Plumbing questions, pipe sizes, etc

jmatt

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Hi all, I'm getting ready to start plumbing this 110 gal tank into a sizable 48"x17" Bashsea Pro sump with a ReefMat 1200 and a 44" Pentair UV unit (40w). I've read a ton of threads and seen many YT videos but if you'll indulge me, I'd like to ask directly.

The tank has an external overflow with 2.5" drilled holes for a Herbie drain. The return holes are 1.5" (I have to check).

So. What size drain pipes and returns are standard? Believe it or not, nobody ever seems to talk about this in their YT videos. The Reefmat has a flexible pipe that feeds it off the drain so eventually whatever pipe size I choose will have to match the input of the Mat.

What size bulkheads? There doesn't seem to be anything designed specifically for 2.5". I plan on unthreaded slip fittings. Unions and valves as appropriate.

The drains... there's only input on the mat so I guess the primary goes there and the emergency goes somewhere else in the sump, yes? I don't "T" join them together into the Mat, right?

I will have two COR-20 return pumps... I guess one goes directly back to the tank and the other services the manifold and UV before returning to the tank, yes? Or should the UV have it's own pump? Eventually, everything will be run off an A3 Apex controller.

I appreciate your assistance, this is my first time plumbing a tank.
 

HankstankXXL750

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You will have to start with the bulk heads getting the proper size for your holes. They can come threaded or slip. I would get threaded and then use a male threaded pvc fitting that you can then glue pipe to. This way if you need to change things down the road you can cut the pvc, unscrew the fitting and start fresh. Read the directions for the roller Matt. It comes with fittings that fit a larger pipe that comes on the Red Sea larger reefers and a smaller fitting. Both have the same diameter output so you just have to decide which you want to match.
The emergency overflow should be plumbed into the sump and not connected to the roller Matt. You can discharge it on the same side of the roller Matt that your input water comes into. For the most part it shouldn’t ever have water running through it except if your main line plugs.

I would run a separate pump for your uv drawing from somewhere in the sump and discharging right before your return pump chamber. You want to be able to control the flow on the UV as different flows kill different things. And if flow is too high it will be less effective for anything.
 
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jmatt

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Many thanks for the reply.

As for the bulkheads, yes I agree the two halves should screw together. But I want to make the output a glued slip fitting since I've read that threads are less water-tight.

I suppose the Reefmat hose determines what size PVC pipe I should use coming out of the drain, I'll have to match it to that.

As for the UV, since the Apex can dial down the flow on one of the pumps (it can set their gph separately, yes?) I was thinking the secondary return pump could service the UV. But yes, one way or another the UV needs to be dialed in so it can function properly.
 

theMeat

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For 110 gal tank two 2.5 pipes, and two 1.5 pipe is way big. How are you measuring pipe?
 

HankstankXXL750

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Many thanks for the reply.

As for the bulkheads, yes I agree the two halves should screw together. But I want to make the output a glued slip fitting since I've read that threads are less water-tight.

I suppose the Reefmat hose determines what size PVC pipe I should use coming out of the drain, I'll have to match it to that.

As for the UV, since the Apex can dial down the flow on one of the pumps (it can set their gph separately, yes?) I was thinking the secondary return pump could service the UV. But yes, one way or another the UV needs to be dialed in so it can function properly.
I’m not sure Alex can reduce the flow on a pump. I didn’t look, maybe you are planning apex pumps which they may be able to control. The question you would want to answer is wether reducing the flow through the UV in line on the return, Would you still have the desired turn over volume on your tank?

threaded connections with 1-2 wraps of thread tape should be water tight. I have had to reconfigure my plumbing before and had to purchase new bulk heads to make the changes. But that is also an option. Gluing is probably more watertight when done properly.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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For 110 gal tank two 2.5 pipes, and two 1.5 pipe is way big. How are you measuring pipe?
Those aren't the pipe sizes, they're the hole sizes.
1.5" is for a schedule 40, 3/4 inch bulkhead
2.5" is for a schedule 40, 1.5" bulkhead.
 
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EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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What size bulkheads? There doesn't seem to be anything designed specifically for 2.5". I plan on unthreaded slip fittings. Unions and valves as appropriate.
1.5" is for a schedule 40, 3/4 inch bulkhead
2.5" is for a schedule 40, 1.5" bulkhead

From lifegardaquatics.com... you'll need to zoom in, but this is a size chart.
 

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jmatt

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For 110 gal tank two 2.5 pipes, and two 1.5 pipe is way big. How are you measuring pipe?
Well, those are just the drilled holes. I imagine after the bulkheads are installed the drains will be 1.5" (since that's the size input on the Reefmat and the returns will be 1". But this is why I'm asking, I've never done this before.
 

theMeat

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Well, those are just the drilled holes. I imagine after the bulkheads are installed the drains will be 1.5" (since that's the size input on the Reefmat and the returns will be 1". But this is why I'm asking, I've never done this before.
Looks like you got a spot on answer from WVned. I agree with his advice. This place is awesome
 

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For my 155 Gal Bowfront I used 1” PVC for main siphon drain and emergency over flow and 2- 3/4” PVC for my return pump lines with corresponding 1” and 3/4” bulkheads respectively
 

theMeat

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To op
Think it’s a good idea to have a separate pump for uv so you know how much gph. Unless you plan on having flow meter
 

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