Pump water through RODI system without faucet

[jimmypencil]

I have burned through both my Di resin canisters after about 60 gallons of production from my BRS 6 stage 150gpd. Tds in to di is 5 and tds out is still 0. I’ve learned that the well water I’m using is likely high in CO2 so I will have to “degass” the water. I think building a degassing tower is just about out of my boundaries in this hobby so I think I will go with the method of filling up brute trash can with well water, use air stone to aerate that water, then use a pump to run the water from the trash can through my RODI system and Di resin. What kind of pump would I need for this? And what kind of pump should I use to aerate the water and for how long? Kind of lost here and wondering if anyone can lead me In the right direction with some equipment suggestions or maybe just poke some holes in my plan. Thanks!

 

[Jekyl]

I have burned through both my Di resin canisters after about 60 gallons of production from my BRS 6 stage 150gpd. Tds in to di is 5 and tds out is still 0. I’ve learned that the well water I’m using is likely high in CO2 so I will have to “degass” the water. I think building a degassing tower is just about out of my boundaries in this hobby so I think I will go with the method of filling up brute trash can with well water, use air stone to aerate that water, then use a pump to run the water from the trash can through my RODI system and Di resin. What kind of pump would I need for this? And what kind of pump should I use to aerate the water and for how long? Kind of lost here and wondering if anyone can lead me In the right direction with some equipment suggestions or maybe just poke some holes in my plan. Thanks!

There are plenty of submersible pumps out there with 3/4 fittings. Check out harbor freight.

 

[theMeat]

There are plenty of submersible pumps out there with 3/4 fittings. Check out harbor freight.

Can’t see that working ^
OP needs a booster pump, but it must be gravity fed from a tank with air stone in it. A good idea to put a cut off switch on the pump if the tank runs dry

 

[Saltyreef]

I have burned through both my Di resin canisters after about 60 gallons of production from my BRS 6 stage 150gpd. Tds in to di is 5 and tds out is still 0. I’ve learned that the well water I’m using is likely high in CO2 so I will have to “degass” the water. I think building a degassing tower is just about out of my boundaries in this hobby so I think I will go with the method of filling up brute trash can with well water, use air stone to aerate that water, then use a pump to run the water from the trash can through my RODI system and Di resin. What kind of pump would I need for this? And what kind of pump should I use to aerate the water and for how long? Kind of lost here and wondering if anyone can lead me In the right direction with some equipment suggestions or maybe just poke some holes in my plan. Thanks!

Its your lucky day because ive been down this road before. Its actually quite simple.

Step 1. Buy a brute trashcan the size of how much water you would like to make at one time.

Step 2. Use a 3 way bypass valve on your RODI system to be able to split the RO product water from the DI resins. Run tubing into the brute can from this port.

Step 3. Fill up said brute can with your RO water from your system by turning the 3 way valve and diverting the RO water from your RODI system into the can.

Step 4. (Have a beer or 3)

Step 5. Sink a mj style pump (mj1200 works the best) into the brute can and also a small airstone and let both run in the can for 24 hours.

Step 6. Procure these 3 pieces from lowes or home depot to connect your mj style pump to 1/4" tubing

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1-4-in-Push-to-Connect-x-1-2-in-Mip-dia-Male-Adapter-Push-Fitting/1000192601

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-2-IN-SCH40-COUPLING/5012478553

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-x-1-2-in-Mip-dia-Male-Adapter-Push-Fitting/1000192621

Use a long piece of 1/4" tubing to connect the pump in your bin to the 3 way valve port where you have the outlet from your membrane. Flip the valve position back to normal (cutting off the flow to the RO output to the bin)

Let it rip and enjoy your degassed water!!!!

 

[Jekyl]

Can’t see that working ^
OP needs a booster pump, but it must be gravity fed from a tank with air stone in it. A good idea to put a cut off switch on the pump if the tank runs dry

How so? He's degassing the water in a large can and needs something to pump it out... it's exactly what he needs.

 

[Saltyreef]

How so? He's degassing the water in a large can and needs something to pump it out... it's exactly what he needs.

This would sorta work but less ideal.

A harbor freight sump pump with a 3/4 hose thread would be too much flow through the resins and even then he would have to find a 3/4 hose thread to 1/2" reducer and the push to connect fitting i linked.
My mj1200 pump is actually overkill too. An mj900 works the best to match the flow output if my membrane (same 5g fill time as running the system straight through all canisters)

 

[Saltyreef]

Can’t see that working ^
OP needs a booster pump, but it must be gravity fed from a tank with air stone in it. A good idea to put a cut off switch on the pump if the tank runs dry

My can sits on the ground below my RODI. Gravity has nothing to do with this setup.

I have a float switch on my brute can so it does not overflow when filling.

But, If you are then filling 5g containers from your DI output you still would be in danger of flooding if you were only relying on one low water cutoff for the pump.

The pump would be safe, though the cut off switch is likely more than the $25 MJ pump

 

[Jekyl]

This would sorta work but less ideal.

A harbor freight sump pump with a 3/4 hose thread would be too much flow through the resins and even then he would have to find a 3/4 hose thread to 1/2" reducer and the push to connect fitting i linked.
My mj1200 pump is actually overkill too. An mj900 works the best to match the flow output if my membrane (same 5g fill time as running the system straight through all canisters)

Sump isn't what I had in mind. They have all sorts of pumps there with varying GPH. I use them for various jobs I have through my work.

 

[Saltyreef]

Sump isn't what I had in mind. They have all sorts of pumps there with varying GPH. I use them for various jobs I have through my work.

Those are also refered to as sump pumps.
Sorry for the confusion.

Plus the smallest one available from harbor freight is 1/8th hp which is still overkill on GPH. Not to mention $80.

We use them at work frequently too but this style pump is overkill for an RODI system. The resins are suited for ultra low flow. Same as what comes out of your membrane effluent for product water.

 

[jimmypencil]

Its your lucky day because ive been down this road before. Its actually quite simple.

Step 1. Buy a brute trashcan the size of how much water you would like to make at one time.

Step 2. Use a 3 way bypass valve on your RODI system to be able to split the RO product water from the DI resins. Run tubing into the brute can from this port.

Step 3. Fill up said brute can with your RO water from your system by turning the 3 way valve and diverting the RO water from your RODI system into the can.

Step 4. (Have a beer or 3)

Step 5. Sink a mj style pump (mj1200 works the best) into the brute can and also a small airstone and let both run in the can for 24 hours.

Step 6. Procure these 3 pieces from lowes or home depot to connect your mj style pump to 1/4" tubing

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1-4-in-Push-to-Connect-x-1-2-in-Mip-dia-Male-Adapter-Push-Fitting/1000192601

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-2-IN-SCH40-COUPLING/5012478553

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-x-1-2-in-Mip-dia-Male-Adapter-Push-Fitting/1000192621

Use a long piece of 1/4" tubing to connect the pump in your bin to the 3 way valve port where you have the outlet from your membrane. Flip the valve position back to normal (cutting off the flow to the RO output to the bin)

Let it rip and enjoy your degassed water!!!!

Wow it is my lucky day! You are awesome man I appreciate it.

 

[theMeat]

How so? He's degassing the water in a large can and needs something to pump it out... it's exactly what he needs.

Yeah, guess that could work. Op original question was how to pump water through rodi unit without faucet. A submersible pump won’t do that. Also thought it work better, faster to run water from house into tank to degas first. Then run it through the entire rodi unit. No worry about contamination after ro process, then pump it into di. One pump, one process, done. The rodi unit would also likely work better, faster, and last longer with booster pump set @70 psi, compared to the well pump likely set @50
My .02

 

[Saltyreef]

Yeah, guess that could work. Just thought it it work better, faster to run water from house into tank to degas first. Then run it through the entire rodi unit. One pump, one process, done

The pump to accomplish this would be a lot more expensive as it has to build maintain a constant pressure of 50+ PSI through the membrane.
Its much easier to let tap water flow through your prefilters and membrane via the connection already present, and use a small aquarium pump (which reefers should have a spare of) to pump the can of RO water through the resins.

Some people already make RO with their unit for drinking water for them and their pets so its an easy addition for degassing.

 

[Mike konesky]

I've been having to do this for years. I use a brute with ro and degas with a skimmer pump. Degassing only takes me about 45min with a 32gal brute. I then use a mag 9 necked down to 3/8 and go: pre-filter, cation, anion, anion, mixed, mixed. Output is around 100gpd. After the sediment it's 1/4" line to the resins. I'm getting about 1000 gallons per anion.

 

[theMeat]

I've been having to do this for years. I use a brute with ro and degas with a skimmer pump. Degassing only takes me about 45min with a 32gal brute. I then use a mag 9 necked down to 3/8 and go: pre-filter, cation, anion, anion, mixed, mixed. Output is around 100gpd. After the sediment it's 1/4" line to the resins. I'm getting about 1000 gallons per anion.

Mag 9 is enough for membrane?

 

[Saltyreef]

Mag 9 is enough for membrane?

He doesnt go through membrane with the mag 9

 

[Mike konesky]

No need to go through the membrane again. It's already been run through membranes.

 

[Mike konesky]

If you want to get fancy and waste more water you can run the water back through an entire rodi system via the mag9 and a booster.

 

[Jekyl]

The pump to accomplish this would be a lot more expensive as it has to build maintain a constant pressure of 50+ PSI through the membrane.
Its much easier to let tap water flow through your prefilters and membrane via the connection already present, and use a small aquarium pump (which reefers should have a spare of) to pump the can of RO water through the resins.

Some people already make RO with their unit for drinking water for them and their pets so its an easy addition for degassing.

This is right. I stand corrected on the matter.

 

[theMeat]

If you want to get fancy and waste more water you can run the water back through an entire rodi system via the mag9 and a booster.

I suggested degass first, then use booster pump to run through entire rodi unit all at once.

 

[Mike konesky]

It's not the easiest on the boosters, but they can do it. An 8800 is pretty much maxed out when pushing 2-75gpd membranes at 90psi from 0psi. Can only get 2-100gpd membranes to 80psi from 0psi. Plus the plumbing is annoying.