QT tank living remote

Tygerman30 · Feb 23, 2019

Hello all,

If you look at my posts I had one about a massive red slime algae outbreak in my tank. this came from me being a new and not listening to literally everyone and not having a QT and only a display. going forward I will not make that mistake again. So Im thinking of picking up a cheap 5 gallon kit with a heater and a HOB filter. and it would only be running for Quarantining and emptied and stored away until my next purchase. my display is only 32 gallons so id never pick up a coral or fish that is too large for that. here is my problems.

1. Im very busy so I do water 20% changes in my DT every 2 weeks with what Im reading id have to do water changes every day on a QT..ill be pulling the water from my display tank and that is a lot of effort and good water being used for for a QT where it will be tossed out after being used....do I absolutely have to change it every day???

2. If I do have to...Im very far from my LFS out so going a getting water in a bucket is all day thing. so its not practical so can I use tap water since Im using it only as a Temp tank? Also do I need to Quarantine corals and inverts or can I just dip the frags and freshwater dip the inverts?

3. I heard people QT a fish for 1 week the 4 weeks and even up to 3 months with one video I watched. how long is the minimum while staying effective at protecting my DT?

Side note: looking at ebay corals I know they are independent sellers but being that my LFS is so far and are primary in fresh they never have a large selection of beautiful or unique corals and what they do have is so expensive. Has anyone had horror stories buying online through Ebay?

Thanks as always guys

Philipgonzales3 · Feb 23, 2019

Tygerman30 said:
Hello all,

If you look at my posts I had one about a massive red slime algae outbreak in my tank. this came from me being a new and not listening to literally everyone and not having a QT and only a display. going forward I will not make that mistake again. So Im thinking of picking up a cheap 5 gallon kit with a heater and a HOB filter. and it would only be running for Quarantining and emptied and stored away until my next purchase. my display is only 32 gallons so id never pick up a coral or fish that is too large for that. here is my problems.

1. Im very busy so I do water 20% changes in my DT every 2 weeks with what Im reading id have to do water changes every day on a QT..ill be pulling the water from my display tank and that is a lot of effort and good water being used for for a QT where it will be tossed out after being used....do I absolutely have to change it every day???

2. If I do have to...Im very far from my LFS out so going a getting water in a bucket is all day thing. so its not practical so can I use tap water since Im using it only as a Temp tank? Also do I need to Quarantine corals and inverts or can I just dip the frags and freshwater dip the inverts?

3. I heard people QT a fish for 1 week the 4 weeks and even up to 3 months with one video I watched. how long is the minimum while staying effective at protecting my DT?

Side note: looking at ebay corals I know they are independent sellers but being that my LFS is so far and are primary in fresh they never have a large selection of beautiful or unique corals and what they do have is so expensive. Has anyone had horror stories buying online through Ebay?

Thanks as always guys

Red slime algea was caused by non QT? I'm fairly new so maybe explaining briefly how this happened will help other new people like me understand how this happens?

1. Why don't you seed your QT with cycled media from the DT. Assuming your DT does not have anything you wouldn't want in your QT. I would at the very least get an ammonia badge in the QT so you don't have to test every day.

2. RODI filter is the only practical solution in my opinion. No one should buy water or use other water. RODI filters are cheap enough and easy enough to install. No reason not to do it. Just my opinion, not trying to insult you, that's just how easy and important I think it is.

3. Depends on the QT procedure.

This is the procedure I would follow if I did QT. I'm currently on the no QT train. I think this is a highly personal decesion but we will see where I stand after 1 year, 5 years, etc. I'll keep you updated ;-).

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-current-qt-process.483371/

Sorcha2 · Feb 23, 2019

So I'm in sort of a similar situation except I finally broke down and bought an RODI unit. I got an Rodi Buddy, best $60 spent on my tank. You want to be using the same water on your main tank and your qt because part of it is just to reduce stress on fish and start getting them used to your parameters. The other point is to observe them and/or treat them for disease.

LBReefer · Feb 23, 2019

Tyger, there are several stickies on how to setup a QT tank and different protocols people follow, but here is a short and sweet synopsis.

1. You can’t dip inverts. The stuff you use as dip is specifically designed to kill them.
2. You can’t use tap water. Ever.
3. QT periods vary, but the safest bet is 76 days for fish, corals and inverts. That will protect you from all ich variants.
4. You will likely need to use copper and/or some combination of other meds to kill internal hitchhikers.
5. You don’t have to change the water every day, but you do need to have liverock or a foam filter seeded from a prospering tank. You can also supplement with bacteria in a bottle. You will need to monitor ammonia with an ammonia badge, as the copper will negate the use of traditional testing methods.
6. Everything you put into the qt needs to be bleachable and thoroughly cleaned between uses.
7. No, the copper in the tanks at your LFS doesn’t count as QT.

LBReefer · Feb 23, 2019

8. Id highly encourage you to get a quality RODI unit. You will save in the long run.

Sorcha2 · Feb 23, 2019

So I'm in sort of a similar situation except I finally broke down and bought an RODI unit. I got an Rodi Buddy, best $60 spent on my tank. You want to be using the same water on your main tank and your qt because part of it is just to reduce stress on fish and start getting them used to your parameters. The other point is to observe them and/or treat them for disease.

Tygerman30 · Feb 23, 2019

Philipgonzales3 said:
Red slime algea was caused by new QT? I'm fairly new so maybe explaining briefly how this happened will help other new people like me understand how this happens?

1. Why don't you seed your QT with cycled media from the DT. Assuming your DT does not have anything you wouldn't want in your QT. I would at the very least get an ammonia badge in the QT so you don't have to test every day.

2. RODI filter is the only practical solution in my opinion. No one should buy water or use other water. RODI filters are cheap enough and easy enough to install. No reason not to do it. Just my opinion, not trying to insult you, that's just how easy and important I think it is.

3. Depends on the QT procedure.

This is the procedure I would follow if I did QT. I'm currently on the no QT train. I think this is a highly personal decesion but we will see where I stand after 1 year, 5 years, etc. I'll keep you updated ;-).

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-current-qt-process.483371/

The red slime algae I think came off a emerald grab I got I went back to the store and looked at the tank where he was pulled out and it was in that tank. when I got him there was none but could be a fluke but that is my thought and that is why Im looking at a QT

Tygerman30 · Feb 23, 2019

LBReefer said:
8. Id highly encourage you to get a quality RODI unit. You will save in the long run.

Thank you for the info ill look into and WOW 76 days....might as well set up the QT as a mini DT.

Philipgonzales3 · Feb 23, 2019

Tygerman30 said:
The red slime algae I think came off a emerald grab I got I went back to the store and looked at the tank where he was pulled out and it was in that tank. when I got him there was none but could be a fluke but that is my thought and that is why Im looking at a QT

Hmm reading up on red slime algea/cyanobacteria it sounds like it is more an issue of "excess nutrients and poor water conditons". Maybe your main issues is not not having a QT.

https://m.liveaquaria.com/PIC/article.cfm?aid=2

I don't mean to persuade you against QT, just always trying to be helpful. Maybe I am focusing on the wrong thing but just throwing that out there.

Hopefully you got the Red slime algea issue solved already and hopefully I don't have to deal with it ever *knocks on wood*.

Tygerman30 · Feb 23, 2019

yeah i got it

Philipgonzales3 said:
Hmm reading up on red slime algea/cyanobacteria it sounds like it is more an issue of "excess nutrients and poor water conditons". Maybe your main issues is not not having a QT.

https://m.liveaquaria.com/PIC/article.cfm?aid=2

I don't mean to persuade you against QT, just always trying to be helpful. Maybe I am focusing on the wrong thing but just throwing that out there.

Hopefully you got the Red slime algae issue solved already and hopefully I don't have to deal with it ever *knocks on wood*.

under control now so all is well.