing you need is the vertical DI kit. You already have everything else. Based on your numbers though, I do think you need a new RO membrane.
Hey there are a lot of good suggestions above, I chose this because it has all that and then some.Do you run the unit about 50 gallons at a time, or in short cycles like maybe on a float switch?
Every time water is introduced to the RO membrane, a small amount of unfiltered water is passed through it and into the DI media. If your float switch allows this to happen over and over, it will cause the DI media to be expended quickly. It is much much more efficient to fill your fresh water reservoir all at once....simple float sw so when the level drops the pressure drops on the feed and the rodi pump kicks in...
This unit does a small back flush before it supplies any water, it does another large flush periodically, There is a video on the operation somewhere.Every time water is introduced to the RO membrane, a small amount of unfiltered water is passed through it and into the DI media. If your float switch allows this to happen over and over, it will cause the DI media to be expended quickly. It is much much more efficient to fill your fresh water reservoir all at once.
I would make sure. I don't have your system so I can't tell you how your's works. Backflushing for me is done manually to clean the build-up from the membrane. It doesn't have any impact on the bypass effect common to all RO membranes.This unit does a small back flush before it supplies any water, it does another large flush periodically,
Exactly. That is what I meant by DI bypass and why I linked to that BRS 3 way valve. When a system sits idle, there is something called TDS creep. Apparently, it’s high TDS water seeking equilibrium on both sides of the membrane as the system sits idle. Upon startup, there is a minute or two of high TDS creep water, that if it’s not diverted, goes right into the DI resin, drastically reducing resin life. The three way valve let’s you divert that high TDS water away from the membrane into the drain. You can verify this through properly placed TDS probes. When I start my system up, post RO TDS reads in the 50s, I flip the 3 way valve and Let that water go into the drain for about two minutes. By then the post RO membrane TDS sensor goes back to 1 TDS, I redirect flow back into my DI cartridges and start making water. Using a DI bypass valve will have an incredible impact on DI resin efficiency.If the water that is being filtered through the membrane and supplied to the DI Resin is not diverted for a minute or two after pressure is applied, you may be burning DI resin unnecessarily. No amount of filter/membrane changes or possibly backflushes will change that.
I'll respectfully disagree with you on this one, and this case is a perfect example. Regardless of the quality of the filters in that system, I'd never recommend it. Here's why:Needing to change the DI resin after 200G of RO water is definitely not normal.
RO/DI system are pretty straightforward. The brand of the canisters doesn't really matter and everything is in the filters.