Problems with cycle

[ibok97]

So I need some advice here I'm really stressing over this and so close to giving up so I started my cycle going on now almost at nine weeks about three weeks ago everything dropped ammonia was zero nitrite was zero and my nitrate was 10 now 3 weeks on everything has shot up I can't get it down I have no livestock at the moment of course I originally cycled my tank with Dr Tim's ammonia and Fritz Zyme 9 now am I doing something wrong because this is really stressing me out to a point where I want to give up I'm planning on doing at least a 50% water change next week will that help or am I just doing something wrong

 

[Fish Fan]

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

#WelcometoR2R

I'm sorry you're having some difficulty. I think this is likely testing error, what are you using for test kits, and please post the results of the tests.

With no livestock the ammonia should not have "shot up" unless you dosed more ammonia or something else organic is dead and decaying in your tank, like if you added fish food, for example.

Stay relaxed, we'll get you on the right track with your tank

 

[ibok97]

So I haven't got any pictures at the moment of the tests but I feel like a lot of people could be right with what I've been asking in other groups on Facebook and that I'm using API saltwater test I know there is better test out there but at the time I didn't know that could this be an issue

 

[Freenow54]

So I need some advice here I'm really stressing over this and so close to giving up so I started my cycle going on now almost at nine weeks about three weeks ago everything dropped ammonia was zero nitrite was zero and my nitrate was 10 now 3 weeks on everything has shot up I can't get it down I have no livestock at the moment of course I originally cycled my tank with Dr Tim's ammonia and Fritz Zyme 9 now am I doing something wrong because this is really stressing me out to a point where I want to give up I'm planning on doing at least a 50% water change next week will that help or am I just doing something wrong

Water change is a waste of time. The percentage of ammonia and nitrites nitrates you remove is minimal. It was pointed out to me a while back. If you do the actual math it will prove to be true ie %. Are your lights On ? What did you do three weeks ago ? You did something . I don't know what Fritz Zyme 9 is when did you add that ? I just read about it it is obviously very aggressive . Obviously you were in a hurry. Better learn how to curb that or you will be dosing garbage all the time not knowing what you are doing. You say you are doing something wrong . What have you done recently and why?

 

[ibok97]

I used Fritz Zyme 9 bacteria at the start of my cycle I've not done anything different I've had a huge algae growth and it's still growing but the issue is my levels are not coming down after nearly 10 weeks I've not done anything different

 

[Freenow54]

So your lights are on then. Yes ?

 

[Fish Fan]

I used Fritz Zyme 9 bacteria at the start of my cycle I've not done anything different I've had a huge algae growth and it's still growing but the issue is my levels are not coming down after nearly 10 weeks I've not done anything different

It’s literally not possible for a tank to take 10 weeks to cycle

What are you using for test kits, and what are the numbers you’re seeing?

 

[ibok97]

So your lights are on then. Yes ?

The last 5 weeks I've had my lights off could that be an issue

 

[ibok97]

It’s literally not possible for a tank to take 10 weeks to cycle

What are you using for test kits, and what are the numbers you’re seeing?

Here is a test I just did

 

[exnisstech]

I do things different than many but I would just stop testing ammonia. I don't even own an ammonia or nitrite test kit. I see nitrates I slowly move forward.

 

[ScottJ]

Here is a test I just did

If you have algae growing, that is actually not a bad thing. It means your tank is supporting life! I agree that I wouldn't even test ammonia (I never have either). Maybe post a picture of the tank in white light. That can always help folks help you

 

[ibok97]

This was taken a few days ago

 

[Sheksare]

Last time I had nitrites this high I got stuck in stall. Been there like for at least 3weeks not knowing whats happening and why my test are high. Try a small water change to get nitrites to max 2ppm. Those bacteria struggle hard to deal with high ppm. Oh yeah, if you are in fishless cycle lower salinity and higher temp will help you a lot through the cycle just dont forget to get them in parameters before you put any livestock in after you are done with cycle.

By the look you have CUC or am I wrong? Think I see a snail on the rock. Is it possible something died and spiked your parameters? And you will need more rock for bacteria if you dont have sump.

 

[ibok97]

No there's no livestock in there at all

 

[MasterClassReefs]

Water temp 78°F-80°F, lower salinity 1.020, dark would have given you a cleaner start. No point for lights if theres nothing to use them, or you farm algae. Bring up specific gravity slowly after cycled so you dont kill the bacteria or cause any sudden shifts in water chemistry. The sand bed will hold more bacteria than any rock will. The more surface area the better. When you do begin running lights start low and slowly increase intensity as the need presents itself. Coralline algae can begin within 10 weeks under pretty low light if water parameters are stable and consistent. To me it seems you went very heavy on ammonia dosing to start the cycle, likely far more than recommended to end up with nitrate at 80+.

 

[Fish Fan]

Here is a test I just did

Thank you for posting those test results, it's help us better advise you

Something is definitely off here, but before we all overreact, let's consider a few things first:

Let's start with this statement: There is no way your tank should not be cycled after running for 9 weeks, if you added the proper amount of ammonia and bacteria initially. A brand new tank with totally sterile rock and sand will cycle in 3 to 4 weeks tops. It's a biological process, and quite predictable.

What I see in your test results is the ammonia at about 0.50 ppm, with elevated nitrite, and low nitrate (allow me to explain). This makes me think that the tank was not set up to cycle with the correct amount of bacteria and ammonia going back those 9 weeks ago. Rather, either ammonia must have been added more recently, or bacteria would have been added more recently. I believe this is what got your cycle going, and resulted in the nitrite you are seeing now. I don't think there's any other explanation given the time line you're mentioned.

Right now, you have bacteria converting ammonia to nitrite, which is great. However, nitrite present in the water will cause an artificially high result for nitrate. For this reason, you cannot accurately test your nitrate concentration when you have nitrite present. At this point, there's no reason to think you're nitrate is high.

Here's what I would suggest going forward: Let this ride. I don't know what happened 9 weeks ago, but right now your tank is maybe a few days to a week or so from completing its cycle. Don't do water changes, let the ammonia fall to 0.25 ppm or less on your ATI test kit, and proceed to either slowly stock your tank with some hardy fish, or take some time to address the algae you're seeing. But once that ammonia drops to 0.25 ppm or less, you're cycled

A couple more thoughts that I hope will help:

It's not a bad idea to turn your lights off during this period to keep that algae down. Turn them on once you add (desirable) photosynthetic organisms.

At least for now, stop testing pH. pH will fluctuate in a cycling tank, and many long-term successful reefers don't test pH at all. Unless you are growing corals professionally or competitively, you can skip pH testing.

Likewise, you can safely ditch the nitrite test altogether. Nitrite is totally non-toxic in marine aquaria, unlike in freshwater where it's toxic like ammonia. In saltwater systems there's no reason to test for or be concerned with nitrite at all. The only caveat is that, again, when nitrite is present it will cause your nitrate to look artificially high. For this reason I would not test or take action for nitrate until the nitrite has zeroed out. <<That would be the only, minor reason to test for nitrite for a marine tank, in my humble opinion

I hope this helps and please keep us posted on your progress!

 

[Freenow54]

No the lights cause growth amongst other things

 

[ibok97]

Honestly thanks so much I was under the assumption that nitrite had to be zero so I'm basically stressed out for no reason what hardy fish would be ok to start with

 

[Freenow54]

Thank you for posting those test results, it's help us better advise you

Something is definitely off here, but before we all overreact, let's consider a few things first:

Let's start with this statement: There is no way your tank should not be cycled after running for 9 weeks, if you added the proper amount of ammonia and bacteria initially. A brand new tank with totally sterile rock and sand will cycle in 3 to 4 weeks tops. It's a biological process, and quite predictable.

What I see in your test results is the ammonia at about 0.50 ppm, with elevated nitrite, and low nitrate (allow me to explain). This makes me think that the tank was not set up to cycle with the correct amount of bacteria and ammonia going back those 9 weeks ago. Rather, either ammonia must have been added more recently, or bacteria would have been added more recently. I believe this is what got your cycle going, and resulted in the nitrite you are seeing now. I don't think there's any other explanation given the time line you're mentioned.

Right now, you have bacteria converting ammonia to nitrite, which is great. However, nitrite present in the water will cause an artificially high result for nitrate. For this reason, you cannot accurately test your nitrate concentration when you have nitrite present. At this point, there's no reason to think you're nitrate is high.

Here's what I would suggest going forward: Let this ride. I don't know what happened 9 weeks ago, but right now your tank is maybe a few days to a week or so from completing its cycle. Don't do water changes, let the ammonia fall to 0.25 ppm or less on your ATI test kit, and proceed to either slowly stock your tank with some hardy fish, or take some time to address the algae you're seeing. But once that ammonia drops to 0.25 ppm or less, you're cycled

A couple more thoughts that I hope will help:

It's not a bad idea to turn your lights off during this period to keep that algae down. Turn them on once you add (desirable) photosynthetic organisms.

At least for now, stop testing pH. pH will fluctuate in a cycling tank, and many long-term successful reefers don't test pH at all. Unless you are growing corals professionally or competitively, you can skip pH testing.

Likewise, you can safely ditch the nitrite test altogether. Nitrite is totally non-toxic in marine aquaria, unlike in freshwater where it's toxic like ammonia. In saltwater systems there's no reason to test for or be concerned with nitrite at all. The only caveat is that, again, when nitrite is present it will cause your nitrate to look artificially high. For this reason I would not test or take action for nitrate until the nitrite has zeroed out. <<That would be the only, minor reason to test for nitrite for a marine tank, in my humble opinion

I hope this helps and please keep us posted on your progress!

I would do one thing extra but its better to stick to one plan. This advice is pretty solid to my experiance with my own , and the reasoning as to how you got to this point is as well. Only you can answer that , its like I said looks like you rushed things , Fish Fan thinks the same , so time and patience is the key. Its time to observe and hands off for sure. I used a fishless cycle , and added pure ammonia to keep levels below 4 ppm . To the article I followed testing all three informs you of progress made . Ammonia testing is key . You are at max right now. Like I said the only thing different I would do is to use a marineland water clarifier , But maybe better to wait until after . It will get rid of any algae free floating . It is only a fine micron filter. Again the article I followed you kept the ammonia around 3ppm. it will soon be transformed overnight. This is a ways off yet. The final test is to bring it up to 5ppm then it should including the Nitrite be zero 24 hours later. Regardless of the opinion about nitrite being harmless of which I have no opinion other than what others think and that I like to see it zero. Another bacteria does that. As to sand being the most important again I point to people who have bare bottom tanks , To me that is conjecture , how would you prove that ? Your job then is to deal with the Nitrates . Be prepaired and dont panic when you experiance the " uglies " as people cal it . It dissapears . If you have the urge to start dosing chemicals look in the mirror and just say NO. You will be fine. If you want to read the article I will post it. So PURE ammonia not scented or anything , No lights

 

[Freenow54]

Like I said that to me is one persons opinion only . Maybe Fish Fan will share his / Their Source ? as to why that is their opinion ?