Quarantine Experience with Copperband Butterfly Fish

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

I like the molly method since the black contrast makes it so easy to see ich when it first breaks. I’m not sure that I agree with the ideas that mollies will get ich first since they’ve not been exposed before, they get FW ich fairly easily, but Cryptocaryon is a different parasite.
If the CBB were mine, I’d leave it in the QT for two more weeks, too many times I’ve seen folks move them too soon and they get ich.....

Jay

 

[EakTheFreak]

I like the molly method since the black contrast makes it so easy to see ich when it first breaks. I’m not sure that I agree with the ideas that mollies will get ich first since they’ve not been exposed before, they get FW ich fairly easily, but Cryptocaryon is a different parasite.
If the CBB were mine, I’d leave it in the QT for two more weeks, too many times I’ve seen folks move them too soon and they get ich.....

Jay

Great advice, I’m not opposed to keeping it in QT longer. How long would it take the black Molly’s to show saltwater ich? @Jay Hemdal

 

[mattzang]

my main complaint about black mollies in QT is they seem to die via pump/powerhead way too easy. and when they're alive they seem to love to hang out right next to powerheads/pumps :rolleyes:

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Great advice, I’m not opposed to keeping it in QT longer. How long would it take the black Molly’s to show saltwater ich? @Jay Hemdal

I’m not sure of the time frame, thus my conservative advice(grin).

Jay

 

[ReefHog]

As with all my fish now, I treat with chloroquine phosphate for 10-14 days (depending on the sensitivity of the fish) then into an observation tank with black mollies for 30 days. In the observation tank I treat with prazipro then fatten them up. Out of over a dozen fish, I've had one fail where a molly showed velvet within days and died. I attribute the fail to an error on my part. Either I forgot to pre-treat make up water, cross contamination or something. 14 days is probably sufficent but I'd play it safe and go for 30 days as long as your observation tank is not stressing him out.

 

[EakTheFreak]

As with all my fish now, I treat with chloroquine phosphate for 10-14 days (depending on the sensitivity of the fish) then into an observation tank with black mollies for 30 days. In the observation tank I treat with prazipro then fatten them up. Out of over a dozen fish, I've had one fail where a molly showed velvet within days and died. I attribute the fail to an error on my part. Either I forgot to pre-treat make up water, cross contamination or something. 14 days is probably sufficent but I'd play it safe and go for 30 days as long as your observation tank is not stressing him out.

Great advice, I’ve had the CBB in QT and he was treated with 2 doses of Prazipro plus food soaked GC many weeks back. I’ve only had the black Molly’s in for 6 days. Are you saying to wait another 24 days of disease free activity before adding the CBB to DT then? @ReefHog

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

As with all my fish now, I treat with chloroquine phosphate for 10-14 days (depending on the sensitivity of the fish) then into an observation tank with black mollies for 30 days. In the observation tank I treat with prazipro then fatten them up. Out of over a dozen fish, I've had one fail where a molly showed velvet within days and died. I attribute the fail to an error on my part. Either I forgot to pre-treat make up water, cross contamination or something. 14 days is probably sufficent but I'd play it safe and go for 30 days as long as your observation tank is not stressing him out.

Are you currently able to source chloroquine? Bulk material for public aquariums has been taken off the market after that Covid debacle. There was a guy selling it on Ebay, but he jacked his price up and Ebay pulled his ads.

Jay

 

[ReefHog]

Are you currently able to source chloroquine? Bulk material for public aquariums has been taken off the market after that Covid debacle. There was a guy selling it on Ebay, but he jacked his price up and Ebay pulled his ads.

Jay

Hey Jay,

Fortunately I purchased 200 grams from N.F.P. in late 2019 before the pandemic hit. The expiration date is January 2023. Being a hobbyist, all-be-it with four tanks, that should be plenty for the foreseeable future. Unfortunately, the Feds stopped CP from being sold and I believe other "fish meds" may become collateral damage as well. I plan on experimenting with H202 over the winter months as there are many successes being reported using it and I don't see CP becoming available again to hobbyists.

 

[ReefHog]

Great advice, I’ve had the CBB in QT and he was treated with 2 doses of Prazipro plus food soaked GC many weeks back. I’ve only had the black Molly’s in for 6 days. Are you saying to wait another 24 days of disease free activity before adding the CBB to DT then? @ReefHog

My concern would be that the prazi/GC treatment does not address Marine Ich or Velvet. If I had other fish in my DT, I wouldn't be comfortable with less than 30 days with the mollies because of this. That being said, CBBs are tricky fish as they tend not to do well in small barren quarantine tanks. I did my 30 day observation in a 29 gallon with seasoned sand and rocks covered in Aptasia.

 

[EakTheFreak]

My concern would be that the prazi/GC treatment does not address Marine Ich or Velvet. If I had other fish in my DT, I wouldn't be comfortable with less than 30 days with the mollies because of this. That being said, CBBs are tricky fish as they tend not to do well in small barren quarantine tanks. I did my 30 day observation in a 29 gallon with seasoned sand and rocks covered in Aptasia.

I have had the CBB in a 29 gallon with live rock covered in Aptasia & have been feeding him live clams sliced & diced on top of LRS for 3-4 feedings per day. He appears to be healthy and continues to eat more & more. I change 40% water every 3-4 days matching the salinity. I’m currently at Day #34 but only at Day #6 with black Molly’s.

I suppose I should continue to observe for longer since I’ve QT’d for this long. Was planning on adding him to the DT tomorrow but maybe that’s not the right play

 

[ReefHog]

I have had the CBB in a 29 gallon with live rock covered in Aptasia & have been feeding him live clams sliced & diced on top of LRS for 3-4 feedings per day. He appears to be healthy and continues to eat more & more. I change 40% water every 3-4 days matching the salinity. I’m currently at Day #34 but only at Day #6 with black Molly’s.

I suppose I should continue to observe for longer since I’ve QT’d for this long. Was planning on adding him to the DT tomorrow but maybe that’s not the right play

Where did you get the rock from? Since it has aptasia attached, I assume it came from an established tank. If you disregard the highly unlikely 72 day strain, the Tomont stage of Ich can stay attached to rock (or any hard surface) for up to 35 days before being released to the water column to find a fish host to feed from. And that's without fish. Since it's been 34 days, if there were ich or velvet in the tank the mollies would most likely hit on them in the next several days. Sometimes the quarantine can be worse on a fish than the disease or parasites and it's good to get them out asap. Your guy sounds like hes doing just fine, so I'd give him at least one more week with the mollies.

 

[EakTheFreak]

Where did you get the rock from? Since it has aptasia attached, I assume it came from an established tank. If you disregard the highly unlikely 72 day strain, the Tomont stage of Ich can stay attached to rock (or any hard surface) for up to 35 days before being released to the water column to find a fish host to feed from. And that's without fish. Since it's been 34 days, if there were ich or velvet in the tank the mollies would most likely hit on them in the next several days. Sometimes the quarantine can be worse on a fish than the disease or parasites and it's good to get them out asap. Your guy sounds like hes doing just fine, so I'd give him at least one more week with the mollies.

Appreciate it! Yes, the rock actually came from my Sump in my 131 gallon DT & the sump was loaded with aptasia especially on this rock.

He cleared all the aptasia out in less than a week so I added another rock a few weeks after.

Appreciate the advicez

 

[ReefHog]

Appreciate it! Yes, the rock actually came from my Sump in my 131 gallon DT & the sump was loaded with aptasia especially on this rock.

He cleared all the aptasia out in less than a week so I added another rock a few weeks after.

Appreciate the advicez

I would say if the mollies don't hit on anything after 14 days you should be in the clear.

 

[Quiverfull]

Tagging along on this thread. I have had mine (about 2.5 inches) in QT (20G long with HOB filter - sponge, carbon and filter floss, air stone and PVC pipe only) for about 3 weeks. No treatments up to this point. Seems to be doing well - fattening up nicely on fresh and frozen clams as well as black worms and live brine. Can not get it to eat anything frozen other than slices of frozen clam that I shave myself. Will not touch Mysis or other commercial frozen foods. Also tried some massttick with clam juice and small pieces but would not touch this either. I would like to just observe for disease and not treat unless I see any. My questions are:
1. Should I go ahead and prophylactically treat with copper and/or Prazipro or is it OK for me to just continue to keep in QT for 6 weeks without treating.
2. Any tricks to getting them onto frozen foods?
3. Don't have experience with mollies but would be willing to try. If I use mollies, do I still need to prophylactically treat or can I just observe for longer time?
4. If just observing, how long would you recommend QT? I am in no rush.

Thanks for the advice.

Greg

 

[EakTheFreak]

Tagging along on this thread. I have had mine (about 2.5 inches) in QT (20G long with HOB filter - sponge, carbon and filter floss, air stone and PVC pipe only) for about 3 weeks. No treatments up to this point. Seems to be doing well - fattening up nicely on fresh and frozen clams as well as black worms and live brine. Can not get it to eat anything frozen other than slices of frozen clam that I shave myself. Will not touch Mysis or other commercial frozen foods. Also tried some massttick with clam juice and small pieces but would not touch this either. I would like to just observe for disease and not treat unless I see any. My questions are:
1. Should I go ahead and prophylactically treat with copper and/or Prazipro or is it OK for me to just continue to keep in QT for 6 weeks without treating.
2. Any tricks to getting them onto frozen foods?
3. Don't have experience with mollies but would be willing to try. If I use mollies, do I still need to prophylactically treat or can I just observe for longer time?
4. If just observing, how long would you recommend QT? I am in no rush.

Thanks for the advice.

Greg

Hi Greg,
I’m not an expert by any means but my CBB is still doing wonderful in my DT and eats frozen mysis & LRS now. I will answer your questions with what I did to succeed.
1.) Prazipro is important because of eliminating flukes which is something you do not want in DT. I did not use COPPER which brings me to your #3. If you put black mollies in you could see diseases break out with those fish.
2.). If your CBB is eating well, the trick I did with frozen was 1 or 2 slices of frozen clams mixed with more mysis shrimp. And make that all he can eat. How many times are you feeding him per day in your QT?
3.) The mollies are awesome and are still in my DT today. Basically you purchase freshwater mollies from any Big Box pet store. Then drip acclimate them for 3 hours. I buy 6 knowing I will lose 1-3 in the acclimation from fresh to salt. Once in your tank they also help your CBB learn to compete for food without being in your DT.
4.) I would go 60 days if you haven’t treated with any medicine yet. I would however add this black mollies now before starting your 60
Day timer. I’m sure 45 would work but if you aren’t in a hurry you could really fatten him up and get him used to the foods you want him eating!

 

[ReefHog]

Hi Greg,
I’m not an expert by any means but my CBB is still doing wonderful in my DT and eats frozen mysis & LRS now. I will answer your questions with what I did to succeed.
1.) Prazipro is important because of eliminating flukes which is something you do not want in DT. I did not use COPPER which brings me to your #3. If you put black mollies in you could see diseases break out with those fish.
2.). If your CBB is eating well, the trick I did with frozen was 1 or 2 slices of frozen clams mixed with more mysis shrimp. And make that all he can eat. How many times are you feeding him per day in your QT?
3.) The mollies are awesome and are still in my DT today. Basically you purchase freshwater mollies from any Big Box pet store. Then drip acclimate them for 3 hours. I buy 6 knowing I will lose 1-3 in the acclimation from fresh to salt. Once in your tank they also help your CBB learn to compete for food without being in your DT.
4.) I would go 60 days if you haven’t treated with any medicine yet. I would however add this black mollies now before starting your 60
Day timer. I’m sure 45 would work but if you aren’t in a hurry you could really fatten him up and get him used to the foods you want him eating!

Well said. I don’t think 60 days is necessary. If there are parasites in even a small quantity, the mollies should hit on them rather quickly. I typically do 30 days with mollies and treat with prazi pro in that time. I’ve had one “fail” with prophylactic treatment in about 15 fish and the molly hit on the velvet within a week. I use 20 gallons for QT and my CBB and Moorish Idol I QTd with him were getting noticeably stressed in the smaller tank. The CBB started pacing the glass after the second or third week. If the fish seem happy and healthy, I suppose 60 days couldn’t hurt but 30 should be just fine. And you want to use black mollies. Disease show very easily on the solid black velvet bodies.

 

[Quiverfull]

Hi Greg,
I’m not an expert by any means but my CBB is still doing wonderful in my DT and eats frozen mysis & LRS now. I will answer your questions with what I did to succeed.
1.) Prazipro is important because of eliminating flukes which is something you do not want in DT. I did not use COPPER which brings me to your #3. If you put black mollies in you could see diseases break out with those fish.
2.). If your CBB is eating well, the trick I did with frozen was 1 or 2 slices of frozen clams mixed with more mysis shrimp. And make that all he can eat. How many times are you feeding him per day in your QT?
3.) The mollies are awesome and are still in my DT today. Basically you purchase freshwater mollies from any Big Box pet store. Then drip acclimate them for 3 hours. I buy 6 knowing I will lose 1-3 in the acclimation from fresh to salt. Once in your tank they also help your CBB learn to compete for food without being in your DT.
4.) I would go 60 days if you haven’t treated with any medicine yet. I would however add this black mollies now before starting your 60
Day timer. I’m sure 45 would work but if you aren’t in a hurry you could really fatten him up and get him used to the foods you want him eating!

Thanks for getting back to me. Here are my responses:
1. He has been in QT since November 27 (black friday purchase) and is in with a strawberry pseudochromis I bought at the same time so he does have some competition for food but seems to win those battles easily. He loves black worms and will eat as many as I put in, almost immediately. He is also eating fresh clams - I shuck one fresh that he will pick on and whatever he does not finish, I take out and freeze. I shave frozen clam which he will take directly from the forceps I use to hold the slices. He refuses any packaged frozen foods (reef frenzy, PE frozen mysis, etc.). What method are you using to feed - free floating or in some type of device?
2. I feed him off and on over several hours when I get home in the evenings - about once an hours over about 3 hours.
3. I will look for a few mollies this weekend and try to put some in. If the mollies do not hit after 30 days, would you feel comfortable at that time?
4. I am not opposed to treating with either prazipro or copper but I was not sure if this would stress him out too much. Should I do both at same time? Which would you start/prioritize?

 

[Quiverfull]

Well said. I don’t think 60 days is necessary. If there are parasites in even a small quantity, the mollies should hit on them rather quickly. I typically do 30 days with mollies and treat with prazi pro in that time. I’ve had one “fail” with prophylactic treatment in about 15 fish and the molly hit on the velvet within a week. I use 20 gallons for QT and my CBB and Moorish Idol I QTd with him were getting noticeably stressed in the smaller tank. The CBB started pacing the glass after the second or third week. If the fish seem happy and healthy, I suppose 60 days couldn’t hurt but 30 should be just fine. And you want to use black mollies. Disease show very easily on the solid black velvet bodies.

Thanks for the info. I am going to look for the black mollies this weekend. What is your method to acclimate them to salt water?

Greg

 

[EakTheFreak]

Thanks for getting back to me. Here are my responses:
1. He has been in QT since November 27 (black friday purchase) and is in with a strawberry pseudochromis I bought at the same time so he does have some competition for food but seems to win those battles easily. He loves black worms and will eat as many as I put in, almost immediately. He is also eating fresh clams - I shuck one fresh that he will pick on and whatever he does not finish, I take out and freeze. I shave frozen clam which he will take directly from the forceps I use to hold the slices. He refuses any packaged frozen foods (reef frenzy, PE frozen mysis, etc.). What method are you using to feed - free floating or in some type of device?
2. I feed him off and on over several hours when I get home in the evenings - about once an hours over about 3 hours.
3. I will look for a few mollies this weekend and try to put some in. If the mollies do not hit after 30 days, would you feel comfortable at that time?
4. I am not opposed to treating with either prazipro or copper but I was not sure if this would stress him out too much. Should I do both at same time? Which would you start/prioritize?

1.) I free floated the food and started with the pump off & then gradually added it on to encourage him to chase the food
3.) Yes, I would feel comfortable with 30 days for the black mollies.
4.) I would definitely hit him with Prazipro ASAP. I did that after mine had ate for 3 days straight. You don’t want him having flukes. Does the first batch then 5 days later do 25% water change and hit 2nd dose. 5 days after that water change and add carbon to absorb anything left.
• if you are doing the mollies you do not need to do copper. I did tons of research and that’s just my thought.

 

[ReefHog]

Copper and prazipro can both be appetite suppressants. I use black mollies after prophylactic treatment but they can certainly be used without treatment. Just know that if the mollies were to show signs of something, they will not be able to be used again for this purpose and will then have to be treated with copper, H202 TTM, etc along with the CBB. Also when purchasing the mollies, make sure they are in fresh water. Some pet stores keep them in brackish or even saltwater. They can't be used for this purpose if that is the case. I use this tool for my second treatment with prazi pro. http://www.marineparasites.com/paratreatmentcal.html