Puffer with BAD ich at LFS

[Mariette]

I keep several puffers and hyposalintiy is preferred for treatment. Knowing the type of puffer will help a lot, but puffers in a non established qt is a pain. They are very messy and create a lot of waste. Even little ones make a mess. A cycled hyposalinty QT is a must or you are just adding to the ich with ammonia burn, unless you can do a few water changes a day or use a ton of prime.

I can do hypo. Treatment options are secondary. First up: to rescue or not to rescue.

Puffer will be going into the 55g that’s been running fallow. It’s been up about 2 years. OR the 20g that’s also established. I have tons of prime. And I’m on mat leave so I’m home all day and can do as many water changes as are needed. Seems like everything’s pointing to rescue the fish. I’m home all day, I’ve got a 110g + a 55g he can live in. I’ve got an established qt...

 

[Mariette]

If you do it make sure you have plenty of biospira on hand also.

I don’t have that. What’s that for? Cycling?

 

[Mariette]

Chloroquine phosphate (cp) is safe for puffers and an effective treatment for ich, velvet, brook, and uronema. And yes, copper can be dangerous to use on them

I have cp

 

[Mjrenz]

I don’t have that. What’s that for? Cycling?

Yes, it's a live bacteria and is great for controlling ammonia in an uncycled tank

 

[Mariette]

Yes, it's a live bacteria and is great for controlling ammonia in an uncycled tank

Puffer would go into 1 of 2 tanks: a cycled 20g qt or a cycled 55g.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

I can do hypo. Treatment options are secondary. First up: to rescue or not to rescue.

Puffer will be going into the 55g that’s been running fallow. It’s been up about 2 years. OR the 20g that’s also established. I have tons of prime. And I’m on mat leave so I’m home all day and can do as many water changes as are needed. Seems like everything’s pointing to rescue the fish. I’m home all day, I’ve got a 110g + a 55g he can live in. I’ve got an established qt...

I have rescued quite a few, but it is your call. If you have the time and determination, it may be worth it to you. You already have the meds if needed and a cycled tank taken down to hypo levels slowly will maintain the bio filter.

 

[Mjrenz]

Puffer would go into 1 of 2 tanks: a cycled 20g qt or a cycled 55g.

The 20 would be much easier with water changes and dosing imo

 

[Mariette]

I have rescued quite a few, but it is your call. If you have the time and determination, it may be worth it to you. You already have the meds if needed and a cycled tank taken down to hypo levels slowly will maintain the bio filter.

Hadn’t considered the time it would take to reach hypo. What if I was to drop it suddenly and add live bacteria?

 

[Mariette]

The 20 would be much easier with water changes and dosing imo

True

 

[Mjrenz]

Hadn’t considered the time it would take to reach hypo. What if I was to drop it suddenly and add live bacteria?

Since there aren't any pics and you said he is covered I would be concerned about him possibly having velvet, hypo won't help with that

 

[Mariette]

Since there aren't any pics and you said he is covered I would be concerned about him possibly having velvet, hypo won't help with that

I’ve had ich and Velvet. I know they’re hard to tell apart. I’m fairly confident it’s Ich. LFS agrees. Issue is that he’s for sure going to die if I leave him and MAY survive if I take him home ... ugh

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Hadn’t considered the time it would take to reach hypo. What if I was to drop it suddenly and add live bacteria?

Slowly is over a day or so. You don’t not want to shock everything. First thing would be to match the salinity of the Lfs, add puffer and bring it down. If the tank has pods, they will even live through it. Puffers are known for going from low salinity to high salinity all the time in nature. The issue is the fish you have is compromised, immunity wise. Combined with a 2 year old tank, hypo kills some things and we do not want that to cause a bacteria bloom or something like that. Hypo won’t kill the bacteria if done in one big jump, but may hinder it for a bit while it has to adjust. That wants to be avoided if using an established tank.

 

[Mjrenz]

I’ve had ich and Velvet. I know they’re hard to tell apart. I’m fairly confident it’s Ich. LFS agrees. Issue is that he’s for sure going to die if I leave him and MAY survive if I take him home ... ugh

I'm going to try my best not to sway you one way or the other but if you decide to get him you are in the best place to get the right advice

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Since there aren't any pics and you said he is covered I would be concerned about him possibly having velvet, hypo won't help with that

I missed the covered part and only caught the ich part.
I would suggest the 20 with CP to be safe. If it already cycled that is good also. You just really have to watch ammonia with a puffer. You also need to feed it only what it will eat. Watch it’s belly as it will get a little pudge. Once it has that, stop feeding. Stressed puffers, if eating, will gorge themselves. Well they will do that for a while until they know they are gonna get fed all the time lol.

 

[Mariette]

Slowly is over a day or so. You don’t not want to shock everything. First thing would be to match the salinity of the Lfs, add puffer and bring it down. If the tank has pods, they will even live through it. Puffers are known for going from low salinity to high salinity all the time in nature. The issue is the fish you have is compromised, immunity wise. Combined with a 2 year old tank, hypo kills some things and we do not want that to cause a bacteria bloom or something like that. Hypo won’t kill the bacteria if done in one big jump, but may hinder it for a bit while it has to adjust. That wants to be avoided if using an established tank.

I’m confused. Are you saying it’s best to put him in a non established tank?

 

[Mariette]

I missed the covered part and only caught the ich part.
I would suggest the 20 with CP to be safe. If it already cycled that is good also. You just really have to watch ammonia with a puffer. You also need to feed it only what it will eat. Watch it’s belly as it will get a little pudge. Once it has that, stop feeding. Stressed puffers, if eating, will gorge themselves. Well they will do that for a while until they know they are gonna get fed all the time lol.

Thank you. I’ve got an ammo is badge and ammonia testers. But just a HOB filter. I can test for ammonia daily and do water changes as needed.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

I’m confused. Are you saying it’s best to put him in a non established tank?

I was referring to lowering the salinity in your established tank over the course of a day. Got a little cluttered there I admit lol. Long day and small phone screen lol.

 

[Mariette]

I'm going to try my best not to sway you one way or the other but if you decide to get him you are in the best place to get the right advice

Thx and yeah, I wouldn’t consider it before I found this place

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Thank you. I’ve got an ammo is badge and ammonia testers. But just a HOB filter. I can test for ammonia daily and do water changes as needed.

HOB is fine. I am acclimating 2 spotted puffers to salt water that were in my brackish tank, as they are about 2 years old now. They are in a 20l with an aquaclear 50. It does fine, but I have rock in there also. No issues with HOB for the puffer if you get it.

 

[Mariette]

I’ve made a decision. I want that fish. I have started giving my husband the puppy dog eyes. He’s wavering. Tomorrow, I will prep the qt while he’s at work, match LFS salinity, and, all the while, bombard my poor husband with begging texts throughout the day. Assuming puffer is still alive, and husband caves, puffer will be in my care by tomorrow evening. Wish me luck and stay tuned