Quite frankly, the only thing you need is the vertical DI kit. You already have everything else. Based on your numbers though, I do think you need a new RO membrane.
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Hey there are a lot of good suggestions above, I chose this because it has all that and then some.Do you run the unit about 50 gallons at a time, or in short cycles like maybe on a float switch?
...simple float sw so when the level drops the pressure drops on the feed and the rodi pump kicks in...
This unit does a small back flush before it supplies any water, it does another large flush periodically, There is a video on the operation somewhere.Every time water is introduced to the RO membrane, a small amount of unfiltered water is passed through it and into the DI media. If your float switch allows this to happen over and over, it will cause the DI media to be expended quickly. It is much much more efficient to fill your fresh water reservoir all at once.
This unit does a small back flush before it supplies any water, it does another large flush periodically,
If the water that is being filtered through the membrane and supplied to the DI Resin is not diverted for a minute or two after pressure is applied, you may be burning DI resin unnecessarily. No amount of filter/membrane changes or possibly backflushes will change that.
I'll respectfully disagree with you on this one, and this case is a perfect example. Regardless of the quality of the filters in that system, I'd never recommend it. Here's why:Needing to change the DI resin after 200G of RO water is definitely not normal.
RO/DI system are pretty straightforward. The brand of the canisters doesn't really matter and everything is in the filters.
People are still confusing the purpose of a flush valve vs a DI bypass valve.
People are still confusing the purpose of a flush valve vs a DI bypass valve.
I hope it ain’t me. I’ve tried to explain it the way AZDesertRat explained it to me many years ago. Any additional insight?