Nitrates bottoming out

davidandrzej9

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Hello guys, im currently a month into my reef tank, and on my weekly tests my nitrate levels have steadily been dropping from 6.7 ppm to now 0.5ppm. I believe this is the reason why my frogspawn and hammers haven't been fully extending. My phosphate is 0.03, and my question is how can I safely increase my nitrates without overfeeding my fish? I just fed my corals with reef roids to hopefully bring in more nutrients.
 
I feel there is not enough info in your post offer a suggestion...

Are these 2 frags, or large colonies? I'm skeptical to think 2 frags in a one month old tank is consuming that much nutrients.
Do you test alk? Is it stable?
What size is the tank? How many fish? How often do you feed and what do you feed? What is your filtration? What is your lighting and flow? Can we see a tank pic?
 
Its different than the ammonia that is harmful so it's confusing. The article I linked can explain it better than I can. I've dosed both and coral look better dosing ammonium vs dosing nitrate.
New tank you may want to wait a while before deciding to dose. The tank is going through a lot of changes right now and may stabilize on it's own.
 
Its different than the ammonia that is harmful so it's confusing.
Ammonia (NH₃) and Ammonium (NH₄) always exist in an equilibrium based on mostly pH in water. So regardless of adding ammonia or ammonium you will be "adding both" every time and there is no "safer" or "less harmful" way to do it. When you look at the small amounts being added by Randy's suggestions it becomes apparent why it isn't dangerous to fish or corals though. People often have a wrong idea of how much total ammonia (NH₃ + NH₄) you actually need to reach dangerous ammonia (NH₃) levels in a reef tank.

In our reef tanks with a pH around 8 the equilibrium is very far on the side of ammonium (NH₄), so something like 93% of the total ammonia (NH₃ + NH₄) is ammonium (NH₄) and only 7% is ammonia (NH₃). Theoretically it doesn't even matter if you start bubbling pure ammonia gas into the tank, the equilibrium would ensure 93% of it becomes ammonium as long (as the pH doesn't drop).
Scientific papers often use a different method of measuring ammonia and that's probably why people started to believe small amounts like 0.1ppm or 0.2ppm would already be dangerous, when in fact there still is a lot of headroom until you would cause any detectable damage.

My tank is new, not sure how well it could process ammonia, wouldnt dosing straight nitrate be safer?
You start by adding something like 0.1ppm total ammonia (NH₃ + NH₄) which is completely safe when ammonia is currently undetectable. You do so every x hours and if you see ammonia accumulating (so your test actually starts to detect something), you know there is more than enough nitrogen in your system and you don't even need to dose that much (or anything).
Ammonia is taken up very rapidly and your tests won't detect any ammonia accumulating when the tank is actually "nitrogen starved".

If you had more animals in your tank that would increase nitrate to detectable levels they would also release ammonia so dosing it is not more dangerous than having more animals in the tank as long as you do it in small portions 😊

Oh, and also Mr. Mojo is right, I think we need more info before we can even say if nitrogen depletion is an actual issue in your tank.
 
Ammonia (NH₃) and Ammonium (NH₄) always exist in an equilibrium based on mostly pH in water. So regardless of adding ammonia or ammonium you will be "adding both" every time and there is no "safer" or "less harmful" way to do it. When you look at the small amounts being added by Randy's suggestions it becomes apparent why it isn't dangerous to fish or corals though. People often have a wrong idea of how much total ammonia (NH₃ + NH₄) you actually need to reach dangerous ammonia (NH₃) levels in a reef tank.

In our reef tanks with a pH around 8 the equilibrium is very far on the side of ammonium (NH₄), so something like 93% of the total ammonia (NH₃ + NH₄) is ammonium (NH₄) and only 7% is ammonia (NH₃). Theoretically it doesn't even matter if you start bubbling pure ammonia gas into the tank, the equilibrium would ensure 93% of it becomes ammonium as long (as the pH doesn't drop).
Scientific papers often use a different method of measuring ammonia and that's probably why people started to believe small amounts like 0.1ppm or 0.2ppm would already be dangerous, when in fact there still is a lot of headroom until you would cause any detectable damage.


You start by adding something like 0.1ppm total ammonia (NH₃ + NH₄) which is completely safe when ammonia is currently undetectable. You do so every x hours and if you see ammonia accumulating (so your test actually starts to detect something), you know there is more than enough nitrogen in your system and you don't even need to dose that much (or anything).
Ammonia is taken up very rapidly and your tests won't detect any ammonia accumulating when the tank is actually "nitrogen starved".

If you had more animals in your tank that would increase nitrate to detectable levels they would also release ammonia so dosing it is not more dangerous than having more animals in the tank as long as you do it in small portions 😊

Oh, and also Mr. Mojo is right, I think we need more info before we can even say if nitrogen depletion is an actual issue in your tank.
This is exactly why I did not try explain it. I couldn't if I had to lol. Thanks!
 
This is exactly why I did not try explain it. I couldn't if I had to lol. Thanks!
You kind of have to be into chemistry, and most people don't really need to understand the details, so I get it. 😊
Forwarding OP to Randy's thread was the right thing to do. Very good advice on your part.

I just wanted to give a short summary because the DIY ammonia solution thread only explains part of it, while Randy's actual article on ammonia is really long and goes into far more detail. I personally love that, but for OP, who apparently just started their tank, it might be a bit overwhelming.
 

WHICH PART OF YOUR SETUP IS HARDEST TO REACH OR REMOVE FOR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE?

  • Glass behind or beside the tank

    Votes: 11 22.0%
  • Powerheads or wavemakers

    Votes: 4 8.0%
  • Sump or rear filtration chambers

    Votes: 7 14.0%
  • Skimmer or other filtration equipment

    Votes: 6 12.0%
  • Overflow or plumbing

    Votes: 10 20.0%
  • Lights or lids

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Mine is pretty easy to access!

    Votes: 11 22.0%
  • Other—tell us what I missed

    Votes: 1 2.0%
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