Orchid Dottyback Breeding Attempt

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PeterLL

PeterLL

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Well I don't know a ton about this particular subeject. But in the book, Moe had big problems with some type of bacteria killing his larvae. And we (the lab I intern at) use UV specifically to reduce bacterial populations and we severely limit surface area. It is a problem that seems to be preventable with little work. Moe used lots of antibiotics. But I suppose it's worth a shot, but I'd try to get the process down before experimenting too much.
Fair enough, Thank You I can imagine with his food collecting from the ocean he must of had a huge amount of different things getting into the tanks.
 
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Video update! Still see similar number to as hatch day. I’m kind of hoping that the first days are the hardest/have the most loss and it’s all been going well so far.

As standard, make sure to turn to 1080 and restart the video to be able to see.


In a weeks time going to start with BBS, Pods and ZM 200 dry food, but for now it’s enriched Rotifers.
 

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Video update! Still see similar number to as hatch day. I’m kind of hoping that the first days are the hardest/have the most loss and it’s all been going well so far.

As standard, make sure to turn to 1080 and restart the video to be able to see.


In a weeks time going to start with BBS, Pods and ZM 200 dry food, but for now it’s enriched Rotifers.
Day 5-7 (flexion) are where a lot of deaths happen. Should settle between 21 and 28 days.
 

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looks like your water could use some more tinting.
 
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Day 5-7 (flexion) are where a lot of deaths happen. Should settle between 21 and 28 days.
Oh :(
What’s the reason for that? What measures can be done to prevent deaths?
looks like your water could use some more tinting.
I know, I don’t have any phytoplankton culturing, so nothing to tint with. If this batch fails, I’ll reasses my love food strategy and likely culture Isochrysis Galbana along with parvocalanus.
 
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nutrition. Ideal is parvocalanus nauplii. But enriched rots will bring plenty through.
I see, hopefully I can still keep a good few alive. The Rotifera are feed daily with a feed of Nannochloropsis and tetras. And then enriched with a decent splash of Nannochlorpsis and Isochrysis. I feed a few times a day about a litres strained and always see Rotifers in the water column of the larval bucket
 
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@Wolf89.
As of right now I am feeding purely rotifers. I would like to start feeding different foods. They are currently about 4 days old. Amongst BBS which I will start feeding on Saturday at day 9, and Tigriopus pods on day 8 (>250um adults will be strained out), I was thinking of adding some fry food ASAP: I was thinking this: https://seahorsebreeder.co.uk/store...-fish-feed-premium-japanese-fish-food-75-250m

My question is, what size should I get/ and at what age should I start feeding them:
Here are the sizes:


I'm thinking A to feed for a couple weeks, and then B2 onwards until they are about a month old and can start to feed on a lot more. What do you think?
Thank You!
 
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I use the same dry food from seahorse in UK for my clown fish fry. The A is for only about 4 days. Of course that is for clowns ... your fish might be different. Here is the chart for clowns ...

1612199534782.png
 

Wolf89

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@Wolf89.
As of right now I am feeding purely rotifers. I would like to start feeding different foods. They are currently about 4 days old. Amongst BBS which I will start feeding on Saturday at day 9, and Tigriopus pods on day 8 (>250um adults will be strained out), I was thinking of adding some fry food ASAP: I was thinking this: https://seahorsebreeder.co.uk/store...-fish-feed-premium-japanese-fish-food-75-250m

My question is, what size should I get/ and at what age should I start feeding them:
Here are the sizes:


I'm thinking A to feed for a couple weeks, and then B2 onwards until they are about a month old and can start to feed on a lot more. What do you think?
Thank You!
I don't know for sure! But you can start introducing the stuff as soon as you want. A is like a powder, you can introduce that stuff pretty soon.
 
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Awesome thanks both.
That chare lays it out really well.
Looks like I'll do A for only about a week or so from now and then slowly move up. TBH will probably keep rotifers going until it seems they no longer go after them as long as it doesn't do any harm don't see a reason to stop
 
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I am planning to breed dottybacks myself. I have been reading this with interest. Got the book last night. I am in central Europe. Where did you get your breeding pair?
I'm Europe too, UK to be exact. I had one orchid for a few years in my previous tank. Once I upgraded the tank I got a smaller second one from my local fish shop. Within a couple months they were spawning. Both mine were tank bred too but think that is just cause of my preference.
 
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Update (I’ll try not spam this thread much more!)
I’ve noticed they seem to act much more like little fishes already, instead of aimlessly floating and jerking about in the water they start to actively swim and almost shoal with others (see how they’re all in the same direction, before it was a mix of everything)
They are also clearly eating a huge amount more. Day 1 I could constantly see rotifers in the water even hours after feeding, now an hour after a rotifer feeding the waters clear again. Got Otohime A arriving tomorrow which is good as I’m worried my cultures can’t produce enough rotifers atm.
Sadly, noticed some small fishy corpses at the bottom - only 4-5 that I siphoned out but represents the first deaths I’ve noticed so far. Was expected though and the vast majority seem healthy.

348D5F63-A092-4746-9A5B-5CC543ED948D.jpeg
 

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@Wolf89 At what age did you start to us a biological filter to remove ammonia and nitrite's as opposed to an ammonia detoxifier?
Considering adding this: https://www.seachem.com/stability.php as I start to move to dry foods.
Well you really can just eyeball it. You can add a small spongefilter + your bacteria when you feel comfortable that the fish are strong enough to resist the suction. Its hard to give an exact age with such variable growth. But with your descriptions it may be time!
 
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Well you really can just eyeball it. You can add a small spongefilter + your bacteria when you feel comfortable that the fish are strong enough to resist the suction. Its hard to give an exact age with such variable growth. But with your descriptions it may be time!
Awesome thanks, I'll try pick some up ASAP!
 
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