Quarentine Tank Questions

[SilverCityReef]

So I thought I had this all figured out but after viewing some forums on another site, I'm questioning if I do or not.

I'm working on setting up a QT for new fish. My LFS immediately puts new fish out for sale and all tanks are dosed with Prazipro. My QT setup currently consists of 2 sponge filters, a HOB filter w/o carbon, heater, basic light, pvc elbows & tee, air pump, & powerhead.

My main display is a 40 breeder and I don't plan on having or adding more than 2 fish at a time in QT. I figured I would cycle QT with Bio-Spira and hope bacteria builds on bio-filtration insert in HOB and the sponge filters.

I will take advice on anything so please feel free to offer any you may have.

• Is this a proper and adequate setup for fish QT?
• Should I keep copper or Prazi in system at all times? Replacing sponges, adding carbon, and or 100% water change in between switching meds if necessary.
• Live/Dry Rock is not recommended due to medications correct?

I understand everyone has a different way of doing things but there must be some sort of common ground when it comes to the subject. I won't mention the other site I was reading forums on but the advice being given was opposite of everything I have learned from multiple sources. I have had trouble finding good, dumbed down information regarding QT's but I felt I had a good grasp on it...

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[EmdeReef]

Sounds like a good setup for quarantine.

I wouldn’t keep meds in non stop, after you add fish you can begin medicating or read below QT methods. 100% water changes are better to remove copper IME than trying absorbers especially since you have a smaller QT.

No live rock, if you want you can use seachem matrix.

Below are good resources for more info by our experts @Humblefish @HotRocks @Brew12

Good luck!

https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/beginners-guide-to-acclimation-and-quarantine.299/

https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/how-to-quarantine.232/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-current-qt-process.483371/

 

[Brew12]

y LFS immediately puts new fish out for sale and all tanks are dosed with Prazipro.

Just so you know, this likely isn't doing any good. Aquariums will build up a biofilm that can quickly break down Prazi. If they don't sterilize those tanks periodically to reduce this film I feel there is a good chance that the Prazi isn't in the water long enough to do any good.

As for how to treat fish there are a lot of different opinions and options depending on your final goals. Some information is also a little older and fish disease issues have changed over time.

A few things to keep in mind, from my perspective.

When treating with copper:

• Hanna copper checker is the only accurate way I know of to measure it. I consider it a must have item now.
• If you can transfer the fish to a clean system you can treat in copper for as little as 8 days. Be careful of cross contamination.
• If you cannot transfer the fish, you need to treat them in copper for at least 30 days before removing the copper from the system.

There are a few more nasty issues that have become more common than a year or two ago. Urenoma being one of them. If using coppersafe or copper power, I would have copper at 1ppm with General Cure in it prior to even adding the fish. If using Cupramine, I would have it at 0.1ppm when I add the fish. This shouldn't cause problems if everything is well aerated.

If stringy white poo persists for more than 2 or 3 days after receipt I add GC and Kaneplex to food using Focus as a binder.

Hope that helps rather than just confusing things further.

 

[SilverCityReef]

Just so you know, this likely isn't doing any good. Aquariums will build up a biofilm that can quickly break down Prazi. If they don't sterilize those tanks periodically to reduce this film I feel there is a good chance that the Prazi isn't in the water long enough to do any good.

As for how to treat fish there are a lot of different opinions and options depending on your final goals. Some information is also a little older and fish disease issues have changed over time.

A few things to keep in mind, from my perspective.

When treating with copper:

• Hanna copper checker is the only accurate way I know of to measure it. I consider it a must have item now.
• If you can transfer the fish to a clean system you can treat in copper for as little as 8 days. Be careful of cross contamination.
• If you cannot transfer the fish, you need to treat them in copper for at least 30 days before removing the copper from the system.

There are a few more nasty issues that have become more common than a year or two ago. Urenoma being one of them. If using coppersafe or copper power, I would have copper at 1ppm with General Cure in it prior to even adding the fish. If using Cupramine, I would have it at 0.1ppm when I add the fish. This shouldn't cause problems if everything is well aerated.

If stringy white poo persists for more than 2 or 3 days after receipt I add GC and Kaneplex to food using Focus as a binder.

Hope that helps rather than just confusing things further.

All information is helpful, even when confusing at first. Based off what you and @EmdeReef have said, I should only add medications if the fish become sick? Or should I keep copper in system at all times? I have heard of people doing this but what happens if I need to treat for something else? Aren't there bad medication combinations?

Looks like I have a lot more reading to do... QT setup is just waiting on me to paint back glass and for my LFS to get more Bio-Spira on Tuesday. I would like to have it up and running by then if possible so it can cycle and I can get some fish in there by next month.

 

[Dom]

IMO, QT is a mandatory step in this hobby. Not all hobbyists feel this way.

I've read so many posts about members with catastrophic results due to inadequate QT practices. And in some instances, the QT step has been completely eliminated. So I am thrilled that you are exhibiting the patience to QT your inhabitants. In the long run, this will save you a lot of grief and money!

My personal practice has always been to place my new inhabitants in an QT without any medications. Observe and then treat only when symptoms present. The down side here is that it can be too late by the time symptoms present. But I'd rather lose the fish in QT, rather than nuke my entire DT!

I never rush to add my inhabitants to the DT. My QT time is 90 days, longer than most people deem necessary.

 

[SilverCityReef]

IMO, QT is a mandatory step in this hobby. Not all hobbyists feel this way.

I've read so many posts about members with catastrophic results due to inadequate QT practices. And in some instances, the QT step has been completely eliminated. So I am thrilled that you are exhibiting the patience to QT your inhabitants. In the long run, this will save you a lot of grief and money!

My personal practice has always been to place my new inhabitants in an QT without any medications. Observe and then treat only when symptoms present. The down side here is that it can be too late by the time symptoms present. But I'd rather lose the fish in QT, rather than nuke my entire DT!

I never rush to add my inhabitants to the DT. My QT time is 90 days, longer than most people deem necessary.

I agree 100% that quarantining is a mandatory step and have no idea why people choose to risk nuking their main display vs waiting a month or two. As of right now, my main display is $2000 and over 5 months of my time... That's not something I want to risk losing over being impatient. I have also seen a lot of posts regarding major tank crashes, unwanted pests, and quite a few of people leaving the hobby due to their lack of following the recommended proper procedure. I dont want anything to push me away from the hobby. I am planning to build a coral QT as well after this QT is up and running, but that will be another thread.

Personally, I would rather not introduce medications unless I have to as I know depending on what needs to be treated at that time, I will likely have to replace sponge filters. As for time frame, I have heard a minimum of 4 weeks after final treatment & signs of illness. So if new fish in in QT for 2 weeks, gets sick and needs 2 weeks of meds, it would end up being in QT for 8 weeks, along with any other fish that may have been in QT at same time.

I hate to say it, but if I'm being honest, after a long and expensive 5 months getting my DT up and running, I don't think I have the patience to do a 90 day quarantine. I am planning to do at least 30 days but I will try to push for 45+ just to be safe. Right now 45 days seems like a long time, but in 30 days, another 15 wont sound so bad lol.

 

[Brew12]

All information is helpful, even when confusing at first. Based off what you and @EmdeReef have said, I should only add medications if the fish become sick? Or should I keep copper in system at all times? I have heard of people doing this but what happens if I need to treat for something else? Aren't there bad medication combinations?

Looks like I have a lot more reading to do... QT setup is just waiting on me to paint back glass and for my LFS to get more Bio-Spira on Tuesday. I would like to have it up and running by then if possible so it can cycle and I can get some fish in there by next month.

You do need to worry about mixing some meds. What I have laid out is about the most aggressive treatment I feel comfortable with. As long as you have well oxygenated water you should be fine.
Nothing goes in my tank without being treated with copper or CP. Now, because of some newer common problems, I treat everything with Metroplex also. Since General Cure has both Metro and Prazi, I feel well covered using it. The risk of asymptomatic fish acting like a typhoid Mary is something I can't tolerate.

 

[Dom]

Personally, I would rather not introduce medications unless I have to as I know depending on what needs to be treated at that time, I will likely have to replace sponge filters. As for time frame, I have heard a minimum of 4 weeks after final treatment & signs of illness. So if new fish in in QT for 2 weeks, gets sick and needs 2 weeks of meds, it would end up being in QT for 8 weeks, along with any other fish that may have been in QT at same time.

Correct. Once symptoms present and you've treated, the QT clock needs to be reset.