Nitrate Issue Turned Emergency

[ccombs]

This is a very wise advice and are valid for my post too

I set down and try to do a write up of your issues. Because I´m love to go to the basic - many things happens in the thread while I did the writing - you have get a lot of good advices in this thread that in some way will overide my write up. But I have used 3 hours - I will publish it anway - it will give a solid background: here we goo

Let us try to sort it out. The acute toxicity of NO3 is very, very low and the symptoms you describe is valid for nitrite poising – I do not know anyone that have described nitrate poising because I have never seen any valid description of that. What I have seen of NO3 sub lethal effects in fish farming is more of a lethargic behaviour and very bad appetite. This has been among European eel´s in fresh water and levels well above 400 ppm NO3.

How will it come that this behaviour you describe have been connected to Nitrate (NO3) instead of nitrite (NO2). Let us see how the nitrate measurements work. All – for me known methods – does nor measure NO3 – indeed they measure NO2 and your colour scale report it back to you as ppm NO3. When you start your measurements – you add a powder containing a typical metal (often cadmium) that convert a part of your samples NO3 into NO2. After a certain time, x amount of the NO3 is converted into NO2 and you compare this with your colour chart, and you get a result. Because the whole conversion process is time depended – there is a multiple inbuild in the colour chart – often between 50 and 100 x. This means that if the multiple is 50 – and the test read 1 ppm NO2 – the colour chart report 50 ppm NO3 to you. As you understand – this method demand that your real NO2 level in the sample is zero when you start the test – otherwise you will get false result.

Further NO3 is a product of biological conversation of NH3/NH4 -> NO2 -> NO3 – there is no direct storage or secret hidings of NO3 in a normal tank (if you do not ad pure NaNO3, KNO3 or other NO3 containing molecules) – hence a rise of NO3 from 40 into 160 for one night is not likely at all. However – a rise of NO2 between 0.2 -0.4 into 0.8 – 1.6 ppm during one night is – if not very likely – possible if you have a huge NH3/NH4 input and a very fast working bacteria crew for the first step NH3/NH4 -> NO2.

You say that you will not measure any NO2 at all and that confuse me.

My first advise will therefor be that you get a NO2 test kit that is well known to work in saltwater – you do not tell which you use for the moment – if you 100 % trust this brand – that´s fine for me – but try to valid the readings with another brand

Let sort out the NO2 toxicity. The way that NO2 poising creatures with gills is that NO2 is taken up through certain channels (or ion pumps) from the water into the bloodstream – there it will form an insoluble product together with the bloods hemoglobulin. This product will not be able to take up oxygen and the creature will suffer of oxygen depletion. Hence the symptoms of heavy breathing and so on. However free chloride ions in the water will block the uptake channels (or ion pumps) and no NO2 will be released into the bloodstream of the organism. It has been showed that even very low amounts of chlorides (Cl ions) will block NO2 uptake – around 70 – 80 ppm is enough up to NO2 levels around 1 ppm (80 ppm Cl ions corresponding to around one tablespoon of NaCl into 100 litres of water) There have been some investigation done about desirable relationship between NO2 and Cl ions and normally the relationship is around 40 – 160 times higher Cl ions concentration than NO2 concentration. Saltwater normally contains over 19 000 ppm chlorides. Hence NO2 can been seen as normally of no interest in salt water toxicity.

NO3 and NO2 – nontoxic – where will we stand now? The first product NH3/NH4 - which is secreted via the gills – can be toxic, very toxic. In the US you talk about ammonia and that include both forms NH4 and NH3, in Europe we distinguish two forms - ammoniac (NH3) and ammonium (NH4). This is very handsome when we shall try to understand the toxicity of this complex NH3/NH4. NH3 is a gas and NH4 is its ion. In every water they will exist in a relationship there each compounds amount depends on temperature, pH and altitude. It is a percental relationship. The most important is the pH depending nature. In a little bit unscientific approach, you can say that as more free H ions that exist – the more NH4 will be present. It means – low pH -> more NH4 (ammonium) - lesser NH3 (ammoniac). If the pH changes within a given content of NH3/NH4 – their relationship will change immediately.

At 25 degrees C and pH around 7 the percental part of NH3 is around 0.5 % and the rest (99.5%) is NH4. The same temperature and pH 7.5 -> 1.8 % NH3 and 98.2 % N4; same temperature – pH 8 -> 5.4 % NH3 and 94.6 % NH4; same temperature ph 8.5 -> 15 % as NH3 and 85 % as NH4.

NH4 is non-toxic up in very high values but NH3 is highly toxic in rather low concentrations. The generally accepted rule of thumb is that un-ionized ammonia in excess of 0.02 mg/L is potentially sublethal toxic, though this may vary slightly with species of fish. There is some contradicting investigations too – indicating that at least some fish can tolerate higher levels of long term exposure. Lethal concentrations can vary a lot but – in general – it is higher than we normally think. I think that there has been some confusion between sublethal and lethal levels. The lethal concentrations have been shown to range between 0.2 – over 1 ppm NH3 (ammoniac) (LC50 48 hours -> 50 % of the population dead after 48 hour). If we play safe – a short time exposure of 0.1 ppm NH3 maybe be safe for most of our fishes but long-time exposure should be as low as possible and certainly not exceed 0.02 NH3.

Our normal test equipment gives us the result as combine NH3 and NH4 – only a few analyse NH3 solely – The Seachem ammonia alert is one of the few as I know – personally – I have no experiences of it but many people rely on it. However – with the normal equipment – you must know your pH and temperature in order not to panic. This link gives you a very good calculator in order to see the real NH3 levels at certain NH3/NH4 values, pH and temperature. Note – the alarm is for sublethal effects – not lethal.

Further – IMO – many of the normal tests show 0.2 ppm as standard – even if the real value is zero.

Sorry – this was only the introduction . I´m rather sure that your problem is NOT a nitrogen problem. Your readings of high nitrate can be caused of another compound that interfere with the test


The thing that worries me most is your white stones after 6 months – it looks like a heavy metal (read copper) problem. What’s talking against this is the surviving of your CUC. You have a high alkalinity – can that precipitate CaCO3 in daily way and hinder algae growth – I do not know.


The way I would handle this for the moment (and remember my first sentence in this post )

Stop every dosage of whatever – however with the NoPox I´m not sure – you say it looks better with this – maybe you should go done in dosage first – you decide. Stop using GFO for the moment

Bring down the KH to around 7-8 (You give no idea how you measure alkalinity – I assume you the result in KH – not mg/l or meqv)

KYHD (Keep Your Hand Dry)

Check if you have some pollutants in your inside air – use outside air if you do not have a manure heap outside . With pollutants indoors I am very concern for use of air freshers and scented candles.

One more question – have you done any repairs of the aquarium using Silicon with anti-mold agents? Something is killing your algae and I think that it is very important to figure that out. I think (and remember the first sentence again ) that your white stones is the key in order to understand what’s happen


I´m sorry for long post but I felt it necessary to sort this out properly


Sincerely Lasse

First off, wow...

I am not only impressed by your knowledge, but of the fact you took so much time to try to help me sort through my issue. I really appreciate that and learned a lot just now. I did a lot of studying on the nitrogen cycle and processes involved before I started my tank, but this took a lot of that to the next level.

Just to be sure I understand what you are saying, here is what I plan on doing, correct me if I misunderstand.

1) Remove GFO
2) Continue Dosing NoPox at 3ml and continue to try to work down my dosage
3) Keep hands out of tank. I do pretty well at this but will pay special attention
4) Open window for fresh air near tank
5) Be sure there are no candles or other airborne type artifacts nears tank (I currently keep household cleaning products at a safe distance, etc.)
6) It is ok to add Chaeto

To be sure I understand your post in a sentence. I need to track down issue of rock work looking so clean because that issue is either 1) causing a false reading in my test and messing with the chemistry used, or 2) having some currently unknown side effect with something else.

In regards to some questions:

-I have used API strips for spot checks, but mostly API drop kit for marine and reef.

-I measure in KH.

-No silicon or repairs

 

[ccombs]

Very sorry to hear of your troubles. For what it's worth, I commend you on a very patient and disciplined approach. I guess sometimes even the right choices can have bad outcomes. If you keep up that level of effort, you'll surely have a show-stopping tank very soon. Very odd though that you'd be seeing ammonia on a tank that far along. Seems like even a fish cycle with no bacteria in a bottle would be well and truly cycled by now... at least as far as nitrogen.

Totally guessing, guessing, guessing (just for you to bounce around in your brain) but the only change has been the water to an approach that, otherwise, reads like a recipe for success that only 5% have the patience and discipline to follow. Conditioned tap water, as I understand it, is sub-optimal. You rectified that by going RODI. Is it a brand new RODI or used? Can you check your municipality's water quality report. Maybe unwittingly replaced a sub-par water source with a faulty one?

The fact that water changes reduces your nitrates is confounding and eliminates your RODI as the nitrate source. Other posters made real interesting points about Chloramine breaking down to nitrogen, which would explain lowered... then rising levels.

Two mysteries in one, IMHO. What's killing your fish if 160 Nitrate is rarely lethal, and where are these excessive Nitrates coming from?

This was a brand new RODI and cartridges came with caps and vacuum seal type wrap.

 

[ccombs]

As others have already suggested, I would ditch the API test kits and get something better. I ran into issues with API myself in the past, where brand new test kits were reporting incorrectly and I lost some fish. I personally use Red Sea, they worked well for me.

How much and how often are you feeding? Apologies if this was covered and I missed it.

No problem, lots of content in the thread.

1/2"x1/2" of LRS Reef Frenzy once per day. Fish eat it up and CUC does a good job of getting what they miss.

 

[ccombs]

First off welcome to R2R, and sorry to hear about the tank.

I see you are in Nashville. Depending on which part, we have some good LFS that will test your water for you for free. Just as a fail safe, have you thought about grabbing some and carrying it for a second opinion. I know this may not solve the issue, but if the results from the secondary tests show the same as yours, the process of deduction becomes a lot easier.

Also, if the makeup water is in question, you can have that tested at most of the LFS here. A few of the shops can test for some of the metals. All can test the TDS as well.

But I do agree with Lasse on checking for other environmental factors. A simple Glade Plugin has killed a tank of mine before. Oils get in air, oils get in tank, oils wreak havok.

Best thing to do is to get everything issue wise typed out, review it and see if there are any that are similar. Then post a good little rundown of what all has happened. This will also establish a time line if you can put dates to things. For example, this fish died on XX-XX-XXXX, then nitrates spiked on XX-XX-XXXX. Of course this is an example, but you can use all things you have noticed and get them in a time line.

From a timeline, the people here can look for a common issue and possibly find the start of the issue.

But either way, hang in there. The tank is not packed with corals and a ton of fish. This makes getting things straightened out a lot easier. If worst case a reboot is needed, it is also a lot simpler. Even if the rock has to be trashed for contaminants, do not fret about it. I have a ton of cycled rock or dry rock you can have lol. Even some clean dry sand if needed.

One way or another, we can get this worked out. That is what I love about this forum and the local reef club here in the Nashville area.

LFS has verified my tests. Not sure what they use, I will ask next time around.

I posted a stocking timeline earlier with purchases and deaths. I am referencing my receipts of equipment to try to find a correlation. I am doing the best I can for accuracy, so this updated timeline should be pretty close.

Now that I have it all typed out the only correlation I am seeing is the RODI....Interesting.....

Week 1-Cycled with Dr Tims and Clownfish (1 Fish Total)
-Water parameters pretty normal with bacteria start up. I don't have my exact readings, but nothing abnormal.
-Used API Water Conditioner
-Protein Skimmer Added on Week 2, took about a week to start skimming properly as it built up slime coat
Week 6-Added Blenny (2 Fish Total)
-White Algae Bloom About Now.
-UV Filter Added-Algae Bloom Resolved Quickly
-Bag Of Carbon/Filter Floss Added
-LFS confirms test
Week 12-Added Goby (3 Fish Total)
-Protein Skimmer Impeller Malfunction, No Voltage Leak, Just Loud. Cleaned Unit, Replaced Impeller. Slime coat took about a week to rebuild.
-LFS confirms test
-GSP added here roughly, does alright for a few days then closes
Week 16-Added 2x Chromis-Chromis Attacked and Killed In First Few Days (5 Fish, Back to 3 Fish)
-Switched to RODI
-Nitrates begin to rise, Ammonia and Nitrite Still Normal
-With Nitrates about 80, LFS recommended adding Mangrove
-Mangrove Added
-LFS confirms test
-GSP looks pretty good for 5-10 days somewhere in here. I assume it had previously closed due to being unhappy with transfer from store.
Week 18-Added Dwarf Angel (4 Fish Total)
-GSP Closed Again
-Somewhere around here the Nitrates reach peak of 160 after uncontrollable rise since week 16.
Week 18-20-Blenny/Goby Death (2 Fish Total)
-Cannot get Nitrates to get down below 160ppm.
-5 gallon water changes daily for a week.
-Nitrates would drop but then come back up overnight
-Blenny/Goby death leads to dirty rocks and sand
Week 21-Added 2x Bangaii Cardinal (4 Fish Total)
-GFO bag added to Overflow
Week 23-Added Clean Up Crew
-CUC gets rid of fuzzy algae on rocks
-Xenia added, looks fantastic for 3 days then shrinks once I begin using NoPox, I know xenia and carbon dosing aren't friends so I looked forward to stopping NoPox
-Added gyre to compliment return pump so I can have good water movement and good surface agitation
-Begin Dosing NoPox 'Emergency' dose of 5ml/day. I also used a capful of Prime for the first few days but then stopped as discussed earlier.
-Nitrates begin to fall and I am relieved, best reading was between 10-20ppm so I begin to slowly lower dose.
Week 25-1 Cardinal Died (3 Fish Total)
-Lowering dose leads to Nitrates rising again. Currently at 40ppm as of last night. Current dose amount is 3ml/day.

About to start week 26. Keep in mind all other parameters outside of Nitrates (and my little alk spike from the buffer) seemed good this whole time per API strips/drops/LFS.

I will not be adding anymore livestock to tank no matter what happens with current fish until resolved. They have been fighters so I hope they make it.

 

[ccombs]

Very sorry to hear of your troubles. For what it's worth, I commend you on a very patient and disciplined approach. I guess sometimes even the right choices can have bad outcomes. If you keep up that level of effort, you'll surely have a show-stopping tank very soon. Very odd though that you'd be seeing ammonia on a tank that far along. Seems like even a fish cycle with no bacteria in a bottle would be well and truly cycled by now... at least as far as nitrogen.

Totally guessing, guessing, guessing (just for you to bounce around in your brain) but the only change has been the water to an approach that, otherwise, reads like a recipe for success that only 5% have the patience and discipline to follow. Conditioned tap water, as I understand it, is sub-optimal. You rectified that by going RODI. Is it a brand new RODI or used? Can you check your municipality's water quality report. Maybe unwittingly replaced a sub-par water source with a faulty one?

The fact that water changes reduces your nitrates is confounding and eliminates your RODI as the nitrate source. Other posters made real interesting points about Chloramine breaking down to nitrogen, which would explain lowered... then rising levels.

Two mysteries in one, IMHO. What's killing your fish if 160 Nitrate is rarely lethal, and where are these excessive Nitrates coming from?

I really appreciate the kind words. It is frustrating to do the research, follow the rules, and still have head scratching results haha. It is encouraging that at least the time/effort is noticed!

 

[H3rm1tCr@b]

Have you struggled with nitrate since the system started or has this all been recent? A sudden swing to 160 would have to be caused by something. Can you think of anything different you did or added around that time? I wouldn’t think 3 fish in a 6 month old tank could be producing that much even after water changes but I could be wrong. But I wonder if there’s something in there rotting or some other source causing the nutrients

that is exactly what I was thinking. also sorry if I provided incorrect info with the nitrates. Im pretty sure they killed one of my fish before, or it was phosphate IDK I cant remember too well :confused:

 

[H3rm1tCr@b]

Um also I just learned a ton more from lasse! again! geez im a noob for sure! I hope you figure out the issue. Maybe your heater burnt the fish somehow, or there's a mantis shrimp. This is a really weird issue. Good luck and I hope my input helps! :)

 

[Eagle_Steve]

LFS has verified my tests. Not sure what they use, I will ask next time around.

I posted a stocking timeline earlier with purchases and deaths. I am referencing my receipts of equipment to try to find a correlation. I am doing the best I can for accuracy, so this updated timeline should be pretty close.

Now that I have it all typed out the only correlation I am seeing is the RODI....Interesting.....

Week 1-Cycled with Dr Tims and Clownfish (1 Fish Total)
-Water parameters pretty normal with bacteria start up. I don't have my exact readings, but nothing abnormal.
-Used API Water Conditioner
-Protein Skimmer Added on Week 2, took about a week to start skimming properly as it built up slime coat
Week 6-Added Blenny (2 Fish Total)
-White Algae Bloom About Now.
-UV Filter Added-Algae Bloom Resolved Quickly
-Bag Of Carbon/Filter Floss Added
-LFS confirms test
Week 12-Added Goby (3 Fish Total)
-Protein Skimmer Impeller Malfunction, No Voltage Leak, Just Loud. Cleaned Unit, Replaced Impeller. Slime coat took about a week to rebuild.
-LFS confirms test
-GSP added here roughly, does alright for a few days then closes
Week 16-Added 2x Chromis-Chromis Attacked and Killed In First Few Days (5 Fish, Back to 3 Fish)
-Switched to RODI
-Nitrates begin to rise, Ammonia and Nitrite Still Normal
-With Nitrates about 80, LFS recommended adding Mangrove
-Mangrove Added
-LFS confirms test
-GSP looks pretty good for 5-10 days somewhere in here. I assume it had previously closed due to being unhappy with transfer from store.
Week 18-Added Dwarf Angel (4 Fish Total)
-GSP Closed Again
-Somewhere around here the Nitrates reach peak of 160 after uncontrollable rise since week 16.
Week 18-20-Blenny/Goby Death (2 Fish Total)
-Cannot get Nitrates to get down below 160ppm.
-5 gallon water changes daily for a week.
-Nitrates would drop but then come back up overnight
-Blenny/Goby death leads to dirty rocks and sand
Week 21-Added 2x Bangaii Cardinal (4 Fish Total)
-GFO bag added to Overflow
Week 23-Added Clean Up Crew
-CUC gets rid of fuzzy algae on rocks
-Xenia added, looks fantastic for 3 days then shrinks once I begin using NoPox, I know xenia and carbon dosing aren't friends so I looked forward to stopping NoPox
-Added gyre to compliment return pump so I can have good water movement and good surface agitation
-Begin Dosing NoPox 'Emergency' dose of 5ml/day. I also used a capful of Prime for the first few days but then stopped as discussed earlier.
-Nitrates begin to fall and I am relieved, best reading was between 10-20ppm so I begin to slowly lower dose.
Week 25-1 Cardinal Died (3 Fish Total)
-Lowering dose leads to Nitrates rising again. Currently at 40ppm as of last night. Current dose amount is 3ml/day.

About to start week 26. Keep in mind all other parameters outside of Nitrates (and my little alk spike from the buffer) seemed good this whole time per API strips/drops/LFS.

I will not be adding anymore livestock to tank no matter what happens with current fish until resolved. They have been fighters so I hope they make it.

So the nitrates started to rise once swapped to rodi?

This may seem like a stupid question, so do not take it the wrong way, as I did this when hooking a second rodi up under a sink.

Are you by chance using the waste water line on accident?

Like I said, I did it as my long lanky self could get under the sink very well. I caught it when I tested the tds after hookup and it was higher than my tap lol.

 

[ccombs]

So the nitrates started to rise once swapped to rodi?

This may seem like a stupid question, so do not take it the wrong way, as I did this when hooking a second rodi up under a sink.

Are you by chance using the waste water line on accident?

Like I said, I did it as my long lanky self could get under the sink very well. I caught it when I tested the tds after hookup and it was higher than my tap lol.

It is an under sink unit and I checked multiple times while installing that it wasn't the waste line. Now I am thinking it might be worth a second look! I will let you know what I find.

The RODI has a 3:1 Waste to RODI water ratio. My water comes out slow enough already, I can't imagine how long everything will take if I have it hooked up backwards and the correct way is 3x as slow!

Like I said earlier, I am not trying to preserve any pride here, I just want a solution. I am back in town tomorrow and I will triple check to be sure it is hooked up right. I appreciate the input and I look forward to checking it out!

Note: I did flush all filters and cartridges per manufacturers spec. I even called their customer support line to verify I flushed enough.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

It is an under sink unit and I checked multiple times while installing that it wasn't the waste line. Now I am thinking it might be worth a second look! I will let you know what I find.

The RODI has a 3:1 Waste to RODI water ratio. My water comes out slow enough already, I can't imagine how long everything will take if I have it hooked up backwards and the correct way is 3x as slow!

Like I said earlier, I am not trying to preserve any pride here, I just want a solution. I am back in town tomorrow and I will triple check to be sure it is hooked up right. I appreciate the input and I look forward to checking it out!

Note: I did flush all filters and cartridges per manufacturers spec. I even called their customer support line to verify I flushed enough.

I am trying to think simple, as most of my issues have always been something simple or an error on my part.

If it is hooked up right and the tds is coming out at 0, my next step would be to test a batch of freshly made salt water. Maybe a bad bucket or something.

Get the basic easy to check things off the list and then work from there.

 

[ccombs]

I am trying to think simple, as most of my issues have always been something simple or an error on my part.

If it is hooked up right and the tds is coming out at 0, my next step would be to test a batch of freshly made salt water. Maybe a bad bucket or something.

Get the basic easy to check things off the list and then work from there.

These simple things always get you. Finding the simple thing I forgot to do could be in my job description at work lol.

I will apply this tomorrow when I get home and think through the basic things. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Not a problem.

I might also be in Nashville this weekend. If so, I could grab some water from ya and test it via Red Sea, salifert and Hanna. I have almost all parameters in Red Sea and salifert. For Hanna, I have the big 3 plus the normal phosphate and have the copper for my qt tank testing. If am up that way, it wouldn’t be a big deal for me, as without help from local reefers back in the day, I wouldn't have a tank. Let alone 7 at this point lol.

 

[garbled]

So some quick random notes.

1) If you have trouble with the color changes, get a hanna checker for things that you can. It's so much more reliable to have a computer read it for you. It might not be more accurate, but it is more repeatable. So you know that if it was 24 and now it's 25, it went up, for certain.

2) Many Nitrate test kits have you add water to dilute the sample in order to read the high end of the kit, and straight tank water for the 0-20ppm readings or whatever. If you are reading 160, obviously it's the high end. When I was doing this, I was taking water from the R/O I have for the sink (drinking water). Kept reading super high. Then one day I grabbed water from the topoff, ie, the RO/DI. Guess what? WAY lower. Turns out my sink RO water has nitrates.

3) I had high phosphates (and what I thought were high nitrates), and so I started running Chaeto. Grew like mad. Phosphates weren't coming down, so I threw GFO in super heavy (its a long story, irrelevant). GFO wiped my phosphates out. Like down to undetectable. Chaeto all died. Get the GFO off there if you want to run nopox or chaeto.

4) I really don't recommend any of the weird "ph buffer 8.3" or similar powders. I think they are all nonsense. Don't chase pH. Only use 2part or kalk or whatever to do calcium/alk. Buffers are just snake oil IMHO.

 

[ccombs]

Not a problem.

I might also be in Nashville this weekend. If so, I could grab some water from ya and test it via Red Sea, salifert and Hanna. I have almost all parameters in Red Sea and salifert. For Hanna, I have the big 3 plus the normal phosphate and have the copper for my qt tank testing. If am up that way, it wouldn’t be a big deal for me, as without help from local reefers back in the day, I wouldn't have a tank. Let alone 7 at this point lol.

Hit me up if you are around any time soon. My neighbor who was a reefer moved away right as I started the tank so he never got to see it. I would love for someone that has experience to be able to look at my situation in person and tell me what I am doing wrong. Lunch is on me if we can make it happen!

I appreciate the kind offer!

 

[ccombs]

So some quick random notes.

1) If you have trouble with the color changes, get a hanna checker for things that you can. It's so much more reliable to have a computer read it for you. It might not be more accurate, but it is more repeatable. So you know that if it was 24 and now it's 25, it went up, for certain.

2) Many Nitrate test kits have you add water to dilute the sample in order to read the high end of the kit, and straight tank water for the 0-20ppm readings or whatever. If you are reading 160, obviously it's the high end. When I was doing this, I was taking water from the R/O I have for the sink (drinking water). Kept reading super high. Then one day I grabbed water from the topoff, ie, the RO/DI. Guess what? WAY lower. Turns out my sink RO water has nitrates.

3) I had high phosphates (and what I thought were high nitrates), and so I started running Chaeto. Grew like mad. Phosphates weren't coming down, so I threw GFO in super heavy (its a long story, irrelevant). GFO wiped my phosphates out. Like down to undetectable. Chaeto all died. Get the GFO off there if you want to run nopox or chaeto.

4) I really don't recommend any of the weird "ph buffer 8.3" or similar powders. I think they are all nonsense. Don't chase pH. Only use 2part or kalk or whatever to do calcium/alk. Buffers are just snake oil IMHO.

I appreciate the tips. I certainly want to get at least a few of the checkers. I used the buffer against my gut. Normally I don't like adding things to my tank like that if I do not have to, this just reinforced that belief, lesson learned.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Hit me up if you are around any time soon. My neighbor who was a reefer moved away right as I started the tank so he never got to see it. I would love for someone that has experience to be able to look at my situation in person and tell me what I am doing wrong. Lunch is on me if we can make it happen!

I appreciate the kind offer!

No lunch needed. Like I said, if it wasn’t for others I would have killed everything and gave up. I figure pay it forward and pay back others that helped me by trying to help someone else.

 

[Ted Anton]

Hi I had a similar issue with a newly cycled tank but not that high nitrate value
I was starring at my sump and looked at me filter socks and it hit me totally forgot to change them out they were pretty awful
That could be one of the factors contributing to your high levels if your filtration system is not clean

Good luck

 

[elisa h]

Another thought - ATI does icp testing where you can send in your tank water as well as your rodi water to see what exactly is in it. Could be worth a try.

 

[ccombs]

Another thought - ATI does icp testing where you can send in your tank water as well as your rodi water to see what exactly is in it. Could be worth a try.

That is a great idea. Once I implement my game plan tomorrow I am going to give the tank some time. If I am still having in a few weeks I will start taking the steps to send the sample in. I'm going to start researching the process now.

 

[Joey Merrell]

Get an icp test done by Triton. And it sounds to me that every time you introduce a fish the parameters spike. The tank seems to be recycling. So it has to be either something has been breaking down in the tank and causing this, or chlorine or chloramine has been introduced and kicked it all off again. No algae on the rock at 6 months is for sure odd. I agree with another poster that the fish deaths look more like nitrite poisoning, but then the inverts are just rocking along...I'm perplexed, and going to have to hit my wife up for her to use that Bachelor of science with a major in chemistry we will be paying for until we retire, for some more ideas.