Question Mogul vs DE bulbs

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I currently have (2) 250w DE metal halides running on a dual electronic ballast on my 75 gallon. I am going to a 220 and will add a third light. I am upgrading reflectors and will get another electronic ballast. My question is this; What is the difference if any between mogul and DE bulbs given the same brand, temp and running on the same electronic ballast? I wasn't sure if I should stay with DE or make the move to mogul being as I hate the sockets of DE bulbs. Any input would be greatly appreciated...:bigsmile:

Should I stay (DE) or should I go (mogul)? This indecision's bugging me...... Sorry couldn't resist the Clash reference...:tongue:
 
i read that the DE bulbs were a little brighter, but i dont know if there is any truth to that. i'm planning on switching to mogul based for the same reason you mentioned in the very near future.
 
Other things being equal, DE's tend to have slightly more PAR than mogul bulbs, but the sockets are less than ideal and they require a shield, whereas with mogul bulbs the glass of the bulb is the shield.
HTH,
Mariner
 
Other things being equal, DE's tend to have slightly more PAR than mogul bulbs, but the sockets are less than ideal and they require a shield, whereas with mogul bulbs the glass of the bulb is the shield.
HTH,
Mariner


Thanks, that was one of the factors I was wondering. I thought I read that somewhere about the par but now can't remember.
 
Besides the fact that I can't stand the DE sockets they are also very limited to lamp choices compared to the mass SE lamp selection on the market.
 
I'm runningg 250 DE at the moment but if I had a choice I would go SE the reason more light bulb options.
 
I am running 400s on my 300 that is 30" deep. With the Reeflux 12Ks I am getting enough par to keep SPS 6" off the bottom. That is with SE bulbs. You might get away with DE punching down that low but if you go SE, you might want to step up to 400s.
 
I am running 400s on my 300 that is 30" deep. With the Reeflux 12Ks I am getting enough par to keep SPS 6" off the bottom. That is with SE bulbs. You might get away with DE punching down that low but if you go SE, you might want to step up to 400s.

Is there really that much of a difference in par? If so I may stay with the DE then. I wanted to avoid going the 400 route. Although when I set up the 220 I planned on keeping only lps on the bottom so SE still may be an option.

Thanks
 
why not get 400w dimmable ballasts? so that you can try out the 250w SE and if you think you need stronger lighting, you can switch to 400w SE by just changing bulbs and keeping the same ballast.
 
why not get 400w dimmable ballasts? so that you can try out the 250w SE and if you think you need stronger lighting, you can switch to 400w SE by just changing bulbs and keeping the same ballast.


I thought about that too. I already have one dual 250w electronic ballast. I guess from most of the tanks I had seen, I was pretty confident I could get away with (3) 250's to light the tank. hmmm, decisions, decisions.
 
if you do decide going SE bulbs, choose your ballast depending on the bulbs you want to use. I have read that certain ballasts run certain bulbs better such as the 20k Radiums run best and efficient on M80 ballasts whereas Reeflux 12k bulbs run better on a different ballast (forgot whether it was electronic or magnetic)
 
the deal between de. and single is...
de= better par in one condensed area than a single end..
single end = a little less par but way more coverage and better imo...
my tank on one side is 24 and then it drops to 36" deep on the other and i have a full sps reef with corals in the sand and not a single problem with it....
im running 250w xm10k's with vho actinics...the colors are great and growth is insane...;)
i have some sps at 34" depth of water and actually like 45" from the bulbs and there doing great..
hth....
 
the deal between de. and single is...
de= better par in one condensed area than a single end..
single end = a little less par but way more coverage and better imo...

That's actually another myth. Spend some time here:Manhattan Reefs - Sanjay's Lighting Guide

If you do a little research you would find that the xm10k single ended bulb puts out about 20% more par than a DE. You would also see that there is a huge difference in color temp., 7100 for the DE and 11000 for the SE.They key is in the reflectors. Some spread the light better over a larger area, some "beam" the light better in a smaller area. I'd get SE's just for the fact that the socket will also be compatible with 175's and 400's and you won't have to worry about breaking those de bulbs..
 
the deal between de. and single is...
de= better par in one condensed area than a single end..
single end = a little less par but way more coverage and better imo...

That's actually another myth. Spend some time here:Manhattan Reefs - Sanjay's Lighting Guide

If you do a little research you would find that the xm10k single ended bulb puts out about 20% more par than a DE. You would also see that there is a huge difference in color temp., 7100 for the DE and 11000 for the SE.They key is in the reflectors. Some spread the light better over a larger area, some "beam" the light better in a smaller area. I'd get SE's just for the fact that the socket will also be compatible with 175's and 400's and you won't have to worry about breaking those de bulbs..
thats if you over drive them with a probe start mag ballast which i do...
many bulbs wont even fire with these ballast thats why there so cheap..lol
radiums, phoneix etc. all need a pulse start ballast weather it be mag. or electric...
i have studied sanjays work for some time...
alot of it does come into play with reflectors like you mentioned thats why i personally use single ended bulbs with lumenarcs so i have a wide spread... i only run 2 bulbs on a 60wide tank and the coverage is great....
 

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