Plumbing question

[Willhersh34]

Slip x slip bulkhead…

do I need to glue a piece of pvc into the bulkhead for the slip barb for flex tubing?
I was going to use a 4” piece of pvc, then add an elbow joint, another 4” piece, then barb.

also, I’m using one varios 8 for now for a return.

1.25” output, going to T that into two return lines of .75”… I have another pump on order but not sure if that’s overkill or not. Not using the return from sump for much flow addition, rock scape and water pumps will be relied on for that. Just want about 1800-2200 gph from sump to DT

You would want to glue a piece of PVC into the bulkhead, yes. Without picturing how the plumbing is going to work clearly (that's just my head, Lol) you would go bulkhead - pvc - elbow - pvc - barb fitting, all slip, all glued.

The pump capacity really depends on what you're driving off of it. I personally like to turn my tank volume over 4ish times an hour but then size the pump to drive multiple things - return to tank, reactors, etc. - so that I can get away with one pump. That assumes of course that you can control flow either with DC or valves. That requires more plumbing but is one less piece of gear to deal with. There are varying opinions on this point; some people like to turn the volume over more, some less, less meaning more contact time with media. Again, personal experience, my main tank is a 40 breeder. Pump runs a media reactor and is DC and I match the flow rate of my overflow, which is 300GPH (theoretical). So I dial the pump back to about 45% and my overflow gets driven correctly. The big thing with the pump is to match what your overflow is rated for in GPH then adjust from there to get turnover and avoid noise.

Hope that helps (and if I reply something that seems obvious or child-like don't take it personally, just trying to be as clear as possible.)

 

[Seek&Reef]

1. The biggest advice I can give is to take your time on plumbing and thoroughly analyze what will be added to this system in the future.
2. The second is unions. I can take my plumbing almost completely out in my sump area.
3. Dry fit, then glue.
4. Leak test everything. Fill up the return pump section with water, then add a bucket to the tank and have loc lines aimed in the bucket. run the pump till almost pulling air. Added bonus is this will let you calculate the true gph of flow. For drain lines, you can dry fit a valve, cap, check valve on the pipe that ends in the sump. then pour enough water to fill that pvc line. Doing it all this way keeps you from having to fill a tank up to test it. Finding a leak with just pipe filled with water is better than a system filled with water...
5. check valves on anything that can siphon. Example return pump line if shut off unexpectedly. Could be others, don't know your exact setup.

Will you be adding a UV, etc down the line? Plumbing a dry tank is way easier than a tank full of water and livestock. Running to a store for a fitting is a lot less stressful this way and gives you time to do it right instead of just what will work for the time being if that makes sense. Trust me been there done that. Just take your time and when in doubt research or ask.

 

[PhilMStudy]

Thank both of you!

I don’t plan on running anything other than water circulation from and to sump with this setup. Not sure on skimmer and if I do I have ample room in sump to do that comfortably.

on valves from drain lines… does it matter where I place those? I won’t be able to get to back of tank and was going to place all valves under stand where it would be easier. Is that an issue? 3 for overflow, 2 for returns. Color coded and labeled bc I need do lol

 

[Seek&Reef]

I would say wherever is easiest to access IMO. Also, another thing to consider as you plumb this is your head pressure on that pump. I am a visual kind of guy. I am completely new to reefing and currently setting up my own tank's plumbing as well. I do however have experience in PVC as I've repaired and installed additions to all of my sprinkler systems. So take my advice with limited reef experience in mind lol. But Pentair has a head calculator: Calculator. Compare that to your pump's flow chart.

Just take your time.. And research research research. Doing things twice sucks, es[ecially when money is involved. I bought a used set up with fish and all and decided a few months in I wanted it done my way, so I sold all of my fish and am still currently in the setup phase. With no fish, I am able to take my time and do things right. I plan on adding a UV to my system as money permits so I have my UV picked out and made sure my gph is on point for it. Also, I have plenty of room to add it without installing a ton of 90s creating more head pressure which would in turn lower my gph. Only telling you this as an example of planning ahead. This hobby is expensive enough without having to upgrade or replace things because they no longer work for your situation.

 

[Willhersh34]

Thank both of you!

I don’t plan on running anything other than water circulation from and to sump with this setup. Not sure on skimmer and if I do I have ample room in sump to do that comfortably.

on valves from drain lines… does it matter where I place those? I won’t be able to get to back of tank and was going to place all valves under stand where it would be easier. Is that an issue? 3 for overflow, 2 for returns. Color coded and labeled bc I need do lol

Personally..........I prefer valves, and most plumbing really, under the stand. Unions in the back, no big deal but even though my tanks are against the wail I want one of those minimalist, as little as possible seen on the tank itself. I don't even like seeing the circulation pumps. Of course I'm running those hideous HOB overflows so yeah, there's that. But from a function standpoint, it's not going to matter. For ease of access I'd say under the stand is best.

Personally, I don't even do valves on my drains. Since I try to match the pump to the drain flow rate as close as possible I want maximum flow hitting the sump. Anything after that I try to control flow with either valves on the return or the pump itself. The exception would be if you're going to run your drain to multiple locations - i.e. both your sump and, say, a separate refugium. At that point, I would tee off one of the main drain lines to go to both then use a valve to control the flow to the fuge. In this case it sounds like you're just going to the sump so the only other reason to valve the drain would be if your pump can't keep up. Again, personal experience, I've never had the need to slow the drain flow down. If you absolutely need to, I would still recommend under the tank for ease of access and to keep out of sight. Just my take on it.

 

[Seek&Reef]

Look into Herbie Overflow and if you do use valves on drains, buy the nice(expensive) valves that wont lock up from not being used for months. Gate Valve. These will also allow for finer tuning for the Herbie method.

 

[PhilMStudy]

Leak tested and completed!
Thank you all for your help

 

[PhilMStudy]

Time for my fish, coral and other inverts to come back home tomorrow

 

[Seek&Reef]

Hell ya, looks good. Great thing about flex is minimal head loss. What’s your output on the tank side? Locline?

 

[Willhersh34]

Good work, good job and I'd be curious to know about the output flow as well.

 

[Seek&Reef]

One thing I would do if your tank is going to be that far off the wall anyways is remove the elbows from your return connecting your braided tubing to the tank. If you can either create more flow if desired or even lower the strain on the pump then do it any chance you get. Just use a standard slip x slip coupling to connect them. Eliminate the extra head loss then mount the pipe to the wall to take the weight of the water off the bulkhead. Pipe Mounting Bracket

 

[PhilMStudy]

Honestly haven’t run the flow beyond 3rd setting/level of varios 8 pump. Seems to have decent flow right now but still testing everything out… pretty sure it is going to out run overflow with ease

 

[PhilMStudy]

Locline is on the way, last thing on list and I’m pretty picky… plus I have two 4K gyre, 3 Nero 5 and if I need, 2 older mp40…

Kind of went on a buying spree lately lol

 

[Seek&Reef]

Hahaha that's a good bit of flow there. I'm looking at the 4K's as well.