New super simple build

djray77

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I got the inspiration for this build from Aarons Aquarium on youtube. I went from all bells and whistles 125g to this 75g. I want to make things as simple as possible. I have never ran a canister filter before but it seems really easy to maintain. Yes, I've heard they are nitrate factory's but if you clean them regularly I guess they arent bad. I went with an Fluval FX4 and hoping that should work nicely for a 75. As for flow I will be going with 2 jebao SW-8's (There's a little pp-4 in there for now just to stir things up for the cycle). This build is going to be simple and cheap except for my lighting, in his video he states this is one area you should not skimp on. So, 2 Radion XR15g4 pro's should work nice on a 48" tank. I just got my rock scape done last night, I was on the fence with it but I have always liked the arch style. I always think to myself, could I make something even better? I could go days trying new things and never get the cycle going lol. That's pretty much it so far, I have a bottle of biospira I just dont know if I should add a piece of shrimp or ghost feed with pellets? I dont want to add live fish even though they say you can.

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djray77

djray77

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Got my control board started but I think I've changed my mind on flow, I think I'm going to go with 2 gyre xf330's, it's going to be a mixed reef but I would like more sps and I'm not sure the jebao SW-8 will be enough. On a second note, I might drain the tank and drill a hole for a quick drain line for easy water changes like I have on my 40 breeder. I have a valve on the left side of the stand that I can connect a hose to and do up to 50% water change without lifting a bucket. I just added dr Tim's and ammonia to it today which sucks, so I might not bother with the drain hole. I always think of it after the fact ugh.

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Mastiffsrule

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Still liking the rock. The flat piece on the right is cool. Any plans for it.

I chuckled a bit when I saw you other tank. Everything was high tech and then there was masking tape for the water level. I did the same but I used one of my kids princess stickers since it happened to be right there at the time.
 
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djray77

djray77

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I wanted alot of flat places this time for ease of coral placement. as for what I'm going to put there I haven't figured that out yet lol. I'm trying to pick up a used/cheap seneye to find out what my par is at them levels and go from there.
LOL! Masking tape rocks!
 
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djray77

djray77

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I did a 20g WC and changed out all my filter media last night, let it run over night and this is where I am at this morning. It was so cloudy in the last picture but now its crystal clear again. Can I add fish is the question lol I feel like its been to soon. I only added the Dr Tims on june 9th





 
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djray77

djray77

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I should of done this along time ago, the main focus to this build is, I dont want to have to carry any buckets, with this handy dandy tool it makes life so much easier. The paint on my basement floor has been taking a beating lol. I need to repaint it sometime.

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djray77

djray77

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I was expecting 300 or above at the top shelves :(, Not sure if these numbers are going to work for an SPS? According to BRS investigates a good range is 250-350 par for SPS. I am using the Coral AB schedule on the reeflink and this was at 100% intensity, and the lights are 9 inches from the water. I understand the diffusers reduce the intensity of around 20%? Do I need to add another xr15 in the center? I have a brace in the center of the tank which kinda sucks.

Par Number.JPG
 

Nicholas Dushynsky

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I was expecting 300 or above at the top shelves :(, Not sure if these numbers are going to work for an SPS? According to BRS investigates a good range is 250-350 par for SPS. I am using the Coral AB schedule on the reeflink and this was at 100% intensity, and the lights are 9 inches from the water. I understand the diffusers reduce the intensity of around 20%? Do I need to add another xr15 in the center? I have a brace in the center of the tank which kinda sucks.

Par Number.JPG
Fantastic setup you have started there.
The numbers look a bit low considering running at 100%, there isn't a massive drop off from the 190 in the centre down to 130 on the sand. You will get hot spots under the lights and will get drop off to the sides so you can choose to add another xr15 or even a t5 hybrid to help with the cross over between the leds but the downside to that is lamp replacement. Do you have any local reefers that you could borrow another light from for a couple hours to do some tests with?
 
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djray77

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Unfortunately, I don't. I was surprised at the low numbers also. The tank is 21" in height forgot to mention that. I might run it again cause something doesnt seem right to me. When you do take the readings should the flow be on or off? I assume on as that will be realistic.
 

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Looking good! I really like your rock scape :) I've never used a canister filter so I cannot comment on that, but it sounds like you've got the jump on it as far as the "nitrate factory" claims go ;)
 
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djray77

djray77

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From everything I have watched on youtube (pondguru really knows his stuff when it comes to canisters), as long as you clean them regularly they are great. It seems people leave them for weeks without cleaning and of course that will be a nitrate factory lol.
Many dont like the equipment in the tank and pipes going over the back of the tank, but with everything being black it's not as noticeable to me.
It will be interesting to see how it turns out, I have a 40g breeder with a sump/protein skimmer next to it. So its kind of like my own experiment to see the differences.
 
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Nicholas Dushynsky

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I'm not that up on all the par requirements for all the corals but the levels you have should be ok for most corals as long as sps are higher up. Also I'd do both readings with flow on and off to get a comparison as with gyres the flow is mainly across the surface
 
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djray77

djray77

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So I change the profile to High Growth at 100%, it defiantly made a difference. The support bar in the middle of the tank is whats dropping the numbers in the top middle shelve but not a big deal. Not sure why all across the sandbed in the front is not a huge drop from the middle? I did the test with and without the diffusers and I only notice a difference of 10 par.

Par High Growth.JPG
 

Nicholas Dushynsky

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So I change the profile to High Growth at 100%, it defiantly made a difference. The support bar in the middle of the tank is whats dropping the numbers in the top middle shelve but not a big deal. Not sure why all across the sandbed in the front is not a huge drop from the middle? I did the test with and without the diffusers and I only notice a difference of 10 par.

Par High Growth.JPG
You have a light above each half of the tank and the lights give a cone effect beam down to the bottom so by the time they hit the sand the 2 cones are overlapping so you get light from each light in the middle. They don't blend together in the distance from the surface very much and the brace will cast a shadow anyway. You could try and put the lights at a very slight angle pointing towards the centre. You might gain a couple par in the middle but I guarantee you won't like the angle as it won't look right to the eye, having them not parallel to the top of the tank.
 

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