Here is a much more in depth thread on R2R if you are interested: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/smartphone-camera-filter-comparison.634162/
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Thanks I will check it out. Just wanting something simple so take some great photos to share with ym friends, who dont really care about my tank but enjoy seeing the pics. lolHere is a much more in depth thread on R2R if you are interested: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/smartphone-camera-filter-comparison.634162/
Here is a much more in depth thread on R2R if you are interested: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/smartphone-camera-filter-comparison.634162/
Yes thanks for your help! They are the amazon ones that you linked. Very happy with em.@Dani305 Wow! Those look like they are working great!
Great to know, because I'll likely swing back to order some myself. Forgive me for not remembering, but do you take your photographs on a cellphone or on a DSLR? I'll probably buy a set for both my iPhone but also for my Nikon.Yes thanks for your help! They are the amazon ones that you linked. Very happy with em.
I have an iphone 13 proGreat to know, because I'll likely swing back to order some myself. Forgive me for not remembering, but do you take your photographs on a cellphone or on a DSLR? I'll probably buy a set for both my iPhone but also for my Nikon.
No not doing anything on purpose! Hmmmm I am getting the HANNA phosphate checker this weekend. It took more than a week to deliver.Are you intentionally keeping your phosphate at zero? From what I have read elsewhere on R2R, it seems common to keep phosphate between 0.3 - 1.0 ppm. Could that be impacting the vitality of your montes and gonis?
I wish I had the experience to respond confidently. Unfortunately, I am still very new to this hobby and so can only offer what feedback I have read elsewhere. moved with frequency. It could be that the chemical swings have made the gonis unhappy, and it could also be the case that moving them in the tank is causing some unhappiness as well. You may consider letting them settle where they are until you have a consistent dosing pattern, and then trying to move them again if they are still unhappy.No not doing anything on purpose! Hmmmm I am getting the HANNA phosphate checker this weekend. It took more than a week to deliver.
My LFS didnt say anything about it tho. He did say that the gonis like to be at 8-9 alk.
On March 5, my alk was 104 or under 6.0 dkh, which was low. So I was advised to dose, and raise... which is what I did. On March 19 my alk was 147 which is about 8.0 dkh. When I first dosed, the white goni improved. I did dose again one more time...I think then it started declining.
I tested the alk again March 22 (Tuesday) on my Hanna Alk tester and I was at 9.2.
Maybe the swing was too much?
I will adjust the light in the fuge! ....I feed two times a day... either bloodworms, or missis, and maybe some of this mix conch, and fish pieces. Then I throw in pellets one of those feeding times. I feed phyto every few days. Also I have some small fish which I think are smelts and I feed my shrimp and emerald crabs, cuc with that every few days.Every living thing needs phosphate, a reading of 0 is not good and would be causing stress / coral issues, the hanna is a great buy! I’m guessing you do have phosphate but something is sucking it up before corals get to enjoy / use. Maybe less refugium light time to allow corals to get nutrient and feed more pellets / nori just my 2c , I’m no expert or anything lol
Thank you! Its so funny that right after I responded to your post I searched "What are the ideal tank parameters?" LOLI wish I had the experience to respond confidently. Unfortunately, I am still very new to this hobby and so can only offer what feedback I have read elsewhere. moved with frequency. It could be that the chemical swings have made the gonis unhappy, and it could also be the case that moving them in the tank is causing some unhappiness as well. You may consider letting them settle where they are until you have a consistent dosing pattern, and then trying to move them again if they are still unhappy.
Based on what I read on R2R, I created a table of parameters for the tank. I wonder what your LFS would say about these values?
Ye mysis / worms are high in nitrate and low in phosphate that may be helping , I would add nori by putting it under a small rock so cuc can enjoy it as well. Fish will learn to eat it, takes some time. Can always dose neophos for phosphate , I would wait until you get yr Hanna for that. I run my tank 20-40 ppm nitrate , .1-.3 phosphate , alk 9-11, calc 450 , mg 1350. I like to keep nutrients elevated so everything has a chance to use it whenever it needs. It it every got too high I simply leave my refugium light on longer and change foodsI will adjust the light in the fuge! ....I feed two times a day... either bloodworms, or missis, and maybe some of this mix conch, and fish pieces. Then I throw in pellets one of those feeding times. I feed phyto every few days. Also I have some small fish which I think are smelts and I feed my shrimp and emerald crabs, cuc with that every few days.
I recently, last week purchased nori, but all the fish are afraid of it.. I have put a 4''x4'' square in twice so far. I think once it falls apart some of the fish eat it.
Im still waiting for my phos hanna checker... so annoying... I ordered it on the 14th! I hope to get some better results than my at home api test kit.
What other ways to increase the phos?
Thank you for the suggestions! Nori for breakfast it will be.Ye mysis / worms are high in nitrate and low in phosphate that may be helping , I would add nori by putting it under a small rock so cuc can enjoy it as well. Fish will learn to eat it, takes some time. Can always dose neophos for phosphate , I would wait until you get yr Hanna for that. I run my tank 20-40 ppm nitrate , .1-.3 phosphate , alk 9-11, calc 450 , mg 1350. I like to keep nutrients elevated so everything has a chance to use it whenever it needs. It it every got too high I simply leave my refugium light on longer and change foods