Rainbow Splice Care Tips

Ook Sag · May 9, 2020

I recently got a really nice frag of Rainbow Splice millepora. When I got it there wasn't any distinct polyp extension. It has been about a week since adding the splice to my tank, I am wondering how long it can take for millepora's in particular to acclimate to a new setup.

I've read it can take between 2 weeks and a month. So far I think I have only seen progress but I really don't want to kill this piece as it was not cheap.

I have a full mixed reef, with various "easy" acros doing well such as bonsaii (seen in picture with splice), green slimer, and a basic green mille. My zoas grow like weeds, but I don't think they are the best indicator for SPS.

My lighting is a hybrid of 2 T5 true blues and 3 Ai primes (2 primes are HD, 1 is the new 16 HD).

Coral is in center of my tank probs 12 inches below lights, id say flow is on the stronger side if I put an air hose next to the pumps bubbles shoot all over quickly. PAR is between 250-300.

I test Alk every day and its between 8.0 and 8.7 I manually dose at noon to get it back to 8.7.
Mg is 1370
CA is 440
Nitrates 15 (could probably be lowered)
Phosphates max out my Hanna ULN which i think is 2.5ppm so its definitely double or triple that if my nitrates are as high as they are.

In the picture you can barely see the polyps poking out, they look to be darker then the rest of the acro.

Anyone have any care tips to maximize the potential of milleporas?

Epic Aquaculture · May 9, 2020

You need to get that phosphate down big time. It should be around .04-.08. Who did you get your Rainbow Splice from?

Ook Sag · May 9, 2020

SawCJack00 said:
You need to get that phosphate down big time. It should be around .04-.08. Who did you get your Rainbow Splice from?

Thanks for the input, definitely going to work to drop phosphates. I got my Frag from a local reefer in San Diego. He purchased the frag initially from Dan at TCK corals awhile ago. The frag is almost 2 years old. But only a week or so old to me.

Epic Aquaculture · May 9, 2020

Ook Sag said:
Thanks for the input, definitely going to work to drop phosphates. I got my Frag from a local reefer in San Diego. He purchased the frag initially from Dan at TCK corals awhile ago. The frag is almost 2 years old. But only a week or so old to me.

Gocha. It's a pretty tough coral, so it can withstand a lot, but I would definitely get that PO4 down.

Jason sun · May 24, 2020

Manually dose Alk is not good bro. That means everyday your alk drops about 0.7 and suddenly in the middle of the day raises another 0.7 when you dose. Super super unstable. Since you already spent that much on a coral, why not spend some money on gears. Get a cal reactor or at least a doser.

Phosphate also way too high.
Splice is tough and fast growing. I got 2 tiny nubs last Oct. right now almost both are fraggable.

Joedubyk · May 24, 2020

A lot of the great SPS vendors use higher nitrate 15-25 for color, you're fine there.. Otherwise, just maintain stability and make sure it gets enough fish poop + proper flow. My corals LOVE a good water change w/ good clean water. Don't move it around either, just put it in a spot and leave it.

Oh and for PE, SPS love phytoplankton. Some say they can't eat it, and maybe they don't, but maybe they eat the waste of it? Either way, I dose 5ml per 20g of phyto every day and all my SPS have better PE because of it.

Its never a great idea to start changing things, especially with a 2k frag. But I would start auto dosing as well....

The easy corals like the red planet and slimer aren't the best indicators because they are almost indestructible.

Jason sun · May 24, 2020

Also nitrate can be a little bit higher but phosphate is not.

Ook Sag · May 26, 2020

Thanks for all the advice. I got a GHL Doser 2.1 and have begun dosing through that. So far my alk has been much more stable between 8.5 and 8.8. I have also been doing weekly 10 gallon water changes, while also siphoning sand, which is a little over 15% water volume. The PE has been much better I even see new polyps sprouting from the top.

My Phosphate is still maxing out my Hanna ULN checker. So hopefully in the next week or so I will get that down to within readable levels. Debating on if RowaPhos would be worth to bring phosphates down faster then through water changes alone.

Pdash · May 26, 2020

Ook Sag said:
Thanks for all the advice. I got a GHL Doser 2.1 and have begun dosing through that. So far my alk has been much more stable between 8.5 and 8.8. I have also been doing weekly 10 gallon water changes, while also siphoning sand, which is a little over 15% water volume. The PE has been much better I even see new polyps sprouting from the top.

My Phosphate is still maxing out my Hanna ULN checker. So hopefully in the next week or so I will get that down to within readable levels. Debating on if RowaPhos would be worth to bring phosphates down faster then through water changes alone.

At levels that high rowaphos isn't advisable you will use too much trying to lower it. You should probably use lanthanum chloride, and take it VERY slow. I'd shoot for .08 - .15 but don't reach those numbers for like 2 months. You will need to dose lanthanum enough to lower your level by say .05 ppm, then test the next day then re dose etc. It will almost certainly take a lot of time to get it down as there is almost certainly tons of phosphate bound up in your rock and sand. Siphoning your sand won't really help much with phosphate reduction. Also, do your own research my suggestions aren't the end all be all. Glad to see it looking better.

Ewok1 · May 26, 2020

Jason sun said:
Manually dose Alk is not good bro. That means everyday your alk drops about 0.7 and suddenly in the middle of the day raises another 0.7 when you dose. Super super unstable. Since you already spent that much on a coral, why not spend some money on gears. Get a cal reactor or at least a doser.

Phosphate also way too high.
Splice is tough and fast growing. I got 2 tiny nubs last Oct. right now almost both are fraggable.

you selling frags?

Jason sun · May 26, 2020

Ewok1 said:
you selling frags?

Will cut 3-4 frags pretty soon and release on my website for mid year sale.

Ewok1 · May 26, 2020

Jason sun said:
Will cut 3-4 frags pretty soon and release on my website for mid year sale.

You’re website?

Jason sun · May 26, 2020

Ewok1 said:
You’re website?

Jokercorals.com
Sorry for advertising in OP’s thread.

Epic Aquaculture · May 26, 2020

Be careful as you lower that PO4. slow and steady is best!

joseserrano · May 26, 2020

I suggest you ask your friend about what his care level tips are, it was obviously doing well there. Wast levels and guidance there has so many more layers then what is talked about.

coralbeauties · May 28, 2020

Pdash said:
At levels that high rowaphos isn't advisable you will use too much trying to lower it. You should probably use lanthanum chloride, and take it VERY slow. I'd shoot for .08 - .15 but don't reach those numbers for like 2 months. You will need to dose lanthanum enough to lower your level by say .05 ppm, then test the next day then re dose etc. It will almost certainly take a lot of time to get it down as there is almost certainly tons of phosphate bound up in your rock and sand. Siphoning your sand won't really help much with phosphate reduction. Also, do your own research my suggestions aren't the end all be all. Glad to see it looking better.

I fully agree with using lanthanum. I fought phos for years and saved an incredible amount of money. I lowered mine faster then @Pdash but you do need to take it slow or you can cause stn in your tank.
Jeff

Ook Sag · Jul 2, 2020

PO4 is down to 2.4PPM still high but way lower than it was. Everything including the splice seems to be much happier as PO4 has gone down. Here are a couple update pictures! Much more polyp extension and more polyps coming in near the tips of each branch. Hoping that will continue for future frags!