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The 1600gph Hygger Mini Wavemaker. Seems to work perfectly at 100% random flow.
Same hereTemp acclimate, dip, drop!
You can check out the link in that comment for more detail but I use 1-gallon bucket and drip acclimate it to the tank water it's going into. Usually doubling the amount of water over 15-30 minutes.What does ‘acclimate to QT/DT’ entail?
This sounds great. Curious on adding CUC to the sump, do you leave a light on a timer for them to see what is going on? Have you created a lid on top so they don't crawl / climb out and end up in a skimmer or return pump?I buy coral regardless of what's on it within reason. Avoiding pest infection is a losing game past initial dips. However I have added the following to my sump based on diet and efficiency specifically to clean algae or pest covered frags:
10 thin stripe hermits
2 Mexican Turbo Snails
1 Dwarf Decorator crab
200 dwarf cerith
??? Dwarf Planaxis
5 Blue Legs
4 - 5 nerites
4 Astraea
Within 24 hours this crew is sufficient to remove long strand GHA off of a large Bisma Worm rock of porites entirely and with no damage to the worms or coral. Smaller frags of sps were cleaned entirely within 3-4 hours.
That is what perplexes me. What is the logic in drip acclimating to new saltwater, and then just dropping straight into a harsh chemical dip. I feel like this is a something that people don’t really consider. Besides the fact that drip acclimation completely misunderstands coral physiology/the way corals take in water/respirate, taking the time and care to drip acclimate and then plopping them in a chemical dip is just really confusing.You can check out the link in that comment for more detail but I use 1-gallon bucket and drip acclimate it to the tank water it's going into. Usually doubling the amount of water over 15-30 minutes.
That is what perplexes me. What is the logic in drip acclimating to new saltwater, and then just dropping straight into a harsh chemical dip. I feel like this is a something that people don’t really consider. Besides the fact that drip acclimation completely misunderstands coral physiology/the way corals take in water/respirate, taking the time and care to drip acclimate and then plopping them in a chemical dip is just really confusing.
It has been shown that getting a coral into flowing water so it can respirate helps it to acclimate to new conditions far better than drip acclimation. I recommend to temp acclimate (and really only if the temp is more than a couple degrees off), dip/rinse, and put into flowing water (whether DT or QT). I promise you, you will see corals looking happy and extended far sooner than with drip acclimation.
This is what I do. I research & make sure I’m using the right stuff & if what it is should be dipped or not.Temp acclimate, dip, drop!
I would go display to fish then coral assuming the display is ick and velvet pest free.Have a question :
in the process of setting up the main system and also 2 QT for corals and fish.
I want to have the auto water change to flow through both QTs from the main display and then overflow to drain.
What would be the optimum option ?
1 - from DT -> QT1 and QT2 in parallel
2 - from DT -> fish QT -> coral QT -> drain
(the option of DT -> Coral QT -> fish QT -> drain , is not a good idea I believe)