Perry's 90 Gallon Acro Dominant Bommie

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You shouldn't have to replace those bulbs every six months unless overdriving them. 12-14 months is reasonable.

I personally go a year, try not to exceed. Thinking of a slight bulb combo myself, 2xP+, 2xABS, 2xB+
Haven't purchased yet, but may do KZ 2xC+, 2xSB, 2xFP
I have had tremendous success with that KZ combo, I tried the FP back in 2006, fell in love with results, but they are expensive, I may need to design my bulb swap out around KZ's anual 25% off sales with vendors.
ATI are still amazing in their own right too :)
 

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Hi John,
Agreed, I absolutely love my fox, it's belly is so fat, an eating machine, with a great personality :) I probably have about another year or so, and either upgrade, or replace. I have 10 fish, but the fox is the only large capable species, no tangs in the 90 gallon. So, maybe longer before outgrowing the system.
I spent a pretty penny on my CUC addition, but got it all local. I will have to match that purchase in t5 bulb swap soon, lol, always something draining the bank, ha,ha, ha... ;)
Good news though, 14 hours since hitting the tank, and wow, the rock is getting picked and polished. I don't know your experience with Mexican Red Leg Hermits, but they are so darn effective. Was turned on to them only 6 years ago, always used blue legs and scarlets. Red Legs destroy algae, and will always have a place in my systems regardless of sand or bb.
Cheers
I’ve seen the mex red legs, but never kept them. I may have to pick up a couple? I usually keep more scarlets than blue legs because they are less murderous, but I’m heavy on snails and only keep a handful of hermits. I just picked up two tropical abalones from Unique this week and they’re a pretty cool addition.
 
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I’ve seen the mex red legs, but never kept them. I may have to pick up a couple? I usually keep more scarlets than blue legs because they are less murderous, but I’m heavy on snails and only keep a handful of hermits. I just picked up two tropical abalones from Unique this week and they’re a pretty cool addition.
Very cool, I never had an abalone, I will have to keep an eye on your thread regarding them. Yeah, check out those hermits...

My reef is being picked apart by the CUC additions, but those darn dinos came right back after cutting UV, ugh!
15 gallon water change today, sump clean, siphoning nasties, yada, yada, yada... UV on!

I decided to stop dosing anything to the tank, not even bacteria. I have a bottle of AF Bio S on the way, nitrifying bacteria, that I will use to re-seed the tank later. Also, kalkwasser back online, will eventually saturate to 2 tsps, but at 1 tsp per gallon, it's keeping up as top off at maintaining main minerals.

Here's the tank, yes the rock is looking pukey, but corals look good, lol.

20220305_182138.jpg
 

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Very cool, I never had an abalone, I will have to keep an eye on your thread regarding them. Yeah, check out those hermits...

My reef is being picked apart by the CUC additions, but those darn dinos came right back after cutting UV, ugh!
15 gallon water change today, sump clean, siphoning nasties, yada, yada, yada... UV on!

I decided to stop dosing anything to the tank, not even bacteria. I have a bottle of AF Bio S on the way, nitrifying bacteria, that I will use to re-seed the tank later. Also, kalkwasser back online, will eventually saturate to 2 tsps, but at 1 tsp per gallon, it's keeping up as top off at maintaining main minerals.

Here's the tank, yes the rock is looking pukey, but corals look good, lol.

20220305_182138.jpg
Why did you turn your uv off to begin with? Mine runs 24/7 unless I’m doing some sort of tank treatment
 
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Why did you turn your uv off to begin with? Mine runs 24/7 unless I’m doing some sort of tank treatment

Hi Charlie,
I never intended to use UV 24/7, it was purchased as a tool for problematic times. I believe that my "foul rock" is finally, after 3+ years wet, getting beneath the surface, it seems each layer releases nutrients that have been locked up for years. Go back to my 60 gallon previous setup, all those fails were likely associated to whatever was binding. I should have killed all the rock in hindsight, and started fresh.
That said, I was trying to seed heavy with bacteria, as to continue processing the rock, getting bacteria to out-compete algaes. To me, bacteria and UV seem counterproductive together. Anyway, I am going to rest on this type of system:
1. Skimmer 24/ 7 drawing fresh air
2. Passive GAC
3. Siporax, passive, middle compartment sump, heavy flow running by use of power head.
4. Kalkwasser to maintain ionic balance used with BRS dosing pump, for ATO
5. UV 24/7 this may change, still not sure if needed long-term, but until rock is looking thoroughly clean
6. Occasional bacteria supplement, probably post water change

Simply put, I am just going to let things run as simple as possible, getting back to basics.
Cheers
 

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;Stig
 

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Sam..
I have been so close, even tried 2 kessil a360we with a500x, and quite positive it could have all worked out. Because I am so old school, and used to raising fixtures or lowering for effect, I struggle with placement of corals as it relates to led. I 100% know that under t5 lamps, all corals will grow. No doubt. It's a safety net. I will eventually delve into led, placement, par, yada, yada... For the moment, t5 take me where I need to be, simple, yet quite effective ;)
I'm in the same boat with T5 and my acros
 
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Your acros are looking good for having dinos

Thank you!
I am letting things work themselves out, lol. I don't want to interfere with the natural progression, in time, it shall pass. I am feeding normal, lighting normal, running UV, light bacteria dosing with AF Bio S, and passive carbon. Skimmer running very dry. I do not want to limit corals access to nutrients, my hopes are they ultimately out-compete algaes for nutrients. So far, the corals are saturated with color, no starving here :)
 
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Next week I will be making a lighting change. I will be going only LED, and have rested on the Reefbreeders Photon 32 V2 pro. The main reasons are the following:
1. Temperature- Living in FL, and approaching warmer weather, with my AC on 72 degrees, the t5's put heat into the room, and my temp is peaking at nearly 80 degrees, with a fan blowing over the reef.
2. Aesthetics- I will suspend this single unit over the tank with suspension kit, this will allow for better spread, ease of maintenance, and look clean.
3. Many sps keepers, notable ones, use these lights, and have awesome results.
4. Wires- Too many wires, 2 for T5's, 2 for Led rear, and 1 for Led front. This unit, and only this unit will be used, so only 1 plug in, vs. 5.

I have wanted to go all LED, but like many, cost becomes an issue. The price point works for my budget, and instead of buying used g4 pros, for example, the cost is still around the same, if not more, after mounts, and controller. My new SBREEF ked un8t will go on the 20 gallon softie tank, so at least it will continue to serve it's purpose. I will shelve the t5 unit, which is going to be tough, but it makes sense to transition. Thanks for following along!
Cheers
 
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So I have been doing lots of research regarding the proper height, settings, and whether or not the photon will be enough lighting...hmmm
BRS did a good job in testing, and I feel that for me to adequately cover the tank, I will continue to use the SBREEF Rolan V22 in conjunction with the photon. Photon will be hung and placed at 12" above water line. It will be the main light, positioned over the Bommie. Behind it, I will also suspend, @ 12" above water line, keeping the units nearly touching, as if it was one big panel. Photon @ 230 watts, and the Rolan @ 180 watts, this will be all the power I need with blanket coverage, and allow me to run them at a much lower %.
Today I suspended the Rolan on the same cable system as the t5 lamp, and the same cable system the photon will go on, obviously it was taken down to do so. Frankly, at 12" and 100% blue and 20% white, it actually lights up the Bommie. Keep in mind, the Bommie is only around 28" long, and roughly 18" deep. The SBREEF Rolan V22 is 22" long by 6" wide, and again, it appears that all corals are being lit. That said, with it placed behind the photon, it will fill in gaps, while throwing light to the rear of the tank, should I decide for stuffing more sps in those spots.
The plan always was to keep acros on the botom, end to end, back to front, fingers crossed that this system will work out.
I will summarize by saying aesthetics are quite important, the mount system for both lights, while included, looks clunky, thankfully they came with cable suspension kits too. It took a bit of diy with the Rolan, the photon should be a breeze, I also had some old parts and cable systems hanging around to accomplish the task at hand.
Cheers :)
 
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So you are keeping measurable nutrients together throughout the dino phase, right?
Scott,
Yes, I am resting for weeks on 2.5-5ppm for N03, and P04 at 0.06-0.09
From a large cuc addition, daily phosphorus dosing, alternating between nitrifying bacteria and denitrifying bacteria, I must say that I am getting close to being done, and uv 24-7. I recently dosed some chaeto grow into the system, and saw my most significant change thus far. It is mainly iron, but also other trace, stuff that chaeto normally exports. My rocks are getting super clean, and now seeing hair algae sprouts appearing, but also a boom in corraline algae. This tells me the system is nearly adapted to running bb, which has taken time.
2 liters of siporax and rubble are in the sump, so I feel the system getting dialed in, with consistency in nutrients. Corals are looking colorful and growing, despite any noise. Dinos are only hanging on tips of thin branch corals, and miscellaneous spots, but again, its being out-competed, I belive by corraline and corals themselves.
 
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So this just happened :)
Decided to run just Photon 32 fixture, and it appears more than capable. My starting peaks, are 9am to 6pm.
2 hour dawn ramp(7am) and 2 hour dusk ramp(8pm). Any input is greatly appreciated :)
Peaks:
Red- 10%
Green- 25%
White- 25%
Royal Blue- 90%
Other Blue- 90%
Violet- 90%

Edit: Fixture suspended 11" above water line.

20220324_164800.jpg
 
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